This one quickly done.

Attached Link: New Excerpt - Composition Tutorial

Just to inform you that I've uploaded a new excerpt of my (future) tutorial : here ( pdf file <300 Ko)
note: this excerpt  is not yet "coherent". Its purposes is only to show the general layout of the tutorial.

So I will divide each "chapter" into 2 parts.

The first part will be a brief explanation of a specific composition rule. (theory with a touch of how to use it in real life) and the second one will be a "clear" example of the rule involved in the first part with some advices.

Each chapter will available as a separate pdf file for easier "manipulations".

As soon as possible, I will upload my table of content. And as always feedback is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for support and reading.

Peace.

Aegy

Attached Link: Updated excerpt

I've spent more than 15 years in a Fine-Art School. I've started "mastering" photography about 4 years ago. And I find useful to give some basic notes about composition because it easily improves the impact of a picture. And also, it gives a way "to think". Think, compose and shoot.

Of course, I don't want to go too deep into explanations because a lot of rules of composition can't be directly applied to photography (due to the lack of time and the need to "shoot" at the right moment too). I want to give a useful tool (and not only for the members here and I must confess that  I will use it as a reminder too, for my personal use.). A tool that will help you to make the good decisions.  (In case of emergency, break the glass).

And as I've already said, I will essentially give advices concerning portrait/glamour photography (first, perhaps later I will enlarge the subject to other styles of photography).

Up to now, a PDF document of 2 pages can be downloaded, the first page is about theory and the second page shows an "live" example.

Feedback is welcome.

Thanks,

Aegy

First  thanks for your reply.

Of course, I will show ( using some of my previous pictures ) how I use the "rules" before I take the picture. I will try to give some good explanations about  " how to compose your image in your camera viewfinder " because, again, theory without good practice is useless.

I will try to make short  chapters so you can use them as references "on the fly".
A short explanation, one or two examples and some "tips".

Peace.

Aegy

Hello,

Well, that is one of the worst subjects in photography.  Because nobody has the "final" answer.
Optical theory (optics to be short)  will say that each time you add an element to a lens the "quality" is affected. Light has a "longer" way to follow. That's pure logic.

But it depends more than on your way to work and on the conditions where the lens will be used. (I won't speak here of the polarizer filter or gradient filters who are designed for specific situations)

Now one question is : is it really necessary to put a $20 UV Filter on a  lens ? :)
I'm using "pro" lenses ($1000-$2000) with "pro" UV Filters $100-$200 HOYA Pro Filter and B+W. (they're are quite expensive because of the big diameter of the lens) and my production come from 80% from studio work (except a stiletto high heeled shoe flying in my direction, no real treat there).

If you want to repair the front lens in case of scratching or break, it cots between $250-$300. So make the count ... a friend of mine once said. The only problem is that : if lens would be scratched or worst broken ... I couldn't use it for weeks waiting for the repair. So it costs time and finally money.

The only thing, I can tell you always be careful with your lenses,  adding a uv filter by safety has some sense but it degrades  the quality of your lens. But again in 80% of time you won't notice the quality loss. ( if you put a "cheap" filter on a expensive lens = nonsense and the inverse is also true ). I know that's not THE answer with THE solution but I hope it will help you to make your own choice.

The only thing that is sure (for me) always put the hood on your lens  it is one the first-aid moves for your lens and be careful but not be scared.

Aegy.

I must ask you a question :

-Will you shoot in medium/large format in digital ? (using digital backs I mean because they cost more money than a decent strobes kit )

Hello,

The best advice I can give choose studio flashes (strobes) (with modelling lights). Digital photography can be very tricky (e.g. white balance , dynamic range, ...). Okay it costs a lot, but see it as a long term investment . You can choose self contained units ( costing less 2 or 3 is a good starts and manufacturers sell ready-to-use kits with light modellers and so on ) or a power unit with flash heads ( more flexible but more expensive ).

One of the best manufacturer (quality/price) is Hensel. (Hensel Website) also a good flashmeter will be needed (Sekonic 358 to start) for tricky light situations. You can trigger your flash with a infrared trigger or better a radio based system all you need is flash head grip/socket on your camera or you can even use sync cable but it requires a sync socket but that doesn't very comfortable (cable being always where it mustn't)

But again it may be look expensive at first look but studio photography is "expensive" but better to buy a light system who will help you during years than spending money on stuff/manufacturer who will disappear in 2 or 3 years.

Hope it will help you.

Peace.

Aegy

Hello,

From my own experience, I only use my light meter for studio works.
Light meters shows you basically what is the best aperture for a certain ISO and Speed configuration. ex : f./8 @  100 iso 1/125th. You choose the ISO and speed settings ( some very basic light meters the ISO and speed settings can't be selected)

Of course light meters can be used "outside", but imagine what the nightmare it is you have to go near the object you want to photography point the light meter in the direction where you want to take the picture. Go back to that point adjust your camera settings and shoot .... and damn! Those clouds have moved during the light controlling. Some light meters have spot metering system so you haven't to move near the subject but those ones are very "expensive".

