When the tomb of Eleonora Di Toledo, who died in 1562 of Malaria, was opened and examined in 1857, it was discovered that while of the body only a skeleton remained, the gown was still remarkably intact considering the fact that in it, the body had decayed.

On location, the gown was described as an 'off-white heavy satin gown, with brownish velvet guards (trims) which had heavy golden and silver embroideries'.

Later in the museum where the gown was brought and remains until today, closer examination showed that the gown had changed its color over the centuries in the tomb - originally, this had been a sage green silk duchesse gown with black guards and golden embroideries. Interesting enough, it is also witness to the fact that the tomb had been robbed shortly after the funeral - the body was turned backside up (probably to see if there was any jewelry under her body). This is why unlike other gowns from tombs, the bottom side remained almost intact while the front side of the gown was destroyed by the decaying body (bodies always decay to the ground side). Of the front, only fragments of the embroidered guards remained - but in a fashion that they still revealed the original shape of the garment.

The gown shows some typical characteristics of a late, italian renaissance gown - the wide, trained skirt, which was not yet split in the front; the low neckline, the tight sleeves which were paned and laced up to the bodice.

However, due to the 'not-yet-front-split-skirt" this must have been an older garment which was definitely not just created for the burial - it is assumed that this must have been one of Eleonora's favourite gowns from older times.

The gown was examined in Italy by Janet Arnold, a well-known historical costumer.
A pattern for this gown, taken from the actual garment, as well as a much longer synopsis on its history, can be found in her book "Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women C1560-1620", which I consider to be one of the most valuable sources when it comes to study historic costuming.

Message edited on: 10/21/2004 11:29