Hi

With the gaining popularity of 3D imaging I was wondering if anyone had come up with a way to create Stereographic images and video with Poser.

I looked into this many years ago.

At that time it wasn't possible but I thought that maybe someone has developed software that will do the conversion, or something like that.

I used to have a lot of fun messing around with 3D games.

When flat screens came along that was the end of 3D until the new faster refresh monitors came along.

Now I'm getting interested again.

If I could do a video in 3D, I'd be tempted to spring for a 3D set up for my present computer.

I'm guessing a lot of people would be interested in creating 3D images that they could show off on their computer.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Attached Link: http://www.poserdirect.com/concepts.html

*With the gaining popularity of 3D imaging I was wondering if anyone had come up with a way to create Stereographic images and video with Poser.*

Yep :) Only for photos for now though and some of my approaches are below..

How to use .MPO files (3d photos) within Poser

http://www.renderosity.com/mod/forumpro/showthread.php?thread_id=2830705

Anaglyph software questions

http://www.renderosity.com/mod/forumpro/showthread.php?thread_id=2830302

In this thread the background photo is a 3d photo.

I'm guessing a lot of people would be interested in creating 3D images that they could show off on their computer.

I certainly do :) I like the challenge of getting stuff like 3d photos from a camera into Poser or making Parallax Scrolling within Poser actually work (link above).

I used to have a lot of fun messing around with 3D games.

Likewise :) Playing Star Trek Elite Force using a pair of 3D Revelator's was great fun.

Still got the glasses, but no machine capable of running an elsa graphics card.

Pinky - you left the lens cap of your mind on again.

Hi

Thanks for the information.

I'll look through the stuff you mentioned.

I haven't seen a 3D TV set yet, one of these days I'll have to get to Best Buy and see what they really look like.

I still remember how neat it was to play Tomb Raider with my 3D glasses on!  Lara leaping from vine to vine and things flying toward you, what a blast.  I used to show everyone who came to my house.

It would be nice if someone would create a suite of tools for the home user that would allow the creation of Stereo Images and Video on a home computer level of sophistication.  

I don't need to be able to do Avatar but some simple action stuff would be neat.

Maybe an oppertunity for Smith Micro, or DAZ.

I'm not sure how complecated it would be, I've seen ads for software that claims to be able to convert flat movies to 3D but I have no idea if they reall work or not.

An add on program that would convert DAZ Studio and Poser images and Video to Stereo would be great.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hi MrSparky.

I downloaded and installed the Parallax application.

I think this is something I could really use, but I'm having a few problems with it.  

I was already planning a video where my Lucy character is driving her Lotus Super 7 down the road, this would be perfect to create the 3D feel in the scene.

I sent you an e-mail with a video and an image that show the problems I'm having.

Thanks again for the information.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

I’ve been tinkering with a method of rendering the left/right images automaticaly in Poser using a Python script. Here are some images I did earlier int he year and last year as experimentation in the technique.

http://www.worldofpaul.com/anaglyph/redblueanaglyphs.html

Since then, my Poser “rig” has been streamlined and the set up script now creates a left/right camara (parented to the dolly camera), as well as a “focal plane” which determines how/where the cameras point (in effect, this is the screen surface).

What it can’t do is combine the resulting left/right images into an anaglyph or .MPO file - you need external software to do that. I’ll put a test scene together with what I have now and post one when it’s done.

Hello,

    You will find in the free stuff section three Python scripts related to stereography. One script is for image generation, one is for movie generation and one is for calculating the stereo base (Distance between camera). I also create a group on  Flicker for uploading 3D CGI  images.

Here are the link to the Python scripts

Stereoscopy : Image generator

http://www.renderosity.com/mod/freestuff/details.php?item_id=62715

 

Stereoscopy : Stereo movie generator

http://www.renderosity.com/mod/freestuff/details.php?item_id=63140

 

Stereoscopy : Stereobase calculator

http://www.renderosity.com/mod/freestuff/details.php?item_id=62961

 

Flicker group (You have to open a free account to have access the photostream of the group
http://www.flickr.com/groups/stereo_3d/

 

Here is a list of tutorials related to stereoscopy

http://www.renderosity.com/mod/forumpro/showthread.php?thread_id=2817598

 

A thread on how to use 3DTV

http://www.renderosity.com/mod/forumpro/showthread.php?thread_id=2824948

 

You can search the Renderosity and Daz sites using the word stereoscopy and anaglyph for other threads.

 

Hope that you will find the stuff useful

Allstereo

 

 

 

Hi Hairy

I checked out the images on the link you posted.

I even had a set of Red Blue glasses on hand.

Pretty neat.

 

Hi Allstereo

I'll check out the links you posted.

Thanks for the information.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Attached Link: http://www.renderosity.com/mod/gallery/index.php?image_id=2195932§ion_id=&genre_id=&np

I found this image by Toxic Wolf in another post.

This one looks fantastic on my monitor.

Really has depth and is very sharp.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Mike ...will be sending you an email soon.
Been working all weekend and havn't had any chance to properly look at the issues and find some solutions until now.

Nice image by toxic wolf there.

hairydalek...like your approach.

What it can’t do is combine the resulting left/right images into an anaglyph or .MPO file

This does the trick for creating anaglyphs...
http://www.stereoeye.jp/software/index_e.html

But havn't found anything yet that does much .MPO files, except spilt them into a pair. Though thats no biggie as MPO's are usually created in camera.  Theres very also few viewers around. Fuji say use the camera and Sony say buy one of their big tellys.  

Allstereo - thanks for those links.

Pinky - you left the lens cap of your mind on again.

mike - please check your email.

Pinky - you left the lens cap of your mind on again.

Hello all,

     One very popular and extensive stereoscopic program is Stereo Photo Maker. It is free. You can generate many forms of stereoscopic picture (anaglyph, cross view, MPO files, etc.). Easy to use. Here is the link

http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/

Here’s an red/blue anaglyph created using my method (click to see full size - it works better that way). The two left/right images were rendered in Poser Pro, and the anaglyph itself was created by an application calld Anaglyph Workshop - [ http://www.tabberer.com/sandyknoll/more/3dmaker/anaglyph-software.html](http://www.tabberer.com/sandyknoll/more/3dmaker/anaglyph-software.html) - also on the Mac App store. I’ve tried a few methods and pieces of software since buying a stsreoscopic camera last year, and I’ve found this to be the best so far in terms of usability as well as results.

The images I linked to earlier in this thread were processed manually into anaglyphs in Photoshop. It was a bit messy, and I found the results a little less spectacular. When time permits, I’ll run them through Anaglyph Workshop.

