Hi - just uploaded a newer version of the scripts with the png file type put in. Just download, and replace the Stereo Images folder with the new one and restart Poser.

No need for you to edit anything!

Quote - Hi Hairy

I'd swear that this is the third time I have posted this. I must be losing it!

I have a couple of questions about your Stereo Python Script.

I took me a while to get it to work, I found that after I use it I have to click the setup button and then the render button, before it will work again, don't know if this is normal or not but it works as long as I do it that way.

Not sure I follow here. You only need to click the Set Up button once. After than, you only need to click the Render button. Clicking Set Up again will probably force more than one convergence plane to be created, and that could confuse it.

Quote - My problem is that every time I use it and then go back to the Main screen, the Stereo Button has disappeared, and I have to set it up all over again. How do I get the button to become permanent?

I have no idea. To be honest, I’ve never done it that way. I’ve manually edited the .py file with button definitions in it. I see what you mean though - the buttons just reset.

Alternatively, you can put the Stereo Images folder in

Runtime/Python/poserScripts/

Do this before you start Poser up.

It will appear in the Scripts menu - you’ll get all the scripts in there, not just the ones that the buttons link to. I’ll have to clean up some of them so that you only get the scripts you need. Until then, the scripts you need are:

Set Up
Render
Render-Queue
reset

The rest can be safely ignored. 

Quote - Second by default it saves the images in Photoshop .psd format. Is there a way to have it save in .tiff or .jpg format that Stereo Picture Maker can read?  The way it is now I have to open them all in Photoshop and convert them.

You’ll need to edit the file called Render.py

1- Open it in a plain text editor - Notepad (Windows) or TextWrangler (on a Mac - I happen to use this app’s bigger brother BBEdit)

2 - Locate this line:

fileType="psd"

3 - Change it to

fileType="png"

And save.

Quote - Other then that it is working great. Here's a  test image I did with it.

Mike

Great! Looks like you have the left/right images the wrong way round though! It works great if I swap my glasses over!

Hope this all helps you - as I said, I’m using Poser Pro 2010 on a Mac. I’ve no way of testing this on Windows, so I’m stabbing in the dark a bit here.

Quote - Hi Hairy

I'll check it out, I don't understand any of the Python Script stuff so I guess it's time to learn.

Not much to learn from your end - just out the scripts in your Runtime/Python folder and link up a button in the Python script window. That's it. The rests all controlled through Poser's regular interface. There are a few good reasons 3D TV hasn't taken off: 1 - the need for glasses. This is a big obstacle, and glasses from a Sony set won't work on a Panasonic, etc., so if you have friend round to watch a 3D film, you'll need to invest in extra sets of glasses. They're not cheap. Glasses free 3D TV will see mor eu take, but I think we have a decade to wait. 2 - If, like me, you bought an HD TV, why should I buy another set so soon? HD TV took off about a year before thebfirst 3D TV sets appeared. 3 - Content. A lot of 3D stuff is pretty poor because it's not been made using dedicate 3D kit, rather it's been converted in post. So the majority of 3D films have not sold the idea of 3D I. The home. There hasn't been the killer film yet. I doubt there will be as film makers are learning about the process. Avatar was an excellent technical demo, but the story was no less engaging in 2D, and on the face of it pretty shallow. I could go on. I like 3D,but it's not ready for primetime yet.

Hi, all,

I’ve uploaded my Python scripts for you to have a go with. Youll find them on my Anaglyph pages, which I’ve updated, here:

http://www.worldofpaul.com/anaglyph/

The system was built in Poser Pro on a Mac. I’ve no reason to assume that it won’t work on Windows, but I can’t say for sure.

You’ll need to manually install it in your Runtime folder, and link up a button to the buttons.py file in the folder of scripts you will have downloaded. After that, it’s just a case of setting up a scene, hitting a button and making the anaglyph from the reuslting left & right images you get.

Have fun!

Quote - Ok, here is my image made with the new glasses.

I hope this looks better!

The clarity always seems to suffer a little when they are uploaded and resized.

Much better :-) Clarity always suffers when uploading images to online hosting services. You see it more with this kind of image because you lose a fair amount because of the nature of the anaglyph. One thing to remember - your filters cause the image to be darker than you expect. If an image is too dark as an anaglyph, I'll run it through Photoshop to brighten the left/right images a bit (usually by 30 to 40%) BEFORE making the anaglyph. It's important to do any brightening at that point in the process. If you have Poser Pro,you may want to try upping the gamma in your rendering settings. I've not tried this yet, preferring Photoshop for that kind of post processing. The space ship picture wasn't corrected in this way.

Mike - that explains it! Reversing the filters on my glasses makes your images make sense!

My 3D glasses are a free set I got as part of an advertising feature at the cinema. They are cardboard, but the gels in them are pretty good. They are getting a bit fragile now, but I know what the colours should look like when it comes to replace them.

