As I have stated, I am very, very far from being "quotable" in the use of studio lights..but for a simple try go for a meter that does this: Measures reflected light:Point the meter at the subject, this is where the "spot" metering comes into play, using various size metering "spots" to measure the light. Different size spot reading adapters are often options. Incident light: This is the light hitting the subject, measured with the little pingpong ball looking dome. Hold it at the subject and measure light striking the subject, such as a flash or hot light. Flash Meter: Generally Incident light but the meter allows you to get that quick reading while firing the lights from the meter with a sync cord or wireless. You can set the film(or digital)ISO speed into the meter and take a reading. The meter will show what it considers a correct exposure for that ISO and either speed or aperture you select. That is the simple of it. Reading lights on both sides gives you an idea of the amount of light on each side. There are charts to see on the net showing how that works out to "light ratios", for flat, more distinct and dramatic lighting with strong shadow on one side, for instance. An incident reading toward the camera will give an average reading to take the shot, using manual on the camera. The most basic functions are what I have used. The a few test shots tell me how to adjust one way or the other. How far away the lights are make a big difference in exposure, as the meter will show you. I think if the meter has too many bells and whistles, well for me, I will likely not even use those whistles and only use the bells once in a while! : ) This is less than one sheet of paper printed out..and is about the extent of my knowledge. I do know the meter is not hard to use going for simple settings. Once you get a feel for the settings needed, you might be shooting alot at the same settings anyway.