I do plan on making my Python scripts available - I’m on holiday right now, and I’m also keen to see how they perform in Poser Pro 2012 now. I always find writing documentation for stuff  as equally involving as creating the scripts (I write add ons for another application) - if not more so.

Woo Hoo! I did it!

This looks good on my computer.  No double image and sharp edges.

I did another test where I made a ball really look like it's floating in front of the monitor.

It seems that the less color the better. If the colors are too strong it makes it look fuzzy.

Now that I know how to do it I'll work up something more complex with a ground plane tomorrow and the next step will be trying to do a video.

It's going to be a very short one. LOL that's going to be a lot of work.

Mike

My gratitude to Toxic Wolf who told how to do the Left Right images.  1.5 inches each way from center, it works.

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Quote - Woo Hoo! I did it!

This looks good on my computer.  No double image and sharp edges.

I did another test where I made a ball really look like it's floating in front of the monitor.

It seems that the less color the better. If the colors are too strong it makes it look fuzzy.

Now that I know how to do it I'll work up something more complex with a ground plane tomorrow and the next step will be trying to do a video.

It's going to be a very short one. LOL that's going to be a lot of work.

Mike

My gratitude to Toxic Wolf who told how to do the Left Right images.  1.5 inches each way from center, it works.

Well done! You can use colour - depending on the software you use to make the anaglyph depends on how well it is preserved. Your filters also affect colour. Some are stronger than others, and that will also have an effect. Things to avoid are strong reds and blues in your pictures. This causes problems as the filters cancel them out in one side and not on the other, causing a swimming or confusing image. So make sure that coloured object will show through both the red and blue filters. Also avoid plain areas. I took some stereo photos in snow, and the pictures fail as anaglyphs because the White snow effectively tells your brain that trickery is afoot, and you can see the edges of objects in a quite distracting way. Here is an example of what I mean. The lamp post at the front has red/cyan shadows against the White sky. They show up as hosts when viewed using 3D glasses. You can never fully avoid this, but minimising is is good. Background noise (sky with clouds in this instance) would help. Also note that what works for you won't work for others. I like to have anaglyphs pop immediately. Some I have seen seem to require huge amounts of effort, which us bad. Keeping your distance between cameras to a natural distance is a good idea, as is keeping the focal length of your camera. I find 35mm to 50mm gives best results.

Hi again.

Check this out....

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Here is something that I just figured out.

This image is the same on as above but I opened it in Photoshop and copy and pasted some of the spheres and placed them in the image.

Also adjusted the image a little.

Working in Photoshop in 3D is really wierd. But it lets you see in real time what you are doing to the image.

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

It works well. The big sphere is a bit disconcerting. Give me a few minutes and I'll dig out my man on a plank image. It should amuse.

OK, as promised - my “Falling” image. This was done with an earlier version of my Python “rig” and I manually built the anaglyph using Photoshop. As noted, I am getting better results from the software I mentioned earlier on. However, as I’m on holiday, I’m away from my main image store, so can’t get to the originals at the moment. I’ll see if I can build something similar here. Click the image to embiggen.

Hi

I'm using StereoPhoto Maker, it's free.

I tried a trial on one you have to buy, but this worked just as well.

You can manually register the images while you look at it full size.

Just move the slider back and forth until the ghosting disappears.

http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/index.html

You can't seem to get rid of the ghosting at all levels which made me wonder...

Can I adjust it so the ball in the foreground has no ghosting and then adjust it so the figure has no ghosting, output both sets of images, create 2 3D images.

Then, paste the image of the ball from the one with no ghosting (I already know you can paste them in) into the image that has it adjusted so that the figure has no ghosting in Photoshop making sure that the are registered with the original ball.

Sounds like it could work if you have a solid background like my test image.

I ordered some Nvidia red blue glasses from Amazon, that will fit over my computer glasses, they are cheap, I'll get rid of these cardboard ones I'm using now.

I also ordered some flip up clipons even cheaper.

I'm driving my wife crazy yelling "Come here you have to see this!"

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

PS.

By the way I like the falling image, gives me more ideas.

My final goal is to make a 3D video.  I would like to get a 3D setup for my computer with the shutter glasses eventually and do some real full color 3D.

But I have a very good monitor that has too low a refresh rate to do it.  Maybe I could get a second monitor just for 3D stuff.

I had a setup like that back when I had a old style monitor.

I'm a life long Dr Who fan.

Check this out, it's pretty neat.

http://www.3dvideoclips.net/doctor-who-the-dream-child-3d/

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

My 3D glasses are a free set I got as part of an advertising feature at the cinema. They are cardboard, but the gels in them are pretty good. They are getting a bit fragile now, but I know what the colours should look like when it comes to replace them.

Another route to go if setting up a monitor is too much (I think most LCD screens are not fast enough for shutter 3D displays, but this will change obviously) is to make stereo cards and use a viewer. Look for a book entitled A Village Lost and Found by Dr Brain May (he of Queen guitar fame - he collects stereoscopic images). The book is full of stereo images from his collection, and comes with a standard card viewer which will work with most you’ll find in antique shops. You can, of course, make your own by printing out images to the correct size and putting them in the viewer.

Mattel also make a 3D viewer for the iPhone (should you have one of those devices) and you should be able to make 3D images for that. It looks a bit like a View Master which your iPhone fits into.

I can’t check the video at the moment - I’m on a slow connection on holiday. I’ll try to remember to look when I get back home to the braodband network. Doctor Who is a life-long obsession for me too. Current series picks up very soon, I understand.

hairydalek - your falling guy image is very effective! Like your technique as well.

The book by Brian May has been featured a lot in Amateur Photographer magazine lately and his interviews make for a good read.  

re getting the basic red/blue glasses.  our local cheapy bookshop has these in kids books. In some $1  dollar books theres 2 pairs.

Pinky - you left the lens cap of your mind on again.

Try this one then. I’ve used depth of field to cue the eyes to the floating figure. It should be in front of the screen, with the ships inside behind the screen’s plane.

Both paper and plastic 3D glasses can be bought at Amazon for a reasonable price. I tried the below glasses and they work well, but a friend already broke a pair.

http://www.amazon.com/3D-Glasses-Variety-Pack-Magenta/dp/B0038ND4A4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1313616376&sr=8-6

The Elsa Revelator glasses can still be used on XP machines without an ELSA graphics card. All you need is an NVidia graphics card and their old stereo drivers. MS didn't support them in Vista, so you'd have to have kept an older computer that runs XP. NVidia now has a more expensive 3D stereo package that uses a different format and the new drivers aren't supposed to be compatible anymore with older page-flipping glasses.

http://www.nvidia.com/object/3dstereo_91.31.html

 

My visual indexes of Poser content are at http://www.sharecg.com/pf/rgagnon

Thanks gagnonrich thats really handy to now. Slowly building up a new machine and just got XP pro dual booting with 7x64 (so a lot of stuff won't run). So wonder if I can get the glasses working on that.

