EClark1894 opened this issue on Sep 08, 2013 · 77 posts
EClark1894 posted Sun, 08 September 2013 at 8:07 PM
I work security at some events and occasionally football games. This weekend and last I happened to be working security for the NC State football game and I notice that a LOT of the women in attendance were wearing Cowboy boots. So I thought, hey, Roxy needs a new pair of boots!
I'm still making refinements as I try to make them better, but consarn it! I just can't get the textures to look right!
Oh well back to Blender.
ssgbryan posted Sun, 08 September 2013 at 8:24 PM
I like the boots.
unbroken-fighter posted Sun, 08 September 2013 at 8:50 PM
look at the seams that you have , the seams are incorrect
all western boots are seamed along both sides of the upper and lower parts on the sides
the lower and upper are each made of 2 parts and are seperate as well, the boot straps are also seperate pieces
im attatching a pic that will help show the seperate materials and where the seams should be
LaurieA posted Sun, 08 September 2013 at 9:29 PM
Hehehe...texturing isn't hard, and even less so when ya got good uvs. What's your uvs look like? And what are you using to do your textures (the program)?
Laurie
EClark1894 posted Sun, 08 September 2013 at 9:35 PM
LaurieA posted Sun, 08 September 2013 at 9:53 PM
You use Blender, right? Makes much nicer uvs ;). Takes practice to make good uvs, but practice makes perfect and it's worth learning :D The flatter they are the better...and clothes are a snap because you can cut them up just like a pattern.
Laurie
EClark1894 posted Sun, 08 September 2013 at 9:58 PM
LaurieA posted Sun, 08 September 2013 at 10:18 PM
Quote - But... texturing is HARD!!!
meatSim posted Sun, 08 September 2013 at 10:27 PM
yeah if you mark your UV seams exactly where the cloth would be sewn then your UVs should come out fairly flat.. afterall those pieces of cloth would lay flat right?
Stitch witch is a handy tool to help layout and match up stitching and cloth textures.
One thing is to try to make sure you scale your UVs proportioanly if your program allows it, that way any patter you use will match up nicely with itself.
I try to use base cloth textures (look for photoshp tutorials) in greyscale with colour being added in a separate layer, that way you can use your greyscale texture as a bump. Ive had good success with some things and I now use almost no image resources in my textures.
unbroken-fighter posted Sun, 08 September 2013 at 10:52 PM
the maps for the boots would actualy be easy to do if the mesh has the right topology
also it depends on what version of blender you are using to say how clean the maps would be
markschum posted Sun, 08 September 2013 at 11:05 PM
the material zones will help guide the texture map as unbroken-fighter has said.
texturing is easy , excellent uv mapping and texturing is much tougher. I would learn to uv map in blender. Free uv mapper is limited in the type of mapping.
EClark1894 posted Sun, 08 September 2013 at 11:37 PM
All in all though this is the best pair of foot wear I've ever made. Hopefull I'll get better.
unbroken-fighter posted Mon, 09 September 2013 at 12:12 AM
not trying to pick on ya but this looks like a monomesh and you will never get the results you need like that
i dont have the model that you are using as a form and i dont have the boots mesh but the fixes are actauly easy and would give you a better end result
look at the reference image i posted for a guide as to the seams and the seperated pieces
making the actual textures is easy to some but the mapping is dependant on the topology
ill look around for a mesh that i can use a a pic based tut for blender for laying out the seams
EClark1894 posted Mon, 09 September 2013 at 12:29 AM
unbroken-fighter posted Mon, 09 September 2013 at 12:47 AM
monomesh, unimesh means a 1 piece mesh that is joined at the seams instead of seperated as you would see in the real world version
for example take a car body that has the entire body as 1 mesh and the fenders are only MATZONES instead of being individual parts
the straps on the boots should be made as a total of 4 pieces, the uppers as 4 and the lowers as 4
the more pieces that are availible that match the seams you tend to be able to make better maps because you do not have to comply with a warped map
its difficult to explain without the mesh and id bet you are getting more confused everytime you try because everyone has their own level of use, ive been using blender since it was about a week old so im more experienced in it but its all still basic modeling if you just dont over think it
EClark1894 posted Mon, 09 September 2013 at 12:50 AM
LaurieA posted Mon, 09 September 2013 at 7:29 AM
There's also one on Blender Cookie :D
http://cgcookie.com/blender/cgc-courses/creating-a-shoe-in-blender/
Laurie
EClark1894 posted Mon, 09 September 2013 at 8:15 AM
That's actually the one I meant. I watch the first part of it and saw a few things that I'd like to try. Modeling in layers and the snap to thing seems interesting. But that will have to be for future projects. I'm going to clean up the mess on this mesh as best I can and move on.
