Make a separate material or group for each of the four sides of the arch, just so you can work on them separately. Make a cylindrical map of the arch. The axis of the cylinder should be at the centre of the full circle of which your arch is an arc. You will now have your inner side coinciding on the map with your outer side and the two window face sides will be mapped as zero thickness lines either side of the polygons of the inner and outer surfaces. Next, select the inner surface material/group and translate it to one side. If all of your vertices are welded This will strech out the two window face sides as well as moving the inner surface off the outer surface. Then you can select the face sides one at a time and move them off to where you can work on them. The rest should be obvious from there. OTOH, if your corner vertices are not welded, the face sides won't be stretched out when you move the inner side and that's going to make life difficult. There are three ways to handle it that I know. You can weld them and then split them again later on. You can just planar map the sides and then slowly and tediously move the vertices to match where they are on the inner and outer sides or you can morph the whole thing in poser so that the inner side is wider than the outer side and the cylindrical map will give the face sides more than zero thickness, then morph it back after you've mapped. I've use all three methods on occasion. I'd recommend the first one as being the easiest in this case. As to how they're built in real life, there are two common methods. One involves steaming the boards and bending them into shape, which is hard and only works for thin boards. The more common method is to build the arc out of a number of smaller arcs, each of which is cut from a wide flat board. You often see that method on wooden cart wheels and on spinning wheels. You might be able to find some photos of spinning wheels where you can see the grain pattern and the shape of the joints.

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