IIRC, the outer ring of the Light meter measures specular lighting, which you can see is black in your image post.  To introduce that specular lighting, create another light with the Diffuse chip black and the Specular chip white.  This new light will not increase your overall lighting for the scene.  Of course, I am assuming you are still using IDL for these renders.  The costume is beginning to look correct under these conditions, but her skin still does not look realistic enough.  You did mention that you use the new Post-240 BB introduced at RDNA, right?