LaurieA posted Mon, 09 September 2013 at 8:38 AM
Fair 'nuff ;)
Laurie
EClark1894 posted Mon, 09 September 2013 at 3:26 PM
TrekkieGrrrl posted Mon, 09 September 2013 at 3:31 PM
I think they look great :)
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Netherworks posted Mon, 09 September 2013 at 4:59 PM
Yep, UV is important, particularly trying to lay it out just like it would be if all the parts were not sewn together... then you can just texture in the actual seams like it was sewn together. Make a selection around the edge and run a stitching look in a new layer. You might have to keep your selection to only one side (or erase what you don't need). If you can make a slight bump map from that too, it will help it look convincing.
I'm no texturing genius but that seems to be a good way to look at it.
Like your boots. :)
.
EClark1894 posted Mon, 09 September 2013 at 5:07 PM
LaurieA posted Mon, 09 September 2013 at 6:11 PM
YEEEEEEEEE-HAW! ;)
Laurie
EClark1894 posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 5:45 AM
Still I don't think that's too bad for my first time.
unbroken-fighter posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 6:14 AM
again a few tips
think in tubes for clothing
the arms are basic cylinders, as is the torso
just get a shirt and look at where it is sewn together and use that as a base
EClark1894 posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 6:29 AM
Yeah, I know I can do better with the seams, but as I said for my first time out, I'm basically happy I got out of the program with a textured object at this point. There's still a lot I need to learn, such as how to add a second texture to the same object, how to line up the seams better, and how to generate a template.
unbroken-fighter posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 6:53 AM
please dont think im trying to be mean because im not
but look at a shirt and where the seams are
the texture seams and the mat zones are sperate ideas in the map
texture seams are just that a seperattion in the actual texture map and material zones are subsets within the texture
in blender you can use the texture paint option to paint the desired images on to a irregular mesh if you use the views right
example cut the sleeves at the shoulders and split the mesh in the bottom center, unwrap from view, save that as the master UV and then create another version from the top and front and back, ect.......
there was a tut on cookie that defined it better but im tired and need to feed so ill link it later
EClark1894 posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 9:20 AM
Quote - please dont think im trying to be mean because im not
but look at a shirt and where the seams are
the texture seams and the mat zones are sperate ideas in the map
texture seams are just that a seperattion in the actual texture map and material zones are subsets within the texture
in blender you can use the texture paint option to paint the desired images on to a irregular mesh if you use the views right
example cut the sleeves at the shoulders and split the mesh in the bottom center, unwrap from view, save that as the master UV and then create another version from the top and front and back, ect.......
there was a tut on cookie that defined it better but im tired and need to feed so ill link it later
You keep telling me that. I know where the seams are on a shirt. I've marked the seams on the model. Blender keeps ignoring them. So obviously, I haven't quite figured out what I'm doing wrong, okay? The only option that seems to give me close to the results I want are the "Smart UV" option.
I thought I had it there for a moment but when i tried to UV map the front of the shirt, which was the last part, everything just got completely out of hand. Up until that point everything was actually looking fine.
I think part of the problem lies with the way I modeled the breast areas on the model. I think it's throwing Blender for a loop.
EClark1894 posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 9:53 AM
I think you can pretty much see the seams around the sleeves in this screen shot and on the shoulders. There are no seams anywhere around the breast area, but Blender insists on putting some there, and it's not doing a very good job.
EClark1894 posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 9:54 AM
I think you can pretty much see the seams around the sleeves in this screen shot and on the shoulders. There are no seams anywhere around the breast area, but Blender insists on putting some there, and it's not doing a very good job.
EClark1894 posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 9:59 AM
LaurieA posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 9:59 AM
Knowing just where to cut is sort of an art ;). It'll come in time...no rush. LOL
To be honest..the seams at the breast area could be darts, which some shirts definitely have (grandma was a seamstress...lol).
You can see them here running across from the shoulder toward the tip of the bust and down the front, although these are actually separate pieces sewn together I HAVE seen darts at the bust like your uvs ;).
Laurie
EClark1894 posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 10:26 AM
I think you can pretty much see the seams around the sleeves in this screen shot and on the shoulders. There are no seams anywhere around the breast area, but Blender insists on putting some there, and it's not doing a very good job.
210x2 posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 5:05 PM
That will bring up a small menu in the lower left hand corner of the screen that gives you some export options.
210x2 posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 5:07 PM
As far as seams go, Blender only uses user created seams for the Unwrap UV option.
All the other UV map options in Blender bypass any user created seams.
Blender's smart unwrap option, basically just tries to flatten out the map by creating its own seams, which are usually troublesome.
