Hello all,

had some fun with stereoscopic rendering, Vue is amazing with this. Details comes to life!

For those intrested, this will get you started:

I used  red/cyan plastic  toy glasses from a DVD.

A tutorial got me started:  teenabiz.de/tutorial_2.htm

Here is the free software ( Also suitable for other programs, glasses or even movie) Check this out, lots of usefull free stuff!  stereo.jpn.org/eng/index.html

I have a demo picture in the gallery : www.renderosity.com/mod/gallery/index.php
and another on one here: i48.tinypic.com/33uqpza.jpg

Try it!  Its fun and beautifull.

Thanx for info,
i got really interested in this after my photogrammetry lessons at uni...gotta try it out :)

Mighty Kind of you Cherryman!!!

 No problem, its not my invention! ;-)

If you create something, please do share, would like to see and learn. 

I do think however with the upcoming of 3D TV, etc  that embedding it in youre designs and learning is a good thing.

Fortunatly i always trie to make my scenes without any postwork or trick shots, whenever i can i try to built te whole scene, even the parts not seen, I esthablish the rendershot later. 

I like the stereo effect 

Here is another try, i experimented with mirrors, glasses etc.  had some nice effect with drops on glass.  

This one is with iceflowers in front a nice effect on the mirror. 

www.renderosity.com/mod/gallery/index.php

For those who want to compare ; this is the right channel source picture. As you can see, some colors dissapear. Red seems to be dificult. Although i have seen some good colors on the internet, so more to tweak and learn.

My 3D Glasses do not do good with the internet scenes. I rented a movie called "Coroline" and it had a 3D Movie on the second side of the DVD. It came with 4 pairs of 3D Glasses and they do not do very well. I went to one of the sites you provided above and I can see the red and the green and they do not mix together as they should, even full screen and with all the lights off!!! I do however like your scene, but I can not see it in 3D as I should!!!

Thelby,

Not sure, why you can't see it. I do know that trhere are also other colorshemes in use. Maybe you're glasses are a different color ?  Your glasses should be exactly the same color as the colors used in the picture.  When you close one eye you should only see the opposite color. Does that works for you?

I do noticed that for me it sometimes takes a while fot my eyes to find the focus.  Sometimes you have to "look around" inside the picture and suddenly you're eys (and brains) make the connection and the 3d effect pops up.  Sometimes changing the viewing distance also works. Maybe that helps.

You could try the software and make one yourself , the software allowes many different colors, then you can test it youself..

I recently tried stereo imaging with some good success and discovered some ways to do it in photoshop in 1-2 clicks.

www.renderosity.com/mod/gallery/index.php

how i did it was quite simple i set the camera (poser, though the same can be done with vue.) to point at the girls hips, face would have been fine for a straight angle or isometric angle.
I took the left eye shot then moved the camera .700 to the right to approximate the distance between a humans eyes. then shot the right eye render.

open photoshop and open the left eye render first then open the right eye render and paste it to a layer on top of the left eye render. Here was the trick since my 3d glasses had green(left) and cyan(right) I turned off the green channel on the top layer (right eye layer). that was all i had to do...
since i had the camera pointing to the subject I did not need to realign any of the layers. and because I use both a right and left eye render the differences in the image were where they needed to be.

an important note to think about is the type of glasses, if the glasses used are left red and right blue then you will want to turn off the red channel on the top layer. for the image to work with your glasses. for those with such glasses turn them upside down to view the example.

Wow, Nice 3D FX saithan. That worked for me Very Well !!! I am going to copy paist your instructions for further study!!!!! I wll post something here in a couple of days.

here is another try done with vue7

I've been making 3D Lenticular and Flip images for quite some time now. Remember those small pictures you found inside your cornflakes box that changed their appearence or even played a short animation when viewd from a different angle? These are flip pictures. The transparent plastic sheet on top of it is called a lenticular sheet and is made of hundreds of small lenses that break the light as it travels through them. If you use those lines of lenses horizontally you can create flip images. But if you use them vertically you can create amazing 3D pictures with them. For those 3D pictures you don't just need two images, you often need 20 or more, so it's a very time consuming process, but well worth the effort.

There's special software available for a variety of 3D manufacturing purposes. The most important one is the software that divides your different pictures into tiny stripes that fit under the lenticular lenses. If you want to know more I suggest you take a look at www.3dphotopro.com , as I did. I own all the software and also buy my lenticular sheets there. I have yet to try Vue with lenticular images, because imagine the time it'd take to render 20 different camera positions from your scene. Not exactly something you do on a daily basis.