In short terms, light meters are only useful where you have a certain control on the light sources and/or the subject.

I don't know what is your camera.  But normally you have a semi-automatic mode when you push the shutter button the 1st time the camera will calculate the best exposure/speed ( it's called a pose meter ) and after you can adjust by yourself the exposure and speed.

So what is the solution in your specific case ? Testing testing and testing again take some notes and when you've got for a certain situation a "good" picture analyses the parameters.

There's something I don't understand very well, do you check the histogram display when you are reviewing  your pictures on the LCD ? Understanding what the histogram ( luminosity ) means and shows could be very useful on your case.  But again keep in mind that the histogram (and the LCD)  are  only there to show you the general trend of the final picture. They help you to take a good picture but they don't make a good picture.

Hope it will help you.

Aegy

Attached Link: http://www.aegipan.net

The answer is quite simple.  It is the easiest and less expensive way to share your pictures with people.
I have a "real" portfolio book with fine-art prints of my pictures and just adding a picture in it (you know with that *$$!# protection sheet) equals a year of my web hosting fees, so ...
And it's a "big" book not easy to handle.
And the pleasure to show your website on your tiny mobile phone screen has no price. :)
So now my "nice" portfolio book is only catching dust instead of attention.

More seriously, having a website now is like having a nice front window on the street a few years ago. And for my kind of job (glamour photography) anonymous contacts (and questions) are easier with a email from a contact form than in the "reality" of a shop.

When I give my business card, the first look goes to  the website and email addresses.
But of course, there's a little touch of vanity inside but that is an another debate.

Only my 2 cents....

Peace.

Aegy

Attached Link: http://francoisquinqua.blog.lemonde.fr/2006/09/26/2006_09_araki_charleroi/

There was a promotional panel that showed a picture. You can see it here ( warning contains nudity ) francoisquinqua.blog.lemonde.fr/2006/09/26/2006_09_araki_charleroi/
Sorry the article is in French. To be short, someone has thrown 2 Molotov cocktails to the panel. And as  you can see, it's more that a guy losing her pants here.

I'm more shocked by the fact that someone has thrown 2 bombs at the panel than by the picture itself.

We are lucky, we live in democratic countries and we are able to have that kind of discussion.
What is it acceptable in advertising/art ?
In some countries you can be sentenced to death for having some "immoral thoughts".

So, just take some minutes and think what is acceptable for you and ask your neighbours what they think to be acceptable. The key is the compromise. Of course, art is there to make you think and/or react.

The ad ( here in your country/state ) has fulfilled its contract. We speak about the company, shop and the clothes. One point for the ad.

But don't forget what the old wise man once said :

"My Freedom stops where other's  Freedom starts"

It requires only a free usb port. That's all. ( for intuos, bamboo series, cintiq ones need extra power of course )
With some models you will receive a extra wireless mouse ( no batteries needed ).

If you take the trick, you won't use a mouse anymore. ( you will find it too "slow"  ). It's faster to point and click with a stylus in your hand.

Aegy.

Hello,

The best advice I can give you is to test before you buy.
A tablet is a "must-have" for  photo retouching but ... it depends the feelings you will have.
It asks some techniques and practising.

Some effects can't be achieve without a pressure sensitive tablet 'cause you have better control ( over transparency or brush size, useful for "layer masking" ).
And with a tablet, the Pen tool becomes magic ( especially with the control pads on intuos 3 series )

And I won't make advertising here but Wacom is offering the best quality and ergonomics.
I have an old Art Pad II ( still working ) and an Intuos 3 A4-Size. And perhaps I will go for the new Cintiq 12Wx to have the "direct paint on screen" feeling.

But again, try to test one or 2  models before buying ( A5 size is quite enough for photo retouching ,,,  )

Hope that will help you.

Aegy

Well ... My modesty is now under pressure. :)

Firstly, I would like to thank all the people here  ( admin, members, ... ) and wish you the best for this new year by the way. It's always a pleasure to see the works of the many talented members here and to share my work with you. Renderosity is a great community and I'm very honoured to be part of it.

Secondly, I would like to thank all my models. As I always say, glamour photography is a team work...with a special thought to my make-up artist : Laetitia. ( thank you for your great work ).

See you in my next post.

Aegy

Thanks for featuring my work.

Merry Christmas and My Best Wishes for 2008 to every RR members and their families and relatives.

Aegy

Thanks for all of your comments. And that's true, making tutorials ask a lot of time ( that's the frustrating part) but if it can help someone ...It will make me happy.

Long Life to RR.