Well, I'm a photographer and I still use my old nikon F2 (1972). Nikon made a lens (no longer available) which was 55mm 1.2. This was meant to be close to the human eye, (reputedly between 55mm and 58mm). On the larger format 6x7 Mamiya, I use a 180mm for most things. That's equivalent to about 80mm on the nikon. My lenses are 24mm - for restricted spaces or wide-angle effects 35mm - room-sized interiors 55mm - most full-length or partially cropped body shots 105mm - all portraits and upper-body shots Of course, rules are meant to be broken, so the above is not a hard and fast guide. I often do portraits or full-body shots with the 24mm lens to get more dramatic effects. For portaits, anything from 80 - 120mm is considered 'correct'. The real rest is to use the Face camera and do a series of renders at different focal lengths, then compare them. Keep the framing as similar as possible in each render and go from 20mm - 500mm. You'll see that as the focal length gets longer, the perspective is flattened. So a head shot at 20mm will show a pronounced nose and distorted facial features, whereas at 500mm, the face will be flattened considerably. mac PS Dean - glad to help. It was a major PITA for me too until someone told me that one.