I just say - it helps me with the drawings...

Yeah, I saw that too. Neftoon looks even worse for MTs mirroring.

It is a marvellous program indeed. It does exactly qhat it is supposed to do smooth and beautifully. Had no problems at all on a PIII 800/512 RAM, even with 4000 x 4000 textures. I used the DAZ UV conversion before and had weird results after saving the files to pzz's and re-opening them: the textures got completely messed up. This utility completely solved the problem. Thanks DW for this wonderful program - it's the best poser add-on utility ever!

great subject... well, I think the main light could be weakened, it looks a little industrial for me... anyway, I love those ancient pedal sewing machines!

Negatives & chromes do not lie! You get exactly the shot you make (process troubles included). Chromes are great for the learning process, cause they have a very small tolerance with lighting conditions, so, if you watch them carefully, you can always improve your technique. And that's the point. Prints will always suffer the influence of your lab guy's evaluation, and sometimes he commits nasty mistakes. Anyway, film scanners have a greater hability to deal with the differences among light & dark zones, wich some flatbed insist to change in a hidden "auto-contrast"feature.

Well, the product may be used with care. It does not dissolve the film (its basis), but small ammounts of product (applied with a cotonette) and gentle rubbing would be highly recomendable. I buy this product directly from a chemical shop, and in some countries it may be a controlled substance. Once I found a neg-cleaner based on this product, but can't remember the name.

I would not recommend soaking negatives or prints in water. Negatives are extremely delicate and sometimes, even the softest cloth would scratch them with ease, wich is particularly bad for film scanning. If you have negs or slides with fungus, I would suggest the use of "tri-cloretileno" (I don't know its name in english) wich is, by the way, extremely poisonous. Some kind of 60,s, 70's & 80's colour prints can totally fade when in contact to water.

I have a Nikon Coolpix 990 and I think it's as close as you can get to a SLR without going into the Thousands of Bucks Universe. It has apperture/speed control, white balance (which is very important for a digi-cam), exceptional macro (good for textures) and countless features more. The new model, the 995, has a connection for studio flashes and something more. On the other hand, Fuji and Sony have a lot of good cameras which you should check before making your decision. claudiow