Smart unwrap tends to work better flat non organic shapes than rounded organic shapes.
EClark1894 posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 8:56 PM
Okay so I went back in and tried again. Much better this time, but there's some distorion around the breast areas.
EClark1894 posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 9:03 PM
LaurieA posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 9:08 PM
Not too shabby ;). I don't know if Blender has LSCM mapping, but if it does, you can try that and see if it stretches less.
Laurie
EClark1894 posted Thu, 12 September 2013 at 10:39 PM
Yeah this still isn't any good. I didn't notice before, but the size of the checks is different on both sides of the front and in the back. This has been a good shirt to practice on, but I'm going to go ahead and release this as a freebie with the previous texture. I'm going to keep practicing though.
pigfish9 posted Fri, 13 September 2013 at 2:16 AM
I'm impressed by what you have learned and appreciate all the freebies you are making for the new Poser people. Modeling is way beyond me and my now almost useless hands. Thank you!
EClark1894 posted Fri, 13 September 2013 at 5:18 AM
I know what the problem is though. The front mesh isn't laying down flat. It's skewed at an angle and I have no clue how to correct it... yet. That's why the checks are smaller on one side than on the other. I'm going to have to watch that stupid video again, because I'm missing something.
Gator762 posted Mon, 16 September 2013 at 5:51 AM
I'll post here since it's very relevant...
I'm trying to update some textures that aren't very good. They're old (from 2007). Not that there is anything wrong with that, but they are only 1024x1024, too low res for closeups.
The objects didn't come with templates, my difficulty is they are a bit complex (weapons). I have Photoshop.
Are there better tools for this job? I see Blender here for UV maps.
unbroken-fighter posted Mon, 16 September 2013 at 6:01 AM
were the originals freebies or paid items?
that effects how they can be handled
also are they still availible from the maker?
pigfish9 posted Mon, 16 September 2013 at 8:06 AM
Attached Link: UV Mapper Downloads Page
There's also a UVMapper program that's free you can use to map texture maps from .OBJ files. Get the Pro version (it's free, too) because you can make colored maps that, for me, make it easier to tell the zones apart.The Pro version is only for Windows but the Classic version is also available for MAC.
LaurieA posted Mon, 16 September 2013 at 8:10 AM
Quote - I'll post here since it's very relevant...
I'm trying to update some textures that aren't very good. They're old (from 2007). Not that there is anything wrong with that, but they are only 1024x1024, too low res for closeups.
The objects didn't come with templates, my difficulty is they are a bit complex (weapons). I have Photoshop.
Are there better tools for this job? I see Blender here for UV maps.
Wings is about the easiest to UV map in that I can think of. I caught on to Wings in a week ;). Mileage may vary of course. LOL.
Oh, and it's also free. Blender is a bear of a program to learn. I say start simple and go from there :)
Laurie
Gator762 posted Mon, 16 September 2013 at 4:57 PM
Quote - were the originals freebies or paid items?
that effects how they can be handled
also are they still availible from the maker?
They are paid items here at the marketplace. I was going to site mail the vendor too, just haven't had time yet. I can post what they were, if that's considered OK.
LaurieA and pigfish9 - thanks, I'll have to check those tools out too.
LaurieA posted Mon, 16 September 2013 at 5:42 PM
If all you want to do is print out the templates and not change the UVs at all, then UVM Free is the way to go (pigfish's suggestion). If you want to change uvs, then I wouldn't use UVM for that. Go for a modeling program (not Blender if you can help it since it's so involved, not because it's not good. LOL).
Laurie
Gator762 posted Mon, 16 September 2013 at 6:12 PM
I don't think I want to change the UV's - forgive me I'm a total newbie in this area. I didn't see any issues with the textures being wrong/mapped incorrectly, there's just way too low of a resolution.
I have the existing textures in the /runtime/textures directory of course, but it seems that there would be an easier way to do it.
I also emailed the vendor.
shvrdavid posted Mon, 16 September 2013 at 7:27 PM
EClark
Are you using Live Unwrap In Blender?
It saves a ton of time, and doing it any other way just tests your patients.
This quick video shows just about everything you need to know on how to do it.
It just touches on how to fix stretching, but shows enough of it to get you going in a hurry.
http://vimeo.com/21943368
Some things are easy to explain, other things are not........ <- Store -> <-Freebies->
EClark1894 posted Tue, 17 September 2013 at 9:52 AM
Maybe I'll give Wings3D a try if Laurie says it UV maps easily.
LaurieA posted Tue, 17 September 2013 at 12:19 PM
This one tutorial made UV mapping in Wings 3D VERY clear to me ;). And he's a member of Rendo so that makes it even better. Best of all, he's uv mapping a clothing item :D
This is an older version of Wings but it still holds true other than a few minor differences that don't matter for uv mapping.
