Probably this can be answered by Donald who is a D10 owner. I have had the camera now for about two months and the image quality has been fantastic but only after tweaking in Photoshop. When I take a picture particularly with flash I always have a quick look at the camera screen to make sure it is ok. It nearly always looks great but when I upload the image to Photoshop it looks at least 2 stops under-exposed. I then have to fine-tune it in Levels to brighten it up. Any ideas anyone?

Interesting one while I dont own this camera get the same effect with my own Digital a Minolta7HI more like 2.5- 3 stops.. !! Love to know the solution but had thought it was due to the rather small flash compared to my Film camera.. And have not tried a dedicated flash as the price is prohibitive at present..

Danny O'Byrne  http://www.digitalartzone.co.uk/

"All the technique in the world doesn't compensate for the inability to notice" Eliott Erwitt

I actually use the dedicated Canon Speedlite and this is when it is most noticeable.

I haven't afforded the dedicated flash yet, so I still use the built in flash when I need it. Check through your entire EXIF information on one of the bad photos to make sure the EV wasn't changed somehow or that the flash balance wasn't changed either. Sounds dumb, but I have had problems bumping the main dial without knowing it; I now know that I should use the lock button on it so I don't wind up with more EV -1.5 and -2.0 pictures. Hopefully you're more careful of those settings though. Asides from that, I can only suggest double checking the color profile of your monitor and the working space of photoshop.

Really need Donald's help here. Donald! Raw mode? Histograms?

Popped in for a few minutes while eating dinner at work. Too afraid to respond in Tedz's dance thread so I popped in here. :) Misha - No. Yes. (well, yes and yes if you want to screw with it in photoshop) Jack - The LCD on the back of the 10D (and most DSLRs) is there to review composition, focus, motion, etc. It does not represent the light levels correctly and should be ignored for anything dealing with exposure. For exposure, look to your histogram. I set the 10D to show me INFO when I bring up a thumbnail, so that I get to see my composition and that other stuff with a nice histogram next to it. -=>Donald

I read this and I realized I said look at the histogram, but I just assumed you knew what to look for. :) For good exposure, you usually want your peaks nicely distributed around the center area of the histogram. What you want to almost always avoid is cutoff. Where the histogram is shoved up against the left or right side. If you have an empty gap to the left and right sides then you know you've captured all of the information available and if need be can at least fix it in Photoshop if necessary. For low key, you'll of course want most of the distribution from your mids (center) to the shadows (left side) and the reverse for high key (mids to highlights). But there is no real rule, you have to think about the composition and lights/darks in a shot and know beforehand kind of how the histogram "should" look. The thing to remember in your case is if you look at your shot on the LCD and it looks ok and you then look at the histogram and everything is jammed over to the left then it's most likely underexposed. If it's jammed all the way to the right it's overexposed (of course, if you have it set, the 10D should be flashing all of the blown-out highlights at you in bright red anyway). That make any sense? -=>Donald

Thanks Donald. It made a lot of sense. I will investigate further. Cheers Jack