If the "Joystick" model is what I'm thinking of - unless you have a tripod mount on your lens to rotate the camera to vertical, it really makes it difficult to shoot verticals with that particular head. Of course, I'm thinking back some 10 years about Bogen's "Joystick" head. (Didn't Bogen and Manfrotto merge - or are the same - or something? My memory is slipping). I did think of a few additional things about what to look for in a tripod - at least for nature photography: 1: The heavier - the better. Often I'm shooting at shutter speeds of 15 sec or longer, and I need a platform that is stable as can be - something a wind will not shift. Yeah - it's a pain to lug the sucker into the field (get a set of Tri-Pads - cushions that wrap the tripod legs (or wrap them in pipe insulation). This makes it much easier to carry across your shoulder - and the wrapping keeps you from freezing your hands on the metal when shooting in the cold. Heavy does come in handy in the field at times - I've used mine to pole-vault streams! 2: I needed a tripod that has no center braces extending from the leg to the center column. i needed one that allowed spreading the legs out to enable low-level composition - and center braces won't allow that (at least, not to the degree that I required). 3: The main reason (other than stability) to have a tripod that comes to eye-level without center column extension is to allow the tripod to get low without the center column getting in the way. Bogen (on their, at that time, 3020) had a split column. I cut the top section to the quick and drilled new holes (also filed down the stops on the legs to where it would go just about flat). That way, when I needed center column extension, I could add on a section of center column and be set. 4: A healthy quick release. Bogen offers several types of quick releases - but I prefer the large, hexagon plate. It grips tightly into place, is stout enough when mounted on the tripod to be stable, and is quick to get the camera off the tripod for "hand-held composition". The verdict is still out whether the rubber or the cork is better. the cork seems to be more secure (when it's new) - once it gets some age on it, you gotta scuff it up some or the camera is going to slip around. (Got so bad I had to modify my plates with a piece of metal that fit the rear of my camera body to keep it from slipping). the rubber ones seem a bit to "spongy" - never really felt secure to me. 5: Just for grins and giggles - I bought a Benbo tripod. If you want to get into weird positions, get super low on a subject (I've actually dug holes in the dirt to get the lens right on the ground) - this is the tripod for you. It's a bit weird - has one "securing" screw that clamps the whole thing down. When it's loose, it's a lot like an unfolding lawn chair (keep your hand on the camera when you release this thing - 'cause everything goes like a limp noodle when you loosen it) - but you can get into positions with this tripod that you simply can't get into with any other tripod on the market. It has the usual three legs, and a center column that is about as long as the legs - with it's own release allowing it to slide. on the center column, one side has a standard 1/4" screw - the other has a 3/8" screw - so you can mount about any head available on one side or the other - or mount two separate heads on it. It's a little weird to describe - and I couldn't find the manufacturers site - but here's a review: http://www.photographyreview.com/pscTripods/Tripods/Benbo,Tripods,1,%E2%80%9CStandard%E2%80%9D/PRD_84598_3114crx.aspx Just another few cents worth.