Pinky - you left the lens cap of your mind on again.

Hi Everyone!

I just received the new 3D glasses I ordered from Amazon.

They are clip on, flip-ups which is very handy when working on the computer.

But there was a surprise.

The red, blue lenses are the opposite of the ones I have been using.

When I looked at my image the depth was reversed and not as sharp.

I looked online and found that the new ones were correct and my old cardboard ones, which were clearly marked "This side toward face, are wrong.

I now understand why all the samples that other people are showing here look wierd. I thought you were all crazy! LOL

Now my image looks weird, and everyone elses looks great.

The new glasses are much clearer.

I'll redo my image and post it tomorrow.

Mike

PS. I purchased these two pair of glasses from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/3D-Glasses-Movies-Gaming-Require/dp/B002TXYEV2/ref=pd_sim_t_3

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HN2U7W

I have the clipons and they work great, very handy for working on the computer.

I have to wear glasses so I needed some thing that would work with them.

 

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Mike - that explains it! Reversing the filters on my glasses makes your images make sense!

Ok, here is my image made with the new glasses.

I hope this looks better!

The clarity always seems to suffer a little when they are uploaded and resized.

The original image is 1920 by 1200.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hi again.

Does anyone know of a source for 3D models of the Planets?

I'd like to have Mars the Earth Saturn, and the Moon in particular.

It seems like someone must have been tempted to do this.

I'm not sure how you create a texture for a sphere?

Is there a templet for that.

I suppose I could do it in Blacksmith 3D somehow.

Any ideas?

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Quote - Ok, here is my image made with the new glasses.

I hope this looks better!

The clarity always seems to suffer a little when they are uploaded and resized.

Much better :-) Clarity always suffers when uploading images to online hosting services. You see it more with this kind of image because you lose a fair amount because of the nature of the anaglyph. One thing to remember - your filters cause the image to be darker than you expect. If an image is too dark as an anaglyph, I'll run it through Photoshop to brighten the left/right images a bit (usually by 30 to 40%) BEFORE making the anaglyph. It's important to do any brightening at that point in the process. If you have Poser Pro,you may want to try upping the gamma in your rendering settings. I've not tried this yet, preferring Photoshop for that kind of post processing. The space ship picture wasn't corrected in this way.

Hello Mike,

   Your last trial is very good. In your post, you try to remove the ghost by moving the images with the horizontal slider in Stereo Photo Maker. In fact, moving the slider determines the position of the stereo window. Object can be in front of the window, behind the window, at window. To remove ghosts, it is better to work with contrast and brigtness in Stereo Photo Maker (SPM). In the next posts, I present various windows settings.

Allstereo

Hello,

This image demonstrates image sets at window. The right hand is just situated at the stereo window (your computer screen). Note that the hand is aligned for the red and blue images.

 

 

 

Hello,

In this image, the stereo window is set to have the hand (in fact all the right arm) in front of the stereo window. This is the classical pop-up effect. To have this effect, the far object (here the face) is aligned for the red and blue images. Test the position of the arm in front of the computer screen by moving the mouse cursor over the image.

Hello,

In this image, the stereo window is set between the face and the hand to decrease the ghosting. 

Hi

I get it now!

Your demo makes it very clear.

This image looks amazingly clear and free of ghosting.

Can you tell me exactly the process you used to create it.

What I'm doing is making two images 3" apart left to right, 1.5" each side of center.

I was testing last night and realized that having a very dark background isn't a great idea either.

I haven't really messed with the contrast etc. in Sereo Photo Maker, I'll do that today.  I have worked with contrast and brightness in Photoshop after making the image.

I do have the feeling that I would like to make the red part of the image brighter then the defualt setting, the red lens lets less light through then the cyan side.

Last night I downloaded Stereo Movie Maker and made my first animation.

It's not as hard as I thought, I just made two .avi files the same way I did with the stills and loaded them in to SMM.

But I'm going back to working with the stills until I get images comparable to what you are doing.

I've also found that the glasses make a big difference, the original cardboard glasses are not at all comparable to the clip-ons I'm using now.

When I look at the images with them they are very fuzzy, with the new glasses the images look really sharp so the lens clarity is much better.

So if anyone is interested in doing this buy some good glasses, they are very cheap, and Amazon has a wide selection.

The flip up clip-ons that i'm using work really well for working on the computer because you can switch back and forth so quickly.

Thanks for the help.

Mike

 

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hello Mike,

  Here is how I achieve my anaglyph images to decrease ghosting and preserve 3D effect. First, it is better to avoid black or white as a background. For example, in the render settings never selects black as the render background. Select a gray shader.

  As indicaed by Hairydekek, avoid red and cyan that are similar to the red and cyan of the glass filter. In this case, red or cyan in the image can remove the 3D effect because 3D effect depend on color separation. In fact, the Color Dubois anaglyph (see the Stereo Photo Maker menu) is an analglyph approach that change color to avoid this problem.

   So, in my images, I changed the red color of the T-shirt to orange. I used a gray background and I adjusted the brightness in Stereo Photo Maker. Here is how:

With your right and left image selected, in Stereo Photo Maker, select "Stereo" in the main bar, then "Color Anaglyph", then "Ghost reduced anaglyph". This selection will open the Anti-Ghost window. In upper part, first select the type of anaglyph. Half color is often a good choice. 

 Under the first histogram, move the upper arrow (brightness) to the left or right and look (with your anaglyph glass) at the image for the result (At first, move to the extreme to see the effect). Then move the lower arrow (contrast) to finalize if necessary. When finish, click on OK

 Now, when you save the stereo image, don't forget to check the case entitled "No compression ghosting". If you leave this case unchecked, some white lines will appear at the transition between red and cyan images.

 If you don't like the ghosting, learn the cross view method or purchase a carboard  stereoscope (Loreo Pixi 3D viewer ($2.50), see the link below and the image) for viewing parallel stereo pairs on computer screen.

http://www.berezin.com/3d/loreo_lite.htm

 

Hi Allstereo

Thanks for the info.

I'll print this out and go through it tomorrow.

I got another pair of glasses.

These are also from Amazon and are listed as being from Nvidia though I see no evidence of that on the package or glasses.

However they do work better then the set I'm using now.

The Blue lens is denser and the Red lens is lighter and they seem to feel more comfortable on the eyes.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hi Again

Here's something that's kind of fun!

Take a 3D game that will let you get a first person view.

Frame your shot, and make a screen capture and name it Left Eye.

Use the strafe button to move the camera position to the right a little, and make another screen shot. Name it Right Eye.

