I agree with Dagfari about the monitor brightness. It's one of the biggest problems I see here - many of the images are so dark you can't discern details or see much of the image. Part of the problem could be either not very good monitors - like my wife's - or the use of LCD monitors with limited gamut. Google monitor calibration and the thing you will see most often is to run your contrast way up and your brightness at 20-50%. This prevents the colors from being washed out and helps the monitor do black properly. It will also make your monitor last a LOT longer, which saves $$ you'll need - to buy gas for your car! lol Maybe your camera is using a different color gamut than your fractal/image editing program. Be careful using a laser printer as your reference - I believe they use the "cmyk" color gamuts/"workspace" - which is more washed out and less vibrant - rather than the "adobergb1982"(sic) gamut of commercial, Durst-Lambda types. Everything I ever printed on the laser printer here at work required me to lower the brightness by 10%, bump the gamma down a notch and raise the contrast 2% with MS PhotoEditor to come close to what I saw on my monitor. There is a big disconnect between what a monitor shows and what prints out (it's why the pro's use Mac instead of Windows PC's, I think) and many times a lot of post tweaking is needed to get them right. It's called "WYSINWYG" - or "what you see is not what you get" - in the printing biz. Print houses know this and that may be why some have cheap print prices but charge $75 per 15 minutes for any tweaks needed, or have $100 "setup" charges. Good luck - make sure to document what you needed to get them looking right so you can reproduce the process on the next image. c-ya! Rick