actually 16 dpi is equalivant to 1 lpi if you want all 256 tone levels present. http://art.sdsu.edu/courses/art240/lessons/raster%20graphics/scanning/scan.htm http://www.google.com/search?q=print+rule+of+16+lpi+halftone&hl=en&safe=off http://www.renderosity.com/messages.ez?ForumID=12356&Form.ShowMessage=151511&Reply=151618#8 You want a 'pixels per inch' resolution of the printer's lpi times 1.5 . The printer's dpi (dots per inch) will be 16 times it's lpi for optimum performance. A home inkjet obvioulsy lacks that level of dpi. So it fakes a higher lpi by sacrificing what it hopes to be non visible transitions and non visible losses in lpi. Done through a series of algorythms which your printer manufacturer will try and market to you as 'True Color' or 'PhotoReal' or whatever other snappy name they come up with for it.

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