Open the pictures in 3D Picture Makers and process them.

These are from Age of Conan...

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hello Mike,

    Very good, particulary the second one.

Hi

The first one suffered a little more from being uploaded for some reason.

I just looked at them side by side and the original looks a lot sharper, while the second one looks only a little blurrier then the original.

The second one is more dramatic though, and the fact that it has less color seems to help.

Now I'm wondering if there is any way that I could insert a poser figure into one.

Tricky with the double image but I'll give it a try and see wheat happens.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hi, all,

I’ve uploaded my Python scripts for you to have a go with. Youll find them on my Anaglyph pages, which I’ve updated, here:

http://www.worldofpaul.com/anaglyph/

The system was built in Poser Pro on a Mac. I’ve no reason to assume that it won’t work on Windows, but I can’t say for sure.

You’ll need to manually install it in your Runtime folder, and link up a button to the buttons.py file in the folder of scripts you will have downloaded. After that, it’s just a case of setting up a scene, hitting a button and making the anaglyph from the reuslting left & right images you get.

Have fun!

Hi Hairy

I'll check it out, I don't understand any of the Python Script stuff so I guess it's time to learn.

Here is another image that I made in Age of Conan.

I thought I got the color to work better in this one.

I've experimented with inserting a Poser figure but it would only work with the figure at the plane not if you tried to have the figure have any depth.

But I have another idea about inserting the figure into both the left and right images before the Anaglyph is made. My only concern is how to place the figure in both images in the correct location, since the background images have already been moved where do I put the figure in the left and right image.

I'll try that tomorow.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

bad news! 3D devices (televisions) sales are lower than forecast, due to lack of consumer interest, as well as depression in euro-zone/american economy. :crying:

Hi

I haven't tried viewing any of the 3D stuff I've done and collected on my HD TV yet.

I have searched for good Anaglyph images and have found quite a few really high quality images that are very clear.

I've put them all in a folder and I've ordered 4 more sets of anaglyph glasses.

Next week when we have company for dinner I'm going to have a slide show, on the TV if it works well.

I know the stuff looks great on my monitor.

Here's one I liked a lot.

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Quote - Hi Hairy

I'll check it out, I don't understand any of the Python Script stuff so I guess it's time to learn.

Not much to learn from your end - just out the scripts in your Runtime/Python folder and link up a button in the Python script window. That's it. The rests all controlled through Poser's regular interface. There are a few good reasons 3D TV hasn't taken off: 1 - the need for glasses. This is a big obstacle, and glasses from a Sony set won't work on a Panasonic, etc., so if you have friend round to watch a 3D film, you'll need to invest in extra sets of glasses. They're not cheap. Glasses free 3D TV will see mor eu take, but I think we have a decade to wait. 2 - If, like me, you bought an HD TV, why should I buy another set so soon? HD TV took off about a year before thebfirst 3D TV sets appeared. 3 - Content. A lot of 3D stuff is pretty poor because it's not been made using dedicate 3D kit, rather it's been converted in post. So the majority of 3D films have not sold the idea of 3D I. The home. There hasn't been the killer film yet. I doubt there will be as film makers are learning about the process. Avatar was an excellent technical demo, but the story was no less engaging in 2D, and on the face of it pretty shallow. I could go on. I like 3D,but it's not ready for primetime yet.

Hi 

I just tried running the 3D images through my 42" HD TV.

It works up to a point but there is a distinct double image that I don't see on  my Computer Monitor, a Dell Ultra Sharp 24".

Both of them run at the same basic resolution, 1920 by 1200 for the monitor and 1920 by 1080 for the TV.

It automaticlly adjusts for the difference somehow so the images aren't distorted when I run the images as a slide show.

Any idea why I get the double image on the TV and not on the Monitor?

I was going to show my pictures on the TV but I guess I'll stick with the Monitor for now.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hello Mike,

   Effectively, you have to place the figure in each image to have a depth effect of the figure. How, just put it at same distance from a point in figure that is at the correct depth.

   About 3DTV, I recently purchased a passive LG 3DTV and my stereo photos or Poser compositions look fantastic.  You have to have cheap polarized glasses as at the Cinema. In fact, four are included with the TV set. If you have a chance to test that Passive 3DTV at your local dealer, try it and you will understand what I mean. 

Hi

I'm going to try and import a left and right image that I make in Age of Conan and then place the Poser Character in the foreground.

Since I can change the Image in the background instantly without affecting the Poser figure the only part I'm not sure about is how I should move the Poser or camera right left.

I think that I can probably just ignore the fact that the background images are different and move it the way I normally would.

Since the backgrounds aren't really in the image anyway I guess they will just come out the way they went in.

Right now I'm trying to set up Hairydalek's Python Script.

I'll get back to the forum later with results.

Mike

 

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hi Hairy

I'd swear that this is the third time I have posted this. I must be losing it!

I have a couple of questions about your Stereo Python Script.

I took me a while to get it to work, I found that after I use it I have to click the setup button and then the render button, before it will work again, don't know if this is normal or not but it works as long as I do it that way.

My problem is that every time I use it and then go back to the Main screen, the Stereo Button has disappeared, and I have to set it up all over again.

How do I get the button to become permanent?

Second by default it saves the images in Photoshop .psd format.

Is there a way to have it save in .tiff or .jpg format that Stereo Picture Maker can read?  The way it is now I have to open them all in Photoshop and convert them.

Other then that it is working great.

Here's a  test image I did with it.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hi Allstereo

I didn't know that you could use Polarized glasses with TV.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hello Mike,

     Your could use it with 3DTV that generated polarized images such as LG 3DTV (Not all LG 3DTV but those that are said to be passive.

   To look at your images on these TV, you have to convert your side by side image to the MPO format using StereoPhoto Maker.

 

  

Quote - Hi Hairy

I'd swear that this is the third time I have posted this. I must be losing it!

I have a couple of questions about your Stereo Python Script.

I took me a while to get it to work, I found that after I use it I have to click the setup button and then the render button, before it will work again, don't know if this is normal or not but it works as long as I do it that way.

Not sure I follow here. You only need to click the Set Up button once. After than, you only need to click the Render button. Clicking Set Up again will probably force more than one convergence plane to be created, and that could confuse it.

 

Quote - My problem is that every time I use it and then go back to the Main screen, the Stereo Button has disappeared, and I have to set it up all over again. How do I get the button to become permanent?

I have no idea. To be honest, I’ve never done it that way. I’ve manually edited the .py file with button definitions in it. I see what you mean though - the buttons just reset.

Alternatively, you can put the Stereo Images folder in

Runtime/Python/poserScripts/

Do this before you start Poser up.

