Lets see if I have understood you correctly. You want to have an option to exclude a material from the morph and automatically create a separate morph for that material that will morph it in some as yet undefined way? And this should work for all and every conceivable situation.

How were you thinking of defining the new morph?

I'm a great believer in the KISS principle. I dummied up some clothing to very closely resemble what you have and tried each of my suggestions. Of each of the results I'm guessing that if you ran over the lower two buttons using the Poser morphing tool set to smooth you would save yourself a lot of time and trouble.

I set the tools radius such that it encompassed the entire button and the magnitude very low so that it was easy to control.

I could be wrong of course.

Or we could go back to addressing why your morph exploded. Did you try it again using the "Attempt vertex correction" option?

If you are able and would like to send me the files I'll be happy to look at them here. Then I would be able to see exactly what you see rather than the (quite reasonable) approximation that I quickly put together.