What everyone else has said, plus... When I have the figure pretty much there, I turn on the IK all around, then grab the hip and yank it around a bit. A couple of scale inches does it, no need to get extreme. I do that from a couple or three different viewing angles. Playing with the rotate dials in all three planes also helps, again just a bit. The object is to get rid of any zero settings or symmetry that may be left after the main posing work and get some randomness into it. The difference before and after is small but the after is a lot more natural looking. The advice about tweaking face morphs is key. Again, it doesn't have to be a lot, just enough to get rid of the default mannequin zombie look. When turning the head, tilt it a bit as well. Spread the turn and tilt across the head and both neck parts -- that's why the Vickie neck has two parts. If the head turn is more than five or (at most) ten degrees, turn and tilt the chest and shoulders as well. The farther from dead ahead, the farther down the chain of body parts you need to do that. Likewise for most other motions -- the farther a hand reaches out, the more body parts reach along with it. Like, "the knee bone's connected to the..." When reaching, move one or more opposite side limb(s) the other way to balance. The advice about shifting body parts off the vertical center line applies even when the pose is meant to look centered and symmetrical. Half a scale inch here and three degrees there makes a big difference towards realism. For a soldier standing at attention, make that an eighth of an inch here and one degree there, but make it something other than zero. Do the rotate dial in each of the three planes for the part. Pose yourself and notice that the farther you depart from the default Poser pose the more you have to work at staying there. The figure should reflect that. Best of all the advice in this thread: pose yourself first and FEEL the pose, don't just look at it.