It will appear in the Scripts menu - you’ll get all the scripts in there, not just the ones that the buttons link to. I’ll have to clean up some of them so that you only get the scripts you need. Until then, the scripts you need are:

Set Up
Render
Render-Queue
reset

The rest can be safely ignored. 

Quote - Second by default it saves the images in Photoshop .psd format. Is there a way to have it save in .tiff or .jpg format that Stereo Picture Maker can read?  The way it is now I have to open them all in Photoshop and convert them.

You’ll need to edit the file called Render.py

1- Open it in a plain text editor - Notepad (Windows) or TextWrangler (on a Mac - I happen to use this app’s bigger brother BBEdit)

2 - Locate this line:

fileType="psd"

3 - Change it to

fileType="png"

And save.

Quote - Other then that it is working great. Here's a  test image I did with it.

Mike

Great! Looks like you have the left/right images the wrong way round though! It works great if I swap my glasses over!

Hope this all helps you - as I said, I’m using Poser Pro 2010 on a Mac. I’ve no way of testing this on Windows, so I’m stabbing in the dark a bit here.

Hi - just uploaded a newer version of the scripts with the png file type put in. Just download, and replace the Stereo Images folder with the new one and restart Poser.

No need for you to edit anything!

Hi Hairy

Thanks I'll do that, though I'm comfortable with editing the file. 

The red cyan doesn't look reversed to me, and I'm using my normal glasses.

Red on the Left Eye.

Ah: I get what you mean, you think the ball should be in the front.

Actually the ball wan't part of the image at all, I put it in, in Photoshop just as a test.

Interesting that when I reverse the glasses it comes to the front, it doesn't have a red cyan componet at all.

I guess everything else moved to the back!

I still need to figure out a way to make the Stereo button permenent.

It kind of misses the point of making it easy if I have to set it all up each time.

It seems like once it's created it should stay there.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

You will need to edit the python file that makes the buttons to point to my buttons.py file if you want the Python Scripts button to stay permanent.

I’ve no way of testing this on Windows, so I’m stabbing in the dark a bit here.

Hope you can get it working on older versions, sadly no go on P6 PC, as I'd like to try using your excellent idea with a tri-layered prop I've made which fakes DOF.

Pinky - you left the lens cap of your mind on again.

Hi Guys

I have everthing else working now.

I'll look into modifing the file tomorrow.

Here's a sample...

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Quote - I’ve no way of testing this on Windows, so I’m stabbing in the dark a bit here.

Hope you can get it working on older versions, sadly no go on P6 PC, as I'd like to try using your excellent idea with a tri-layered prop I've made which fakes DOF.

The best I can do is provide an earlier prop which was part of my development cycle. It started in the version of Poser prior to Poser Pro 2010, so it may do the job. It gives you three cameras and the convergence prop. If this works, then you’ve atleast got a starting point to play with.

http://www.worldofpaul.com/anaglyph/olderversion.html

Download, put it in your Runtime/Library/Props folder. Hopefully this will work, but a lot of the Python magic won’t be there - you’ll need to copy camera settings manually. Sorry, but this is about as far as I can go for older versions. I’m running Mac OSX Lion now, and that’s a bit problematic for Poser pro 2010. I doubt it will run P6 as that will be PPC code, which Lion does  not support.

Thanks for that, downloaded and will have a play shortly.

Though a quick question. When you say lion can't run PPC code, is that like a Win 7 pc not being able to run XP stuff?

Pinky - you left the lens cap of your mind on again.

When Apple moved from PPC Chips (G3, G4, G5) to Intel, it meant that no code built for older Macs would run on the newer Intel architecture. Developers were encouraged to create what was called universal binaries - applications would contain code for both architectures. Apps that were PPC only would be run through a translation layer known as Rosetta - which converted PPC code to Intel code. Lion does not support Rosetta, so PPC only apps won't work. The expectation now is that there is either an Intel native code version of the software, or that it's been abandoned.

Hi Hairy

Can you tell me which file I need to edit to make a permanant button for Stereo.

I have a lot of buttons, that I never have used, if I could substitute Stereo for one of those then I would be all set, I just need to know what points to it.

I tried putting the Stereo folder in a lot of locations, oddly while other folders in the same category show up in the Python palete the ones I place don't.

I thought that the whole idea of the Python thing was to be able to add you own scripts.

This is what my main Palette looks like right now, as you can see there is only one open space.

I've never used any of these, I guess I never bothered to figure out what they do.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hi Guys

I found this...

http://artzone.daz3d.com/wiki/doku.php/pub/tutorials/poser/poser-misc33

I spent several hours trying to get it to work, but no luck.

I have to say that this was written about an older version of Poser and the files are not in the locations that it states, but it seems like it should work.

But I always get an Error Message that says the line I inserted in the mainButton.py file is not correct.

poser.DefineScriptButton(9, ”:Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:CustomScripts:customButtons.py”, “Custom Scripts”)

I've had it for tonight, maybe I will see if this will work in Poser 6 tomorrow.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Here is the message that I get...

D:Poser 8RuntimePythonPoserScriptsposerStartup.py:14: DeprecationWarning: Non-ASCII character 'x94' in file D:Poser

8RuntimePythonPoserScriptsmainButtons.py on line 11, but no encoding declared; see http://www.python.org/peps/pep-0263.html for details
poser.ExecFile(mainButtonsPath)

File "D:Poser 8RuntimePythonPoserScriptsmainButtons.py", line 11
poser.DefineScriptButton(9, ”:Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:CustomScripts:customButtons.py”, “Custom Scripts”)
^
SyntaxError: invalid syntax

 

Here is the complete mainButtons file...

 

import poser

poser.DefineScriptButton(1, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:PhilC:Wardrobe Wizard P8:Wardrobe Wizard Menu.py", "Wardrobe Wizard")
poser.DefineScriptButton(2, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:GeomMods:geomModButtons.py", "Geom Mods")
poser.DefineScriptButton(3, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:Utility:utilityButtons.py", "Utility Funcs")
poser.DefineScriptButton(4, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:SampleCallbacks:callbackButtons.py", "Sample Callbacks")
poser.DefineScriptButton(5, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:RenderControl:renderButtons.py", "Render / IO")
poser.DefineScriptButton(6, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:MaterialMods:materialModButtons.py", "Material Mods")
poser.DefineScriptButton(7, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:PrintInfo:printInfoButtons.py", "Print Info")
poser.DefineScriptButton(8, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:CreateProps:propButtons.py", "Prop Samples")
poser.DefineScriptButton(9, ”:Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:CustomScripts:customButtons.py”, “Custom Scripts”)
poser.DefineScriptButton(10, ":Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:clearButtons.py", "Clear Buttons")

 

If this makes sense to you guys I'm open to suggestions.