One thing that most people that experiment with stereopic images do not know is that you need a focal point (!) in your image.

saithan, I know your pictures were aligned through the camera in Poser. There's a difference if you align your pictures while rendering or if you align them in postwork. With the first method the camera is "circling" your focal point which is more unnatural than just moving the camera to the right without keeping your camera pointed at your subject, because or eyes don't circle things in the real life. The latter method also allows later on to design the 3D effect the way you want. So I hope you don't mind me taking your picture as an example what you'd need to do if you didn't align them while rendering :-)

When our eyes look at something in the real world they don't just look at the scene in a parallel fashion. Our eyes are fixed on one single point. If we didn't do that our eyes would be cross-eyed all the time. Consequently you get headaches when you look for a longer period of time at a lenticular or stereoscopic image without a focal point. You might even see ghost images or double images through your glasses, because the images for the left and right eye are parallel and not focused.

So what you need to do is the following:

1. Create both your images for the left and right eye. You need to experiment to determine the amount of difference in camera position that works for your particular scene. If it is too small you will barely notice anything. If it's too big you might get a "dollhouse" or "miniature" effect so that things that are only a few inches or centimetres away from each other in the picture appear to be miles apart when viewed through 3D glasses. It takes a bit of guesswork for each scene, but you'll get used to it. The difference between the left and the right image is called a "parallax" and is often expressed in percentage of the picture's width.

2. Once you have your rendered images ready open your favourite image editing application and load the picture for the left eye. Load your picture for the right eye and paste it in as a new layer on top of the left eye picture. Set the opacity to 50% or something similar so that you can see both images at the sime time.

3. Zoom in and choose one point in the image that is supposed to be at the same position in both images. For the above image a good detail would be the chain near the woman's hips. Now you need to align the top image (right eye) with the bottom image (left eye) so that there is no "double picture effect" on the chain, or almost none. The chains from both images need to match as closely as possible.

4. Proceed as saithan explained to colour your images for both the left and the right eye.

By choosing a focal point your image

• gets sharper

• is more comfortable to look at with 3D glasses

• won't produce so many noticeable side effects such as ghost images

• can be influenced in its 3D effect

By choosing the chain as our focal point we determined the 3D "planes" (foreground, middle plane and background) for our image. The focal point is always the "zero" point, meaning that it has zero depth and and lies on the default depth plane such as a 2D image. Everything that is behind the chain in the picture, e.g. the trousers behind the chain, will go into the monitor's depth (= background plane). Everything that is in front of the trousers in the scene will pop out of the monitor (= foreground plane), e.g. the girl's chest and breasts.

Great info Daniel.

I use the free software over here:  stereo.jpn.org/eng/index.html (Also for batch and movie processing! )

As for the camera and focus, i have made my default start scene equipped with stereo camera's.  Now when i move the  main camera around, the left and right eye automtically follows. Only be carefull when changing "focal" .

I will link this file as a .txt, maybe someone find it usefull, i connected two extra cams to the main camera, a few cm apart and with a 6 degree difference.

This way i am able to work as normal and with the switch of the camera instantly produce a left and right view from my main viewpoint.

As for youre 20 renders problem.  Try this:

Just take one camera, aim it at you desired focal point and set in the animations tab : Track > (choosen object)  , you can hide this object if you want.

Now turn on animation and make the animation path of the camera move from the left eye to the right eye position.  (Due to the track function you're focal will stay correct! ) 

Now you can render the animation with single file output and you will have as many "frames" as you wish with one push of the button!

(You could save this camera setup maybe as an animated VOB so you can load it in any old scene as well)

Rob

Change the .TXT into .VUE

Rob, thanks for the nice idea with the camera setup. I used something similar when I experimented a bit in Vue.

The problem with creating those 20 renders for lenticular images is not how to get those 20 views the easiest way, but the render times. The quality of your lenticular image depends on a lot of factors, such as your printer's physical resolution (DPI), the lenticular sheet's resolution (LPI = lenses per inch on the sheet), your picture's aspect ratio and resolution and so on. There are special formulas on how to determine the amount of views that suits your printer and your lenticular sheet, and ideally you should get full values (10, 11, 12,...20,21 etc.) and not something like 3.768  That means your LPI, printer DPI and picture DPI values should be divisible through each other. Not an easy task.

In other words: You need to render each of your 20 (or whatever) views in resolutions of two megapixels or more. A lenticular sheet pixelates your image additionally, so strong antialiasing in the render settings is definitely a must if you don't want to produce a three dimensional Roman mosaic of your scene ;-).

Also, the parallax between each image has to be absolutely the same with zero tolerance. With keyframe animation the camera's position is interpolated between the first and the last frame, so you can't make sure that the camera get's moved equally from one frame to the other. You have to do this by hand.