Laurie
Touchwood posted Wed, 18 September 2013 at 1:12 AM
EClark:
To generate a UV Test Grid, Create a new image and at the bottom there is a box labeled 'generated type' which will give you the option of blank (default) UV Grid or Colour Grid.
EClark1894 posted Wed, 18 September 2013 at 4:55 AM
Gator762 posted Wed, 18 September 2013 at 8:39 AM
Quote - There's also a UVMapper program that's free you can use to map texture maps from .OBJ files. Get the Pro version (it's free, too) because you can make colored maps that, for me, make it easier to tell the zones apart.
The Pro version is only for Windows but the Classic version is also available for MAC.
Does it let you export? I downloaded the pro version from that page, but it indicates that it must be registered to export. :(
pigfish9 posted Wed, 18 September 2013 at 9:08 AM
It lets you save the template or texture map while unregistered. I don't think it lets you save the remapping changes without registering.
Under file is "Save Template" or keyboard shortcut Ctrl+T You can make different templates for an object if they overlap (like for a character). Use the select tab to select the groups you want on your template then use Select Inverse to select everything you don't want and hit your delete key. It won't change your obj file, just allow you to create the template for those parts.
I just woke up so I'm not sure how lucid that explanation is. Let me know if you need step-by-step. Does anyone know if Steve Cox frequents the message boards here (and what his user name is)?
LaurieA posted Wed, 18 September 2013 at 10:44 AM
Steve Cox is a REALLY hard man to get hold of. LOL. I've seen him perhaps a total of twice in 5 years. He doesn't really answer emails either.
Laurie
EClark1894 posted Wed, 18 September 2013 at 11:01 AM
LaurieA posted Wed, 18 September 2013 at 4:26 PM
Been there, done that. More than once. LOL
Laurie
EClark1894 posted Wed, 18 September 2013 at 6:03 PM
EClark1894 posted Wed, 18 September 2013 at 6:10 PM
LaurieA posted Wed, 18 September 2013 at 8:21 PM
Ya dont want the seam down the back...you'll want them down the sides. UV mapping is about how to cut the mesh to get the least amount of distortion with the fewest seams. I know cutting it down the sides is two seams instead of one, but it's the flattest. LOL.
Like I said before...it's an art and will come in time ;).
Laurie
EClark1894 posted Wed, 18 September 2013 at 8:46 PM
I went back into Blender and tried to clean up the seam a bit.
LaurieA posted Thu, 19 September 2013 at 1:00 AM
Well, I'm an old texturer, and it's easy for me to match seams, so maybe that plays into it ;)
Laurie
unbroken-fighter posted Thu, 19 September 2013 at 1:14 AM
using projection paint can solve the seam issues if you learn how to use it correctly
create a master uv map and save it as master
then unwrap from view in front, left, rear, and right
from the views you can use texture projection painter topaint the image onto the main map without visible seams
i remember the tut from cgcookie from a ways back
EClark1894 posted Thu, 19 September 2013 at 2:48 AM
unbroken-fighter posted Thu, 19 September 2013 at 3:03 AM
http://cgcookie.com/blender/2009/06/18/texturing-with-projection-painting/
thats the one i remembered but its for older versions
the basics still are the same just different tool locations
EClark1894 posted Thu, 19 September 2013 at 3:41 AM
LaurieA posted Thu, 19 September 2013 at 3:43 AM
There is a newer one. Just wade thru the tutorials. LOL There's some gems in there anyway ;).
Laurie
kobaltkween posted Thu, 19 September 2013 at 6:46 AM
I found this video on cloning to be the most helpful on the subject I've come across:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4ngVoGIj1Q
EClark1894 posted Thu, 19 September 2013 at 10:43 PM
kobaltkween posted Thu, 19 September 2013 at 11:01 PM
I'm sure you could.
unbroken-fighter posted Thu, 19 September 2013 at 11:44 PM
projection and clone painting is the same idea except that in true projection painting ypou use UVmaps to make a single map and clone just uses a single map that you use a brush to paint on what is wanted
check the blender forum here because there is more links to the newer tuts about it and a few peoples tips as well
kobaltkween posted Fri, 20 September 2013 at 12:53 AM
In clone you make two UV maps, and use projection UV mapping. And that tutorial is from Jan 2013. There's more recent texture painting tools, but I haven't seen any that change the basics of the cloning technique.
EClark1894 posted Sat, 21 September 2013 at 11:51 PM
RedPhantom posted Sun, 22 September 2013 at 6:47 AM Site Admin
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EClark1894 posted Sun, 22 September 2013 at 11:22 AM