Mike

 

 

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

And lastly, here is my customButton.py file pointing to the Stereo script. 

 

import poser

 

poser.DefineScriptButton(1, ”:Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:StereoImages:Stereo.py”,

 

poser.DefineScriptButton(2, ””, ”…”)

 

poser.DefineScriptButton(3, ””, ”…”)

 

poser.DefineScriptButton(4, ””, ”…”)

 

poser.DefineScriptButton(5, ””, ”…”)

 

poser.DefineScriptButton(6, ””, ”…”)

 

poser.DefineScriptButton(7, ””, ”…”)

 

poser.DefineScriptButton(8, ””, ”…”)

 

poser.DefineScriptButton(9, ””, ”…”)

 

poser.DefineScriptButton(10, ”:Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:mainButtons.py”, “Main”)

 

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Quote - Here is the message that I get...

D:Poser 8RuntimePythonPoserScriptsposerStartup.py:14: DeprecationWarning: Non-ASCII character 'x94' in file D:Poser

8RuntimePythonPoserScriptsmainButtons.py on line 11, but no encoding declared; see http://www.python.org/peps/pep-0263.html for details
poser.ExecFile(mainButtonsPath)

File "D:Poser 8RuntimePythonPoserScriptsmainButtons.py", line 11
poser.DefineScriptButton(9, ”:Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:CustomScripts:customButtons.py”, “Custom Scripts”)
^
SyntaxError: invalid syntax

 

Here is the complete mainButtons file...

 

import poser

poser.DefineScriptButton(1, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:PhilC:Wardrobe Wizard P8:Wardrobe Wizard Menu.py", "Wardrobe Wizard")
poser.DefineScriptButton(2, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:GeomMods:geomModButtons.py", "Geom Mods")
poser.DefineScriptButton(3, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:Utility:utilityButtons.py", "Utility Funcs")
poser.DefineScriptButton(4, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:SampleCallbacks:callbackButtons.py", "Sample Callbacks")
poser.DefineScriptButton(5, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:RenderControl:renderButtons.py", "Render / IO")
poser.DefineScriptButton(6, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:MaterialMods:materialModButtons.py", "Material Mods")
poser.DefineScriptButton(7, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:PrintInfo:printInfoButtons.py", "Print Info")
poser.DefineScriptButton(8, ":Runtime:Python:poserScripts:CreateProps:propButtons.py", "Prop Samples")
poser.DefineScriptButton(9, ”:Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:CustomScripts:customButtons.py”, “Custom Scripts”)
poser.DefineScriptButton(10, ":Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:clearButtons.py", "Clear Buttons")

 

If this makes sense to you guys I'm open to suggestions.

Mike

 

I’ve not seen these errors, and I’ll put my hands up and say that I’m not a Python expert - I’m usually ghrubbing around with JavaScript and the like. However, it looks like your quotation marks are wrong. Look at these two lines from your script:

Quote - poser.DefineScriptButton(9, ”:Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:CustomScripts:customButtons.py”, “Custom Scripts”)
poser.DefineScriptButton(10, ":Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:clearButtons.py", "Clear Buttons")

In your edited version for button 9, the quotes are curly - “” - often called typographer’s quotes. When writing code, you don’t use these. It’s likely that your editor put put these in automatically. You need to switch this feature off - something you’ll need to find out how to do for your self. It will probably be in preferences.

You need to be using what are known as sexless quotes - "" - so your line should look like this:

Quote - poser.DefineScriptButton(9, ":Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:CustomScripts:customButtons.py", "Custom Scripts")
poser.DefineScriptButton(10, ":Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:clearButtons.py", "Clear Buttons")

Python is also sensitive to tabs and indentations - they have special meanings to the interpreter, so ensure that you don’t have any leading spaces or tabs in your buttons files.

Also pay attention to the software you are using for editing the Python scripts. Use a plain text editor - I think NotePad should do the job on Windows. Always save the file as a plain text file, not as Rich Text. Rich Text embeds layout and colour instructions in the file which may cause the Python interpreter to fall over too.

EDIT: Just tried your added line on a buttons file here, and I got the same error. Using sexless quotes fixed the problem.

Hi

Thanks I'll try and figure out how to do that.

I'm using Wordpad and I'm copying the insert directly from the article.

I'll look into the sexless quotes thing.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Quote - Hi

Thanks I'll try and figure out how to do that.

I'm using Wordpad and I'm copying the insert directly from the article.

I'll look into the sexless quotes thing.

Mike

Wordpad will probably add in control characters (colour, font styles, etc) that may confuse the Python interpreter. If it can, tell it to save the file as plain text (not Rich Text). Or use NotePad.

Hi Hairy

That is the problem. I now have a Custom Scripts button on the Python palette.

I did that by typing in to the existing file without replacing the quotes.

So they didn't change it to the ones that Wordpad puts in.

Now I'm having the same problem with my customButtons file.

And I can't use the same solution because there isn't an original file to modify.

I see the error "Non Ascii Character in the error dialog.

I'll see if anyone on the Windows 7 Forum knows how to stop Wordpad from doing this.  And I'll try and find Notepad, I haven't seen that it ages.

But I'm one step closer.

Thanks for the help.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

I haven't followed whole thread but I think it'd be easier to copy "stereo images" folder into python script menu folder (that's from my computer: c:Program Files (x86)Smith MicroPoser 8RuntimePythonposerScriptsScriptsMenu) - now you can easily access every script by pressing ALT S (top bar python script menu) or even assign some keyboard shortcuts to them.

Hi Again

Ok the Custom Scripts button is there.

I'm now using Notepad! I think that solved the problem with the quotes but I'm not sure, I'm still getting the same kind of error message.

When I click it I get this message...

sys:1: DeprecationWarning: Non-ASCII character 'x94' in file D:Poser 8RuntimePythonPoserScriptsCustomScriptscustomButtons.py on line 3, but no encoding declared; see http://www.python.org/peps/pep-0263.html for details

File "D:Poser 8RuntimePythonPoserScriptsCustomScriptscustomButtons.py", line 3
poser.DefineScriptButton(1,:Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:StereoImages:Stereo.py”, ”StereoImage”)
^
SyntaxError: invalid syntax

Here is my file customButtons.py file...

import poser

poser.DefineScriptButton(1, ”:Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:StereoImages:Stereo.py”, ”StereoImage”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(2, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(3, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(4, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(5, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(6, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(7, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(8, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(9, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(10, ”:Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:mainButtons.py”, “Main”)

Here is my directory structure...

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

PS.

