Attached Link: http://www.normankoren.com/Tutorials/MTF.html

Thanks for the links. I'm in some other yahoo groups, and they can be useful. I did some quick surfing this morning, and found one really good tutorial at: http://www.normankoren.com/Tutorials/MTF.html I'm somewhat surprised by the lack of mathematics out on the web, but I suspect when one starts throwing in really non-linear stuff like dye clouds difusion, (or worse, the physiology of vision, or psychology of perception), the math falls apart anyway. I think everyone above is basically in the right direction. The 1440dpi for Epson, or 300dpi for dye-sub printers, are physical constants having to do with the mechanics of the printers. In Michelle's original post, I'd leave everything the same if the image was being printed on a 300dpi dye-sub. Most of the services use dye-subs, so that is why one sees "300" used a lot. If the image was going to a 1440dpi Epson, everywhere Michelle uses "300", I would change to "240", but this is really picking nits. In actual practice, the interpolations in PShop and the drivers work pretty well, so one may not really see any significant difference. In Michelle's #3 post, camera resolution and printer resolution are definitely different things. For a printer like the Epson, you want the printer dpi set higher (about 6X), the camera resolution. I'll need to think about the claim of "wasting ink" by going higher than 6X; I waste a lot more ink in more easily explained muck-ups. [BTW Michelle, I've sent the wineglass tutorial to Alpha, so we'll see what happens. Wine may help more than aspirin.]