Part of what bugs me about most poser "pleated" skirts are that they are not pleated. At all. There are ridges and valleys that suggest the lighting of a pleated skirt, but it's just a gesture toward pleating.

A knife pleat like Lohan's skirt consists of 3 layers: the layer you see facing it, the back facing fold, and then the forward facing fold underneath that flows into the next facing fabric. 

Dynamic cloth runs into a problem with this because of the one-sided nature of the cloth. If it's in too close a proximity to itself, even self-collisions won't prevent an intersection when two "wrong sides" touch. 

花 | 美 | 花美 | 花火 
...It's a pun.