I get the same error message if I remove my command from the file.

sys:1: DeprecationWarning: Non-ASCII character 'x94' in file D:Poser 8RuntimePythonPoserScriptsCustomScriptscustomButtons.py on line 3, but no encoding declared; see http://www.python.org/peps/pep-0263.html for details

File "D:Poser 8RuntimePythonPoserScriptsCustomScriptscustomButtons.py", line 3
poser.DefineScriptButton(1, ””, ”…”)
^
SyntaxError: invalid syntax

Here is the file with the command removed...

import poser

poser.DefineScriptButton(1, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(2, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(3, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(4, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(5, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(6, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(7, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(8, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(9, ””, ”…”)

poser.DefineScriptButton(10, ”:Runtime:Python:PoserScripts:mainButtons.py”, “Main”)

I expected it to open the palette with all of the buttons blank?

Thanks again for the help.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hi Adom

I'll give that a try too!

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Doing easy things the hard way!!!

I did what Adom suggested and it was even simpler then he said.

I removed all my other files, copied the StereoImages folder, that I had the script buttons in, to the Scriptsmenu folder and what do you know! 

An easy way to access Hairy's script!

I don't have a button on the Palette, but all I have to do it click on scripts at the top of the screen and the Stereo Images folder is right there.

When I click on it all or the options are available, Setup, Render, Reset, etc.

I've tried it several time and it works fine, I don't even have to hit Alt S or whatever.

Thanks to everyone for all the help!!!

Two weeks ago I asked if it was possible to create stereo images in Poser and now I'm doing it. Sounds like a TV commercial!

I now have 7 pairs of Anaglyph Glasses, and am driving everyone crazy saying "Hey, you gotta come and look at this". LOL

Now I'll get on with perfecting my still image technique, and then it's on to my real goal, creating a 3D Lucy movie.  I only started doing the video thing less then a year ago, and now I'm going to do it in 3D!

I'll have to send 3D glasses to all of the friends on my Lucy email list so they can watch it.  But the glasses are really cheap, I just bought 5 pairs for $10 shipping included, I have 4 different kinds, I'm going to decide which I like best.

Thanks again for the help.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Quote - Doing easy things the hard way!!!

I did what Adom suggested and it was even simpler then he said.

I removed all my other files, copied the StereoImages folder, that I had the script buttons in, to the Scriptsmenu folder and what do you know! 

An easy way to access Hairy's script!

I don't have a button on the Palette, but all I have to do it click on scripts at the top of the screen and the Stereo Images folder is right there.

When I click on it all or the options are available, Setup, Render, Reset, etc.

I've tried it several time and it works fine, I don't even have to hit Alt S or whatever.

Thanks to everyone for all the help!!!

Two weeks ago I asked if it was possible to create stereo images in Poser and now I'm doing it. Sounds like a TV commercial!

I now have 7 pairs of Anaglyph Glasses, and am driving everyone crazy saying "Hey, you gotta come and look at this". LOL

Now I'll get on with perfecting my still image technique, and then it's on to my real goal, creating a 3D Lucy movie.  I only started doing the video thing less then a year ago, and now I'm going to do it in 3D!

I'll have to send 3D glasses to all of the friends on my Lucy email list so they can watch it.  But the glasses are really cheap, I just bought 5 pairs for $10 shipping included, I have 4 different kinds, I'm going to decide which I like best.

Thanks again for the help.

Mike

 

Glad you got it working. Have fun and post your results!

Oh, added the Script Menu option to my website. Next thing to think about is movies. I am not sure that I can auto render movies in the same way that I can do single frames using Python. What I think I can do is copy keyframe settings (focus depth, etc) from the Dolly camera to the left/right cameras. That will at least make it easy to render a left and right movie. Question - what do you use to make anaglyph movies once you do have the left & right movies?

Hi Hairy

If you decided to make a script for movies please make it an option to render them in preview mode.

I never render my movies in Firefly it just takes too long.

It's much faster to render them a little larger then you are going to use them and then when they are reduced they look pretty good.

Sometimes I do 3 or 4 thousand frames in one clip, it I rendered them even at a low level of Firefly render they take forever.

I did a simple test, the basic robot figure rotating 1 revolution in 60 seconds.

In preview mode it took 20 seconds to make an .AVI.

In low level Firefly it took 2 minutes and 10 seconds.

And then you have to do it twice, imagine doing even 600 frames with several things to render in it.

I'm guessing that you could perhaps do two versions and simply change the line that specifies how it's rendered. But I don't know anything about how the scripting works.

Thanks again for the help, your script works great I'm going to seriously start making tests now and figure out just how I do this before I start doing movies.

I have a lot of thing I want to try out.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

PS.

I wonder if you could write a script that simply placed the cameras.

When activate it would Asked Left or Right Camera, and then proceded to do the rest of it normally it would be a big help.

I.e I set up my scene, I hit Stereo Movie.

I select Setup, and then Render just as I do with a still frame.

Then a dialog comes up and asks me, Left or Right Camera.  

I select Left Camera, and it goes to the normal poser "Make Movie dialog, lets me make my selections, and continue from there normally that would be great help.

When I hit "Make Movie it does it only for the Left Camera, then when I repeat the process and select Right Camera my setting will already be there, and do it again.

This would let the user make all the choices about how to render the image, check the first animation video before going on with the second one.

But it would automate setting up the cameras, so the two images would work together corectly.

Just an idea, like I said I have no idea how this works or if this is a practical idea.

Mike

 

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hi again.

I just saw your question at the bottom or your post.

I use Stereo Movie Maker, it's from the same folks that make Stereo Picture Maker and works the same way, it just asks for the file for the left eye and then the one for the right eye then puts them together doing all the Anaglyph stuff automatically.

I'll do a short animation and post it tomorrow, so you can see how it works.

I've only tried it a couple of times but it seems to work fine.

Mike

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Quote - PS.

I wonder if you could write a script that simply placed the cameras.

When activate it would Asked Left or Right Camera, and then proceded to do the rest of it normally it would be a big help.

I.e I set up my scene, I hit Stereo Movie.

I select Setup, and then Render just as I do with a still frame.

Then a dialog comes up and asks me, Left or Right Camera.  

I select Left Camera, and it goes to the normal poser "Make Movie dialog, lets me make my selections, and continue from there normally that would be great help.

When I hit "Make Movie it does it only for the Left Camera, then when I repeat the process and select Right Camera my setting will already be there, and do it again.

This would let the user make all the choices about how to render the image, check the first animation video before going on with the second one.

But it would automate setting up the cameras, so the two images would work together corectly.

Just an idea, like I said I have no idea how this works or if this is a practical idea.

Mike

 

Hi, I don't know how or if Python offers that level of control for rendering movies in Poser. I suspect that it may not do that. I have not seen a script that tajes options from you and then passes them back into the app's regular interface in the way you describe. It may be that all I can do is rig up the key frames and let you do the left/right rendering manually. I'll have to do some research on this subject. Thanks for the info on the software.

