Robert_Ripley opened this issue on Sep 13, 2014 ยท 46 posts
mrsparky posted Wed, 04 November 2020 at 5:39 AM
I use a Da Vinci Mini Maker, cost around 100 quid few years back. It's a basic PLA 3d printer, annoyingly with a "lock" so you can only use their brand of filament. So what have I learnt ?
Licences: are you "really" going to pay extra to print because that's what a company says? Some folks might, maybe if you're printing 100's of cute figures or want print ready. Equally some will happily pay $24.99 for a unauthorised hi-res print-ready model of Groot.
So I guess the real answer here is conscience versus cost.
Fixing the mesh: Most of the time the printers software auto-fix option works fine.
Failing that use some modelling software or the (free) meshlab to fix it.
Smoothing: Remember any application of filler, paint or sanding will remove detail. With ABS printers you can try acetone, but that doesn't work on PLA. So...
Model filler and loads of sandpaper. Cheap & easyish but takes ages to do. A dremel like tool helps here.
Smoothing products like Smooth On or XTC3d. Stupidly expensive so not tried. Some folks suggest using polyurethane varnish instead, but you can't easily paint over varnish.
3d smoothing pens, these are like USB soldering irons, but come with special tips. Especially the bowl shaped one. Personally struggled with mine, good for cleaning up supports, not so good for overall smoothing.
But I'd say with practice and time they do work. Some folks suggest using those $10-15 kids 3d pens, but not tried those.
Acrylic car primers (not cellulose) either the yellow filler primer or the grey primer. Not used an airbrush, just rattle cans, but like all spraying loads of light coats are the key.
Best results so far have been using several layers of nail varnish base coat (the pink stuff from pound/dollar stores) then a spray of grey car primer. Paint the model with standard modellers acrylics, then apply a clear gloss or matt of protective nail varnish.
Size: Yep it matters. I've tried printing at 1/76 and 1/35 scale and it just doesn't work with this printer. So if you want an army of neeked Victoria's for your next game of Warhammer, buy a resin printer.
Though anything over 10-15cm is usually good enough.
Duplicating Prints: Forget it, 3d printing is slow and expensive. Instead get some RTV Silicone Moulding Rubber, make some moulds from your prints and cast using 2 part fast-cast resin. This way also allows you to cast using Metal Powders mixed with the resin, to get that silver look.
Mindset: Just because you can 3d print something, ask the question should I ? For example, if you want a wooden plinth for your figure, why not use real wood. It's not just cheaper, but solving these small modelling challenges will make you a better creative.