Mike, I've done a LOT of print work, mostly with Bryce and Photoshop, but the concepts are the same. As you know the print world operates off of subtractive color space, meaning the less color there is, the brighter and closer to white it becomes. A monitor is additive, so as color is added, it becomes closer to white. Typically, additive devices use RGB color space because the gamut, or color range, is so huge. It's just about as close as you can get to the visual range. Obviously monitors use this principle very easily, because they are constructing colors using light. With printing, CMYK is most often used (Cyan, magenta, yellow, black). When you take an image and convert it to CMYK, say in Photoshop, it's often a disappointing result, but this is how it more often "used to be done." Typically, the best thing to do nowadays is send the RGB file to the printer and let it sort it out. The printer will do a better job than photoshop, in most cases, at getting better gamut ranges out of your work. However, this sometimes doesn't work. I've had a few images with extreme gamut ranges in sky -- particularly in the blue family. Because this is CMYK's weakest link, so to speak, the image after it was printed had severe banding, or obvious changes in color as opposed to smooth transitions. I've had tremendous luck with Iris prints. They are typically expensive, but gorgeous. For my own use, I have an Epson 3000 and seriously, aside from the slightly smaller print size, I can't tell the difference from the Iris unless I'm up real close. The only other thing is rendering at that resolution. The pixels that Varian gave you are totally correct, but as you know your render time will likely be absurd. If you need to resample, of course Photoshop and the like can do bicubic resampling without a problem and get good results. But I've been using Genuine Fractals, and the results are amazing... basically it allows some really amazing results... http://www.genuinefractals.com Finally, 300 DPI is a good number to start with. But it does depend on the output device, and what it's capable of. To a degree, it largly depends on the type of paper you use. Here's a nifty article on that: http://www.techcolor.com/help/linescreen.html The typical rule of thumb has always been: take the linescreen, and go from 1.5x to 2x that in DPI. So for 150 linescreen, you should think about 300 DPI. Anyway, I've babbled here long enough, just thought I'd give some feedback! -Brian