I'll second Arachnaphillia. It's great for hand coding. Colors your code so it's easy to see if you miss something.

Front Page 2000 is a huge pain in the butt. It's ok for learning but if you do use a WYSIWYG editor, use it to learn html. Hand coding is the best way to go.

And don't be afraid to peek at source codes. I'm against stealing code but if you want to learn how tables are set up there isn't a thing wrong with it.

My source code looks inaccessible but it's there and you're welcome to look at it. (just scroll down) Sources will give you ideas on what meta tags you might want to use, etc.

...... Kendra