Another route to go if setting up a monitor is too much (I think most LCD screens are not fast enough for shutter 3D displays, but this will change obviously) is to make stereo cards and use a viewer. Look for a book entitled A Village Lost and Found by Dr Brain May (he of Queen guitar fame - he collects stereoscopic images). The book is full of stereo images from his collection, and comes with a standard card viewer which will work with most you’ll find in antique shops. You can, of course, make your own by printing out images to the correct size and putting them in the viewer.

Mattel also make a 3D viewer for the iPhone (should you have one of those devices) and you should be able to make 3D images for that. It looks a bit like a View Master which your iPhone fits into.

I can’t check the video at the moment - I’m on a slow connection on holiday. I’ll try to remember to look when I get back home to the braodband network. Doctor Who is a life-long obsession for me too. Current series picks up very soon, I understand.

It works well. The big sphere is a bit disconcerting. Give me a few minutes and I'll dig out my man on a plank image. It should amuse.

Quote - Woo Hoo! I did it!

This looks good on my computer.  No double image and sharp edges.

I did another test where I made a ball really look like it's floating in front of the monitor.

It seems that the less color the better. If the colors are too strong it makes it look fuzzy.

Now that I know how to do it I'll work up something more complex with a ground plane tomorrow and the next step will be trying to do a video.

It's going to be a very short one. LOL that's going to be a lot of work.

Mike

My gratitude to Toxic Wolf who told how to do the Left Right images.  1.5 inches each way from center, it works.

Well done! You can use colour - depending on the software you use to make the anaglyph depends on how well it is preserved. Your filters also affect colour. Some are stronger than others, and that will also have an effect. Things to avoid are strong reds and blues in your pictures. This causes problems as the filters cancel them out in one side and not on the other, causing a swimming or confusing image. So make sure that coloured object will show through both the red and blue filters. Also avoid plain areas. I took some stereo photos in snow, and the pictures fail as anaglyphs because the White snow effectively tells your brain that trickery is afoot, and you can see the edges of objects in a quite distracting way. Here is an example of what I mean. The lamp post at the front has red/cyan shadows against the White sky. They show up as hosts when viewed using 3D glasses. You can never fully avoid this, but minimising is is good. Background noise (sky with clouds in this instance) would help. Also note that what works for you won't work for others. I like to have anaglyphs pop immediately. Some I have seen seem to require huge amounts of effort, which us bad. Keeping your distance between cameras to a natural distance is a good idea, as is keeping the focal length of your camera. I find 35mm to 50mm gives best results.

The images I linked to earlier in this thread were processed manually into anaglyphs in Photoshop. It was a bit messy, and I found the results a little less spectacular. When time permits, I’ll run them through Anaglyph Workshop.

I do plan on making my Python scripts available - I’m on holiday right now, and I’m also keen to see how they perform in Poser Pro 2012 now. I always find writing documentation for stuff  as equally involving as creating the scripts (I write add ons for another application) - if not more so.

I’ve been tinkering with a method of rendering the left/right images automaticaly in Poser using a Python script. Here are some images I did earlier int he year and last year as experimentation in the technique.

http://www.worldofpaul.com/anaglyph/redblueanaglyphs.html

Since then, my Poser “rig” has been streamlined and the set up script now creates a left/right camara (parented to the dolly camera), as well as a “focal plane” which determines how/where the cameras point (in effect, this is the screen surface).

What it can’t do is combine the resulting left/right images into an anaglyph or .MPO file - you need external software to do that. I’ll put a test scene together with what I have now and post one when it’s done.

Quote - Why are you so interested in Lion? It doesn't offer anything important to people who are used to computers and are comfortable working with files.

Lion is going to make your computer more like iPad, and IMO that's a bad thing.

Simple answer - my work will take me there. Daytime duties include work for a Mac dev outfit, and future work is likely to be on QA. This may require me to upgrade to Lion on my big machine. I'll keep a Snow Leopard backup to hand, but I intend the upgrade to be one-way. So far, Poser is the only miscreant on Lion, and that is workable. Yes - I mix work and fun on the same machine. I only have so much space in the house ;-) Anyway, a Lion Gotcha for you. It involves the "resume" functionality: 1 Start Poser 2 Create a new document and save it. 3 Quit Poser 4 Delete the file saved in step 2 5 Start Poser 6 >> Crash this is with Poser Pro 2010. The solution is, if you are going to junk or move the last worked on file is to have a small Poser file, and open thatnbefore quitting. The only way to stop the crashes was to restore the deleted file, or have to create a dummy file and ensure Poser has seen that one before you quit.

Quote - Anyway, I went ahead and tried to load content in Chrome by double-clicking a figure.  I got one XML error message... but from that point on, Poser loaded content from Chrome!  I guess a workaround for now is to use a Chrome window with LSMGUI.html as your Library.  I might actually prefer having it in its own separate app!

Good find! I rather like this as a solution. It seems faster on scrolling than the edefault Poser library window, and as a bonus, you can run Chrome full screen and swap between it and Poser nicely.