Okay, using an older Leather shader that BB made and using the SSS macro, I've got this. The problem, I realized, with this coat, is that it unrealistically has no buttons or button holes.

"A lonely climber walks a tightrope to where dreams are born and never die!" - Billy Thorpe, song: Edge of Madness, album: East of Eden's Gate

Weapons of choice:

Poser Pro 2012, SR2, Paintshop Pro 8