Attached Link: Aegipan Glamour Photography Official Website

Congratulations to the other photographers as well!

Peace,

Aegy

Thanks for featuring my work here.

Peace,

Aegy (aka AEGIPAN)

www.aegipan.tk

Congratulations everyone ...

...and thanks for featuring my work.

Peace,

Aegy

Thanks for featuring my work.

Long Life to Renderosity.

Peace,

Aegy

Thanks for featuring my work.

Long Life To renderosity !

Peace,

Aegy

Lightroom is now part of my workflow and I must admit its part is big now. let's say 80%.
With more than 120,000 pictures a year, I was searching a tool that was able to reduce my wokflow  process time. Lightroom is that (magic) tool. Its interface is nicely oriented for the photographers and its learning curve is rather fast. And for me, time is money.

First of all you have to understand that Lighroom doesn't replace Photoshop in any way.
It's a powerful tool to manipulate images files (mainly raw files). You can import, order, tag, select and modify your files on-the-fly without loosing too much time. Of course, you must have a "decent" computer with decent "perfomances" .

However, it's quite a "new" tool in digital workflow and it has some lacks (a gentle word to say "bugs"). For example the new adjustment brush tool is quite a nice "add-on" but the way it works is really frustrating. Good for little enhancements, but again Lightroom isn't Photoshop, Photopaint or Gimp. But it seems that adobe tries to improve it in each release.

And the most important thing you must understand for a better use of Lightroom is: it's a "database"  software  (not a retouching software).

To be short:

Pros:

• really improves your workflow process time.
• very intuitive with a fast learning curve, photographer-oriented tool

Cons:

• some  bugs
• requires a "good" computer with high perfomances.
• not  a retouching software but a post processing one.

hope it will help you.

Peace,
Aegy

Hello,

Thanks for featuring one of my pictures and congrats to the other featured members.

Peace.

Aegy

Not the first time I read that kind of story.
Never point your camera direct to the sun or let your camera directly under a source of heat or light. And if  your are using zoom lens, it's worst.

Of course that kind of bad manipulation is not covered by your warranty.

...

Hello,

To be short, here my list of browsers in order of preference on my PC :

1. Firefox (with so many plug-ins and tools ... for web design purpose and my daily browsing experience).
2. Opera (one of the fastest IMHO).
3. Internet Explorer (testing purpose).
4. Lynx (don't laugh its very useful to check your "content").
5. Safari (Just starting, installed a few weeks ago I'm on a Windows based system).

and on my mobile phone Opera Mini 4.0 is installed.
Peace.

Aegy

Hello,

So let's go back in Time. I received my first "computer" when I was 11 ( for my birthday). it was a Commodore 64 with a tape reader. I still remember the time you had to wait to load a game or an application.. But I never forget that when I turned it on, you can start right there to use it. :o) No you don't wait a lot to load an application but for the OS :o)

After I had a Commodore 128, not too long because in the end of the eighties I switched to a Commodore Amiga 500 this is the computer that pushed me into Assembler 68000 coding. A  beautiful mouse great graphics and sound and 512 Ko of memory. :o) In the middle of nineties, if I remember well I've switched to an AMD DX4 100 Mhz ... using OS2/Warp. (glups)

Now  I can proudly say that my current laptop computer is able to emulate my C64 and my Amiga 500. By the way, my first ever version of Photoshop was the 3.54.

Time goes by ...

Peace.

Aegy

Hello,

There are some "rules" with backup and archiving.
Each medium has it own expectation of life. For example an hard drive even if not used grows old and finally dies slowly but surely.

