I think you're coming up with some really nice variations on your original theme.  I still like the fluting of the cloth on the first attempt you posted too, just the overall shape of the bell was a bit to spherical.  I'm sure you're on the right track and I look forward to future versions - and depending on what you end up with, you might find a place for it on the marketplace here, there are tons and tons of tight, slinky dresses but almost no hoop skirt formal gowns or period wear.  I think all the gown shapes you've put forth have potential.

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