What about turning on normals forward in the material room? It's at the bottom of the poser surface node. Do it for each material zone of the dress.

"It is good to see ourselves as others see us. Try as we may, we are never
able to know ourselves fully as we are, especially the evil side of us.
This we can do only if we are not angry with our critics but will take in good
heart whatever they might have to say." - Ghandi