Besides, if you use the "track" option when animating your camera circles your tracked object when you move it around. This is indeed one way to create a 3D picture of your scene, but as I explained above this limits your flexibility a lot since your 3D effect is determined while rendering and you can't try out different scene depths in postwork. The effect is also not as natural as you'd like.  The circling method is the so called "Convergence" 3D shooting, the other one is simply "parallel" 3D shooting.

Daniel, i'm only a week into this stereo thing, but is see great future! ;-) 

I'm still learning and experimenting with focal, pop out effects etc..  I have seen some quite remarkable effects with it!

This fellow has some good quality and amazing effects:  It's a photo, but what can be photographed can be rendered! ;-) Watch how he has the ground comes out towards you:

Here is his website: www.alpes-stereo.com/i_index.html

Maybe not for pro's like Daniel, but for the starters it is a handy tool.  ;-)

Easy to use:

1. Open attached file *
2. Dou you're normal scene building
3. With the main camera pick a nice point of view
4. Select the "focal point " sphere and place it at youre focal point
5. Swich to left cam , render, switch to richt cam render.

• Ofcourse you can also Merge this file with an excisting scene, but then you have to be remind:

• You get two main camera's  Its confusing , but it works
• Delete the new ground plane and sun.

I made a little color comparisation chart for those with glasses but not sure of the colors.

while i am new to trying this experiment in digital art i'm in no way new to the workings I do own a stereo tripod for my two nikons. in photography we adjust the distance according to the lenses but standard 18-55mm the cameras are spaced 2-4 inches apart.

saithan, I know your pictures were aligned through the camera in Poser. There's a difference if you align your pictures while rendering or if you align them in postwork. With the first method the camera is "circling" your focal point which is more unnatural than just moving the camera to the right without keeping your camera pointed at your subject, because or eyes don't circle things in the real life. The latter method also allows later on to design the 3D effect the way you want. So I hope you don't mind me taking your picture as an example what you'd need to do if you didn't align them while rendering :-)

I understood that and hence if you use the dolly control instead of obit, your camera only moves in straignt lines.

if you are not seeing the effect it it possible that your glasses are oposite color sets which I mentioned. try turning your glasses upside down. I used the glasses that came with coraline 3d which are green ion the left and cayan on the right. for the images cherryman posted I do have to turn mine the oposite to get the effects.

i do not mind you using my image as example this is a forum and we discuss things here it is cool this makes us all get better learning from eachother. use guys here are using glasses which are more inline with the "standard".  I recognized this issue with Thelby me and him/her are using the same glasses. 

everything you said is dead on to what I learned in the experiment. especially the focal (key thing).

oo, i want to add to your excellent post. that objects in front of the focal will appear to pop out of the image (if not extreamly in the foreground)

oops i realized you mentioned that already. I wanted to mention that the second image i posted i use vue 7 to render (I have not figured out How to get a good global radiosity with poser). I did have to align the layers. the focal point was a spot behind her near the window. more experimenting will find better focal point ideas. like any art or photography it seems like another factor to add to getting the right composition.

Saithan, so it seems you have even another color scheme? How many are there?

Well indeed the focal point is someting to get mastered,  here i tried the Cerro Verde screen delivered with Vue.  The result is quite nice:

I have no idea how many there are , i know that coraline and my bloody valentine 3d blu-rays are the same. while spykids 3d and a few others using something different.

the image you just posted looks really good. works fine in my glasses.

Yall keep talking, cause I am taking notes ;^D

I tried some quick and dirty Vue stereo 3d movie with youtube, strangely enough youtube seems to change the left and right color...    So i uploaded two vids..   one with the color swatched.

Youtube (As not many people know) has a built in 3D stereo player and converter. Just select under my video (on youtube) youre type of glasses.   If you are seeing double, stop drinking or select the inversed one.

www.youtube.com/watch   Original

www.youtube.com/watch  Inversed

Another study for the stereo effect.
In case someone wonders, it's a tunnel of ice. (No postwork)

Color version (click to enlarge)

BW version (click to enlarge)

I like those the effect is very pronounced.

So, the thread is dead, huh'? How about we kick-start it again? Well...

Found a simple (VERY simple) way to convert two renders/photos into an anaglyphic image. Should I write a tutorial on it?

Cheers,

Thomas

A spot please write the tutorial. 

Also how do you change txt to vue..I tried rename and that didnt work.  Thank you.

Tutorial written and uploaded - just waiting for approval...

A spot thanks please keep me advised.

Sure will .. !

I wonder when it'll be up?

A spot

Is your tutorial up yet?

It's uploaded, but not up 'n running yet. Still waiting for approval.

I wonder when they'll check it...

Tutorial up and running!

It's posted under Photoshop ...

Thanks.