Hello Mike and Hairy,

   Just to remember you that I wrote Python scripts to make stereoscopic images and movies. See the links in one of my previous messages.

   The script for image generation creates left and right images for parallel cameras. Compare to Hairy python script, this script offers a choice of the stereo base (distance between cameras) but the setting of the stereo window should be done in Stereo Photo Maker. In Hairy script, the stereo window is set by the convergence of cameras (not a bad approach).

   The script for movie generation creates left and right movies from parallel cameras. However, you have to set the auxilary camera before the animation. See the instructions in the ReadMe file.

   Mike, if you want to try my movie script, just be familiar with the script that generates images.  Then process with the script that generates movies.

   The movie script is not always working perfectly. So, the movie can be done manually by following process.

1. First, copy all the parameters of the main camera to the auxillary camera (focal length, x, y and z dolly, etc). You can do that by copy-paste mode or manually for each parameters.

2. Move the auxillary camera to the right (Dolly X) by the stereobase of your choice (See the read me file for image generator for suggestions). Be careful not to change any other parameters).

3. Parented the auxilary camera to the main camera. Now, be careful, you have to work only with the main camera until you render the animation. So close everything related to auxillary camera (Parameter palette and viewing window if you have select the auxillary camera as the working camera).

4. Create your animation using the main camera (Never change things to the auxillary camera)

5. Render your movie for the main camera (left movie) and then for the auxillary camera (right movie). Save it with different name

6. Now, you have the left and right movies. You can process them with Stereo Movie Maker

I have to leave for one week, so I will not be able to respond to your maild until that. Will do after if you need advice.

  Good luck

 

   

Quote - The script for image generation creates left and right images for parallel cameras. Compare to Hairy python script, this script offers a choice of the stereo base (distance between cameras) but the setting of the stereo window should be done in Stereo Photo Maker. In Hairy script, the stereo window is set by the convergence of cameras (not a bad approach).

The convergence issue has been something I’ve found out about from using my stereoscopic camera. On that (it’s a Fuji) you can adjust what it refers to as “parallax” - or stereo base. The problme with doing this post phot taking is that the image starts to be cropped width-wise as image data that won’t be included in the 3D image gets lost. I find this if I import my MPOs into conversion software and make the same adjustments there.

I have seen a lot of images out there which are very hard to look at - you really have to force your eyes to “see” the 3D, and most of the time it appears that this has happened because the stereo base has been adjusted so much that it starts to be meaningless to your biology (ie the distance between your eyes). I am a firm believer that there should be no eye strain at all, and that when you drop the red/blue filters over your eyes, the scene should “pop” without any extra work needed.

This has been my approach - keep the left/right cameras within a comfortable distance for the viewer (and for this, I mean the distance should be fairly close to the physical distance between your eyes), and let them do what your eyes do naturally to generate a 3D image in your brain - that is to swivel inwards to a point (usually the point of focus). Your brain then gets the two pictures and snaps it into some kind of sense.

That’s the methodology behind my scripts - trying to keep it as comfortable as possible for the viewer.

Hello Hairy,

    Good points. When I wrote the script, I did some research on the net to find the difference between the parallel and convergent settings. Apparently, the parallel adjustment is better because convergence can generate Keystone effect. However, my tests in Poser didn't reveal big difference. Moreover, I read that keystone can be corrected by modern software. So, practically, the two approaches are acceptable. Personnaly, I prefer to have a choice of the stereobase (see below my point of view on that)

  About the stereobase adjustment. First, parallax and stereo base are not the same thing. They are related by the fact that parallax increases when stereobase increases for the same scene setting (Bercovitz formula). You can have the same parallax for different stereobase by working also with the distance between camera and objects in the scene (distance as such or focal length).

   A large stereobase didn't imply bad viewing. For example, at IMAX or on some still photos, you have probably seen landscape (Example: the Grand Canyon) with depth details that human eye cannot perceive. They are confortable and interesting to see. In the case of Poser, increasing the stereobase can be useful if you want to reveal depth of various body parts relative to each other. For example, if you look at my figures in this thread, the stereobase was 20 cm. For me, these anaglyphs are quite confortable to see.  One basic rule in stereography is to select a stereobase equal to 1/30 of the nearest object in the scene. Obviously, the stereobase cannot be changed for a physical camera (Fudji), but in Poser no problem at all. 

Hi, all!

I’ve uploaded a newer version of the scripts. The folder you download replaces the folder you downloaded before. This version allows you to control the distance bertween cameras. There is a control on the Convergence Plane for this. Set this to the desired number and render.

Note that if you set the number too big, the scene may not work properly. It’s up to you to decide the best settings.

If you set the value and want to see the views from the left/right cameras, click on the Set Cameras button in the Python Scripts Window (or the Scripts Menu) first.

Hi Guys

I've been playing around with Allstereo's movie script.

I'm going to do more today, I have has some weird things happen, i.e. when I move the character away from or toward the camera the images don't converge or separate.

I think I'm doing something wrong somewhere.

In one test the stereo effect disappeared for the second half of a 120 frame video.

I'll come back with some samples when I have more info.

Allstereo's script seems to work well; I just have to get aquainted with how to use it.

Hairy, I'll download your new scripts and paste them in!

Mike

 

If you shoot a mime, do you need a silencer?

Hello Mike,

    Yes, I know the script is not working well everytime.  The complexity of the script is related to the displacement of the camera during the animation. If your animation don't involve camera displacement, it is easy to generate the left and right movie clips. First, set Poser so that the cameras are not part of the movie (The Key Icon for the camera choice setting should be red). Take the main camera and generate one movie (say the left). Move the main camera to the right (Dolly X) by an appropriate amount, this is your stereobase and generate the right movie clip. Now you can process is Stereo Movie Maker.

    As soon as possible, I will work again with my script in order to help you.

   

I tried this with my system. It’s not great, and I think that the camera is moving too quickly and sweeping too much which kind of kills the 3D for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nxc5ahkdj_U

I don’t have Windows running on the machine I’m using right now, so I faffed around in Final Cut Express and did some channel mixing. This is also a preview quality render. I may try it using ray tracing. That’s for another day.

In theory (note the word “theory”), it should be possible to make a rig in Poser that creates the anaglyph optically at the time of rendering. You’d need some very specific objects - effectively an anaglyph converted fro the camera you were using. You’d need to create a beamsplitter (which is a half-silvered glass mirror) to allow only 50% of the light through one side and combine it in such a way that the camerra sees the ready-made anaglyph.

Position this to the donny camera and parent it properly, and you’ll have a rig that can be moved, animated etc. without any need for Python intervention. It would only need one render cycle, and no need for specific software to combine the two images in post.

That’s the theory.