mrsparky opened this issue on Mar 26, 2007 · 23 posts
mrsparky posted Thu, 29 March 2007 at 5:43 PM
From reading the posts here and having the quickest of plays tonight before killing the batterys.
For texures like brick or wood:
6M F with CDD-RAW. sharpness set to normal or hard.
Anything furry:
.JPG 6F or 6N even 3. Setting sharpness to normal or soft seems best.
People: I generally don't photograph people very oftem, I prefer to draw them. THough I'd guess .JPG 6N or 3 and soft sharpness. Unless you are trying to get a good level of constrast, hard shadows or texture on the skin. Then 6F and RAW.
File Sizes:
RAF/RAW 13.9mb compared to 829k (3m).
File Viewer:
It's a pile of cr*p - way too slow.
time vs. quality vs. cost* T
hats true. For landscapes I'd reckon it's not a major issue, but action shots like aircraft where you catch a lot of dead skys, it's a issue. Time to buy more memory cards and Nicads.
I've always copied files onto my computers via a USB card reader - just goes faster, dunno why.* With the Fuji 405 - there wasn't much difference, but with my first 1.3mb Fuji using a floppy smartmedia adapter was quicker than the serial lead.
Is this from connecting the camera directly to the computer?*
Yep. Though not all the time. I suspect this more down to the viewer software and windows.
Using the reader is quick and simple enough. I'll be re-sampling and possibly postworking in other apps anyway. For postworking I'd seriously recommend this piece of freeware:
OptikVerves Virtual Photographer filter.
Overall the important bit is going to be having fun with it, - I've not used anything close to an SLR since I got a City & Guilds in Photography years ago. Back then photography was expensive and sometimes risky.
Once I spilt some chemicals in a corner of my rented upstairs flat and didn't notice until the landlords girlfriend started screaming - the mix had reacted with something and it gave the illusion the walls where bleeding! !