That was a great video, one of the basic requirements of nature photography is the equipment to capture the subject and know how to use it to the maximum.  The second is patience and the third as was pointed out is lots and lots of planning.  Even with all of that there is still a degree of good luck which works for you because of the devotion of the previous.

A number of years ago in an attempt to capture a specific fish hatching in the outer Fiji Islands a number of us took shifts underwater waiting on the eggs to hatch, we spent  hours underwater each day for almost a week poised with cameras just waiting, amazing how the cold penetrates a wetsuit when you don't move around.  Lots of planning to be on a remote reef in the Pacific, really great camera equipment with full Nikon support staff, lots of patience, and in the end ... no photo.  That is nature photography! mark

Thanks preap! That helped immensely!

Congratulations and very well deserved!

 I use the datacolor spyder pro 3 with a dual monitor setup with no problems or issues! I've used the spyder for a number of years and have upgraded to new models, very easy to use!   My calibration is perfect with an epson 7800 printer when the paper is properly profiled.  Highly recommend the spyder3pro! mark

 There are many things to discuss as to what makes a great photographer.  I would ask to whom?  The link is referring to a seniors portrait photographer, which really speaks to commercial success rather than great photography. What that leads to is the definition.  I tend to believe a great photographer is one that follows his/her own path and affects / connects with people through their photography, it could be simply to show something new and different or generate a new idea, or to change the actions of people.

Most truly great artists were not recognized until many years later, the same may be true for great photographers. But if we are talking of a great photographer of commercial success, they create images that people buy! 

 Congratulations Tom!

 Thanks for sharing!  These were full of great information. 

 All very cool looking images! Thanks for sharing!

 I think this depends on the photographer and what he/she shoots.  I am much more of a believer in prime lenses rather than zoom.  For the amateur I think the recommendation is spot on.

Additionally you need to ascertain how you are using your equipment.  My 70-200mm f2.8 zoom is a pretty heavy lens.  I'm not certain the average person would lug that around, although compared to an 300mm f2.8 it is pretty light.  I have a number of macro lenses, the 60mm is a good choice for light weight and is a prime, but I prefer the 105mm especially when traveling, with a tele-extender it becomes a ~200mm at far less bulk and weight as the 200mm f4 macro, but I normally chose the lens for what I'm shooting or the concept that I plan to shoot, that goes for the camera as well.  I rarely just go out looking to see what I can find, usually I've decided the subject, general idea, and lenses I need for the shoot before I leave home. I agree that a prime makes the photographer move more, but moving around the subject can often lead you to that really special shot. 

I think the words "UNLESS they have reasonable suspicion" are key, what is suspicion?  If a person is loitering by virtue of spending a considerable amount of time in the same area is that suspicious, whether taking photos or just standing around? I understand the point that is trying to be made, that the police have no right to ask what you are doing, and I believe that is a naive point to be making.

In today’s world if a person was in the same area for a considerable length of time I find that suspicious, the fact he/she has a camera is incidental. I think the police are just doing their job in a responsible manner to simply ask a person politely what their name is, I would certainly not be offended by that, however I found the behavior of the photographer rather suspicious myself.  Why not just say, I'm taking pictures with a new camera and my name is ______ and I live a few blocks away or am visiting this beautiful area, instead of asking, "are you detaining me".  

His constant asking if he was being detained was suspicious to me.  I don't think suspicious behavior is limited to covertly taking pictures. I have no doubt that had I responded the same way the photographer did I would have been locked up in a number of jails throughout the world.  Common sense and courtesy by any photographer goes a long way towards getting the picture you want verse being taken away.  Perhaps that is the difference between the amateur and professional. 

 I've taken quite a few street pictures over the years, but watching the video, this seems to be much more of  a setup of the police than an attack on the rights of the photographer.  I didn't find the photographer very helpful in explaining what he was doing and refusing to provide his name and address is what led to the arrest.  How difficult is it to be pleasant and provide your name and address?  I have been asked before about pictures that I was taking and took the time to explain what and why I was taking the photo and provided a business card or identification of who I was to the authorities that inquired, and have never had a problem.  Just my opinion.

 The number one most overlooked method of obtaining sharper images is to use a tripod!  Especially on portraits of people and even animals focus on the eyes. I use manual focus for portraits. I use a tripod for at least 90% of all my images.

 Congratulations!  Great photos!

I use Digital Pro for taking the images off the card.  It provides almost everything I need to keep track of images, I find it much better for my use than Adobes Lightroom for cataloging and tracking, and it allows for transferring images taken in the field to my main pc.  Information can be found at  http://www.moose395.net/Merchant2/merchant.mv

Great restortation! You might try a little gaussian blur on the collar, it does a great job of taking out blotchy spots, keep the edge of the collar sharp and it will look like you lost no detail. Sometimes the easiest way to accoplish that look is to create a duplicate layer, use the blur on the top layer then erase the parts that you want to stay sharp. Once done combine the two layers.