Er.. the easiest way is to start with a planar map (not split in front and back) then select the sleeves and assign a new material to them (I hope this is possible in the free version too, but I think so) and then map them and afterwards incverse the selection and map the rest of it cylindrically. I'm afraid I'm not good at explaining. I am better "hands on" when I have to teach anyone anything :o(

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You just can't put the words "Poserites" and "happy" in the same sentence - didn't you know that? LaurieA
  Using Poser since 2002. Currently at Version 11.1 - Win 10.