If it's for an animation, the recommended procedure is to render individual frames and then assemble them into the finished animation. Could you do that, and just assemble them in reverse order?

BTW, I just ran a quick test. If you're using Feet as your unit, setting gravity to -10.3 gets you within about 1 or 2% of the correct falling speed. For an object falling for one second, it's less than a frame off the theoretical value.

It not only makes the figures too tall, it also means there's a lot more math involved with creating scenes, because approximately 103.2 inches is a totally non-intuitive scale. For example, a 6' figure becomes .697 PNUs, while a 5' 6" person is .639.

If the reason for using PNUs is gravity, that's adjustable. It's a lot easier to pick a scale that works, and calculate what the value for gravity should be. Once you do that, you can use the same figure every time as long as the scale is the same.

SamTherapy posted at 9:19AM Sat, 28 September 2019 - #4364572

Short version, my models are consistent across their scale...

And that, to me, is the important bit. If the models are consistent within their universe, it makes it a lot easier to work with them. Even if I have to rescale something of yours, I can be pretty sure that 97% (or whatever) for one item is going to get me really close on the others.

Maybe my method is too simple, but here's my workflow.

Ages ago, I found a simple and free caliper that at 100% scale accurately measures feet. I changed the origin to be the inside of the fixed arm, and I can adjust the height to whatever I want-if I want a character who is 5' 6", I just set the height to 5.5, and then scale the character so he or she matches the height.

As a bonus, I can use it to check the size of various things like cars (the wheelbase is easiest to find and measure) or to see if building are scaled the same as everything else (doorknobs are more or less a standard height, so I measure those.

From my experience, the "outlines" seem to happen if you try and move the hand or foot further than it can move and still be attached to the body, and that's what I'm seeing in the video. If you don't pull the hand (for example) so far from the body that you get the outlines, I'll bet your problems with the pose being screwed up will go away. If a character's arm is, for example, 2 1/2 poser units long and you try and move the hand 4 units from the body, Poser then has to guess at a whole bunch of position and rotation values.

I want to thank everybody who chimed in-all of the advice I got was spot on!

seachnasaigh posted at 11:10PM Fri, 01 June 2018 - #4330972

My guess it that the offending diagonal rails were formed with n-gon sides; that would have a concave angle on the bottom, and Poser will display a concave n-gon by drawing a straight line from the bottom of one end to the bottom of the other end. So, for example, a Star of David n-gon will show as a hexagon.

That's exactly the issue. I thought I'd be clever and make each of the rails from a single object so it starts and ends parallel to the ground, but angles down to follow the slope of the stairs in the middle. I guess I'll have to do them as three separate objects.

Try exporting as an OBJ, if that option is available. The mesh must be UV-mapped to accept image map textures.

Quote - Interviewer:  What do you consider to be your greatest weakness?

Applicant: Honesty.

Interviewer: I don't consider honesty to be a weakness.

Applicant: I don't give a fuck what you think.  

You sir, have won the Internet.

I've got an astronomy background, so maybe I can approach this a little differently for people who aren't quite following where BB is going...

The sun produces what is, for all intents, white light.  The moon reflects the sun's light essentially equally across all wavelengths, so the light coming off of it is still considered "white" light.  (BTW, the moon is actually a very poor reflector of light--only about 9%.  Even though we see it as gray, it's really no brighter than freshly paved asphalt)

Now the light reaches the earth's atmosphere, where some of it is scattered.  However, blue light is scattered more than the longer wavelengths (a phenomenon known as "Rayleigh scattering").  The result is that some of the blue wavelengths coming from the moon are removed from the "direct" moonlight, and used to light the sky--it's why the sky is blue in daytime, and even a very dark blue during a full moon.

When you take some (not all, but some) of the blue light out of white, you get a slightly yellow cast to the light.

As the moon gets lower in the sky more light is absorbed, making the moon look yellow, and then orange once it's low enough that it begins to absorb noticeable amounts of green as well

Something else to consider if you're going "homebuilt"--the stock heatsink/fan that ship with the processor just don't cut it for stuff like Poser--I recently built an second generation i5, and running all four cores @100% for 30 minutes doing an HQ render meant that I saw CPU temps in the 95C range, which is way too hot.  Tossed an aftermarket cooler (which includes a radiator as big as my hand) on it, and I rarely see the temp get to 65C

I've been using the HP 23" LED monitor since about April, and I'm really happy with*.

Whichever model you go with, I'll second Dale's comments about the advantages of an LED monitor over a traditional LCD.

*In the interest of full disclosure, I work as a rep for HP.

I think one problem that a lot of people have when trying to do accents is that they find one or two "hooks" and overplay them, while forgetting all of the subtle things that make an accent work.

A good example is that any time an American tries to "do" Canadian, he keeps throwing "oot" and "aboot" into every sentence.  Not all Canadians have that “Canadian raising“, and those for those that do, it's much subtler than it usually gets done--and the different vowel pronunciations get totally missed.Back in my radio days, I was the station’s “accent guy”—I probably wasn’t the greatest in the world, but I tried to make them as close as I could get.  I know I was the only guy in the area who was doing a “northern England” accent.

As others have said, pain in your fingers is part of learning to play guitar.  You're pressing down on little bits of steel wire, and your fingers don't like it at first. If the pain is in your finger tips, that's normal, and you're just gonna have to play through it.  If other parts of your hand start hurting, that's when you need to stop. 

Try and find a teacher who can look and make sure you don't have any technique problems.  That can not only slow your progress, but can lead to things like making your carpal tunnel worse.  Also, a teacher should be able to tell if your guitar needs a setup adjustment.  Really high action just adds to your workload.

I'm gonna have to disagree slightly with bagginsbill when he says that anybody can become great with 10,000 hours of practice.  First, I think it's a bit of an oversimplification.  Simply putting in the time isn't enough.  What makes you better is practice, properly focused.  If you're trying to play something, and getting it wrong, stop, back up, and if necessary, slow down until you can play it properly at the slower tempo.  Then, work your speed back up.  That way, you're not practicing mistakes.

Also, some people just have more talent in some areas than others.  Give me 10,000 hours, and I could probably do a decent job hitting major league pitching.  Give me  1,000,000 hours, and I probably wouldn't be able to hit like Ted Williams in his prime, because I wasn't born with some of the physical gifts he was.

josterD,

I used to be incredibly shy, which seemed weird because at the time I had a pretty visible job--I was a dj at the top-ranked local radio station.  I could talk on the radio and be almost anonymous.  I could even talk to a large group, but I was brutal in one-on-one conversations with people I didn't know.

markschum suggested several good things, including the grocery store. 

I used to go to a clothing store in the mall, and pick out a couple of items that really didn't go together (like a red shirt and green pants), and when I saw someone I wanted to talk to, ask them for help, because I'm colorblind (I'm not, but it's a way to get them talking).  It's non-threatening, it works with one girl or a group, and it helps you get to where you can walk up to someone and start talking.  Some people might blow you off, but that's a reflection on them, not you.

It's like anything else--the more you do it, the easier it becomes.  It won't work every time, but dive in!