BB has a sequin shader at his freebie site, IIRC, that you could play around with for the rhinestone effect...maybe with a mask and a blender node?

As for silk, I always use anisotropic combined with a bit of a weave bump. For brocade, I tend to use masks and blender nodes to get the effect of the different parts of the fabric. For lighter silks, like a charmeuse, just a faint bump texture and some transparency with the anisotropic...maybe an edge blend?

Iunno. I've never actually been able to get it to work to my satisfaction, but it's at least a starting point?

花 | 美 | 花美 | 花火 
...It's a pun.