cliss opened this issue on Sep 10, 2005 ยท 13 posts
cliss posted Sat, 10 September 2005 at 6:03 AM
i have read a couple of threads lately that have encoraged me to try the cloth room which i am finding quite rewarding. i also read the tutorial of making cornforming cloths dynamic, but the talk of intersected mesh and the like well its ten feet over the top of my head. So is there a group of merchants that have the requirments in their products so i can change them into dynamic cloths?
zulu9812 posted Sat, 10 September 2005 at 6:18 AM
I believe that all clothing can be changed to dynamic cloth - if you export the .obj, reimport it and save it as a prop instead of a figure
nruddock posted Sat, 10 September 2005 at 6:34 AM
Attached Link: http://www.philc.net/tutorial4.htm
Link to Philc's tutorial.The amount of work required for some conforming items may be considerable as the items weren't constructed to be dynamic cloth friendly.
svdl posted Sat, 10 September 2005 at 7:16 AM
There's no golden rule saying "Merchant A's conforming clothes can all be converted, and Merchant B's conforming can not." The rules of thumb: - Clothes that have "capped" holes, such as the standard P4 bikini bottom, can not be converted straight out of the box. The caps must be removed first. - Fully double-sided clothes also mess up in the cloth room. - Clothes that have a large portion of very long and thin polygons usually don't work well in the cloth room. - Delaurnay meshes work best. A bit hard to explain in text what they are, but you can download one of the dynamic dresses from poserfashion.net and examine the mesh structure, those are Delaurnay meshes. They work so well since the mesh doesn't have long straight lines, so there is no preferred direction of bending and folding. You won't find Delaurnay meshes in clothing that has been designed as conforming. - Last but not least: the older the conforming clothing model, the less likely it can be easily converted to dynamic cloth. The older clothes usually have less and larger polygons, they often have capped holes or are double-sided. Preparing those meshes for the cloth room takes some work in a modeling program.
The pen is mightier than the sword. But if you literally want to have some impact, use a typewriter
estherau posted Sat, 10 September 2005 at 8:41 AM
I've tried a couple of shadownet's conforming clothes in the MP, the allinwonder and dorm set and they work beautifully. Love esther Also some of Hmann's clothes, but then he sells dynamic clothes as well.
I aim to update it about once a month. Oh, and it's free!
cliss posted Sat, 10 September 2005 at 9:47 AM
Thanks for the tutorial link nruddock and thanks svdl i think its a case of trying what i already have to see if they work, up to now it has been hit and miss, with more misses than hits hence the post. What is the best way to study the mesh is there a cheap program or free one that i could use. i am not a modeler just does not interest me so all the cinimas, mayas, etc are of no interest. estherau thank you for pointing me in the direction of shadownet's allinwonder and dorm set
svdl posted Sat, 10 September 2005 at 9:51 AM
Just load the clothing figure in Poser and switch to Wireframe or Hidden Line view. No need for an external program.
The pen is mightier than the sword. But if you literally want to have some impact, use a typewriter
DominiqueB posted Sat, 10 September 2005 at 11:45 AM
Dominique Digital Cats Media
diolma posted Sat, 10 September 2005 at 4:10 PM
Was about to add (but DominiqueB beat me to it), the warning about conforming clothes which have separate parts.
To expound a little: often, conforming clothing is made from meshes that are physically separate. This doesn't matter for conforming, 'cos the bits are grouped and set up to move correctly. But for the cloth room the mesh has to be contiguous (that is, everything is connected together).
OK, not 100% true when you start adding constrained/decorated groups etc, but generally true.
A case in point is ISOP's wonderful Maid Dress for V2. The lacy frills are all separate meshes. If you try to clothify them, the lacy bits just fall apart from the main dress.
Mind you, with a bit of work in a 3D modelling app, welding the various bits together and then re-importing the changed mesh, you can get lovely results. (But do remember that the mesh is still ISOP's copyright..)
Cheers,
Diolma
(Edited 'cos of missing part of explanation)..
Message edited on: 09/10/2005 16:12
Acadia posted Sat, 10 September 2005 at 4:24 PM
Go to this link. It has a great tutorial. Only it missed out on a cruitial step and I had to post here for some help: http://www.poserfashion.net/downloadp5.htm Here is the post where I asked for help. http://www.renderosity.com/messages.ez?ForumID=12356&Form.ShowMessage=2220912&Reply=2222342#17 That's all I had to do in order to get the basics down in the cloth room... that tutorial and what randym helped me with in that thread.
"It is good to see ourselves as
others see us. Try as we may, we are never
able to know ourselves fully as we
are, especially the evil side of us.
This we can do only if we are not
angry with our critics but will take in good
heart whatever they might have to
say." - Ghandi
estherau posted Sat, 10 September 2005 at 6:39 PM
philc and poserworld clothes usually work really well too. love esther
I aim to update it about once a month. Oh, and it's free!
Little_Dragon posted Sat, 10 September 2005 at 8:26 PM
Delaurnay meshes work best. A bit hard to explain in text what they are ....
Would "homogenized" be an appropriate word?
cliss posted Sun, 11 September 2005 at 2:37 PM
Sorry i have not posted my thanks before work got in the way. So here goes thanks guys ;D