A couple points: The auto came out and at first they used the same trails as wagons or streets in towns just like the horse and buggies, in fact most had the same type of wheels as wagons. It took many years before there were paved roads as we know them, although many very busy streets were covered in bricks not for the autos but to prevent grooving by wagons during the wet seasons.

As far as depth, doing simple Depth of Field blurring shows the effect of separation. Currently I am watching Moulin Rouge and part of the effects are exaggerated camera speed and depth of field. Even on my old TV you can see the separation of objects making some appear to be standing apart from the rest of the scene, much like the View Masters of old. Part of what makes cell phone cameras so plain is that everything is in focus mostly due to the fact the optics are so small and close to the sensor, they really can't produce much if any DoF. A couple of years ago there was a camera that could take 1,000,000 x 1,000,000 pixel pictures, it took up a small van in size, but could take a single picture and you can zoom in on the details and make out the writing on a pile of lumber sitting on the dock across the bay 20 miles away. So in effect it is the same as a cell phone high detail but no depth.

So given what most people are use to when looking at a cellphone camera something that shows DoF and blur will be appear to be magic, but really no different then what is available with an old fashion camera with all the control for aperture and film speed etc. So given that they are not calling it 3D or Holographic, and given what was discussed on the video on YouTube in the link provided by 3D-Mobster, it is still stereoscopic photography with some neat tricks.

As far as Poser is concerned or any other program for that matter the biggest issues you will need to take in account is scale and distance. You just need to make a scene and render a picture then move the camera the proper amount in the X direction and render again. Make sure not to have the camera set to point at something as this will effect the pixel offset. The factors off the top of my head you need to be concerned with are picture dimensions, lens offset and angle of view for the lens. The angle of view varies by lens type, on a 35MM camera the angle of a 18MM lens is much wider then for a 105MM. The first one is easy to setup as you just copy whatever the native value is for the camera. The second one should also be easy as it fixed by the physical camera specs. The last one is where you are going to have to experment a little as a given angle of view will completely fill the frame (but not exceed it) with a given width object a set distance from the camera. The last thing is the render needs to have NO Depth of Field, as that is what the camera produces itself two flat pictures that are processed inside to give the illusion of depth it gives.

Poser 5, 6, 7, 8, Poser Pro 9 (2012), 10 (2014), 11, 12, 13