So the first rule never delete our original files (except memory cards of course but before doing it follow these rules) :

1. Copy the original files on a heavy mass storage (hard drive)
2. After shooting, make a quick review your files with a graphic file browser you will already detect if some files are corrupted due for example in a bad memory read/write/transfer.
3. proceed with a BINARY check of the source and copy files. Personally I use WinMerge in binary mode (open-source project)
4. repeat once again step 1, 2 and 3 to another mass storage device.
5. Finally burn the files on CDs or DVD ( again binary check don't rely on your burn/copy program). and again backup.
6. Now you've got 5 proofed copy of your files ( 1 on memory cards 2 on hard drives and 2 or CD/DVD
7. The next shoot begins, you can erase the files on memory cards.
8. After about 12-18 months  copy your hard drives content on new and fresh hard drives and start again. BUT before doing that try to make a kind of cleaning of selection.
9. Welcome the world of redundancy. (Don't forget I'm originally an IT Specialist during the week and the day and sometimes photographer on week-ends and/or during the evenings)

Conclusion, never rely of 1 unique copy (and proof it) at least have 3 (proofed) copies of your original files and stored in different locations ( studio, home, work,  safe in bank ). And make copies on a regular basis.
Yes it costs a lot of money and time but don't forget storage capacities are growing and growing up and cost less and less and data transfer rates grows up.

Since I making (little) money with my pictures, loosing a "important" file may results in loosing money but worst of it loosing my "customers" confidence.

For your problem here try to find some file recovery programs, you can evaluate some of them before buying it but I think here that's a problem on the CD.

I hope this helps

Peace.

Aegy

Hello,

Just for information : I'm using my Canon EOS 5D  for more than 2 years now. This camera is (still) one of the best available in the digital world (IQ price rating) but sadly don't have a dust sensor  cleaning system and believe me on a full frame camera dust have place to play.

Here they charge you (approx.) 45$ for cleaning the sensor and of course you have to go to the service center and so on. So since the beginning (EOS 20D) I use the visible dust  arctic butterfly system. I know it's quite expensive but it's very effective it's non aggressive solution (based on electrostatic, you don't touch the sensor  AA filter ) but the best of all it's always with me in my camera bag so I can make a "cleaning" on the way. Of course the first time, you will be very impressed (sure ? may I clean it ... glups). But now I clean even the cameras of friends in about 1 or 2 minutes with confidence.

I've got the full package with cleaning fluids for the sensor and the chamber but In 2 years I've used it 2 or 3 times. The problem with dust spots on the sensor is that you can very quickly go "mad" and paranoiac. In fact avoiding dust on sensor can be pretty simple. Now I clean my sensor every 20 shoots or 10 shoots if I've changed the lens in a "dusty" environment.

On my 40D (with the sensor cleaning system) in about 4 month no sign of dust up to know. ( great relief but in case of emergency my brushes are in my bag.

Of course don't expect Nikon or Canon will recommend those "manual" cleaning systems even if they use them themselves.

Just my 2 cents.

Aegy

Re.,

If you like this kind of shoots (and use a 400D) the Canon EF-S 60mm macro 2.8 is a very nice lens with a nice image quality ( good quality price rating ) however it can only be used with 1.6x crop camera ( 400D, 450D, 40D ...).

Peace,

Aegy

Hello,

It's a nice example of what they call chromatic aberration in this case a cyan fringe appears in contrasty zones.(surrounding whites here). It comes firstly from the lens you are using and after the sensor ISO settings can be part of the phenomenon too. Some raw processing programs have correction tools for that kind of aberrations.

If you only have a JPG file is still possible to (color range) select the cyan tones  of the picture and slightly correct the effect with an adjustment curve too.

( IMHO I suspect (too) a non constant color temperature in the softboxes, and when you are making '"pack shots" ( pictures of objects, props ...), it's always good to use custom white balance based on a "gray" (or white) card to avoid color shifting.

I made a quick corrected version ( keep in mind it was quite early for me and the night was long)

I hope it will help you.

Peace.

Aegy

Re.,

Yes thanks for the correction.
The file has been corrected and uploaded again.
I must check more carefully what I have already written.

Corrections and comments are greatly appreciated and thanks for your time.

Peace,

Aegy