That looks more like it :-) OK, the joint editor is the hardest part of this process. For each body part, there's a series of steps you need to go through. You only need to do them for one side of the body. Then you can mirror them to the other side using symmetry under the figure menu. Select a body part and try moving it. Twist it and see how it goes then set twist back to 0 and try side-side (the dials are probably labelled xrot, yrot and zrot in your figure - it doesn't matter what they're called). Then try bending it. If there are no problems you can see then move on to the next body part. If you see a problem, then what is it? Does it look like the joint centre is in the wrong place? If so, select center in the top dropdown of the joint editor window and then take a look at where the axes are drawn. You can move them around by making small adjustments to the three numbers under the "Center Point" heading. These are the x, y and z coordinates of the joint centre. Once you have it where you want it, try the dials again. Does one of the rotation dials cause a problem? Is it the twist dial? Select twist from the dropdown at the top of the joint editor. Now you can see a white line with a green end and a red end. This line controls how the body part twists. Try moving the red and green ends around and see whether you can fix the problem. Sometimes it may be caused by the orientation of the axes back at the joint centre and you may have to go back to the joint centre and use the three rotation dials at the bottom of the joint editor to adjust the orientation of the local joint axes. You want the twist axis to be as close as possible to the direction a real bone in the body part would have. Is it the bend or side-side dial? These two work pretty much the same way so fixing them is done the same way. Choose the dial in the dropdown at the top of the joint editor. You'll see two green lines and two red lines. You can move these lines around by grabbing their ends and dragging them. Anything between the green lines moves when the joint moves. Anything between the red lines stays still. The area between the green and red is called the falloff zone and things in there are partially moved depending on how close they are to the green zone or the red zone. The closer they are to the green zone, the more movement they get. Adjusting the zones by dragging the lines may fix your problem. Try setting the dial to a place where the problem happens and then move the lines until it goes away. Sometime you can't fix the problem using the standard falloff zones and you need to use spherical falloff zones. On Mike 3 you'll see them used on pretty much everything from the thighs to the collars and also on the bases of the fingers. Spherical falloff uses a red sphere and a green sphere. Everything inside the green sphere gets moved by the joint. Everything between the green and the red gets partly moved. The closer it is to the red, the less it gets moved. Setting these up takes quite a lot of mucking about. You adjust the spheres by selecting them and rotating, scaling and translating just like normal props. Test your joint movement once you think the spheres are in the right place and then adjust them as necessary. Check how Mike is set up to compare. You can have Mike and the hobbit in the workspace at the same time and the joint editor will show you the settings for whichever body part of whichever figure you have selected. Be aware that Poser can crash while you're doing this, so save your file frequently. Once you're done, save the hobbit back to the library.

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