Suppose I have 3D room with a 3D lamp in Poser. Suppose I want it's 3D bulb to emmit the equivalent of a 75 what bulb. Or suppose I want to use a scene light but want it to equal a 75 watt bulb. Does anyone know how to translate wattage or lumens to the value box for a scene light or a light emitting object?

No, you just basically increase the intensity until it looks right. But I did look this up for you:

In simple terms, Lumens (denoted by lm) are a measure of the total amount of visible light (to the human eye) from a lamp or light source. The higher the lumen rating the “brighter” the lamp will appear. We have all bought 50W or 60W conventional bulbs or spotlights in the past expecting a certain level of brightness.

What this basically means, is that brilliance is based on what's visible to the human eye. Wattage is the amount of energy it takes to produce a certain amount of lumens. And even that depends on what kind of bulb you're using, and the wiring in your house, etc.

Real lighting also depends HUGELY on the color and surface of the walls. Changing paint from dark to white has about the same effect as changing a bulb from 40 to 100 watts. Even opening the curtains at night can reduce the illumination a lot. The 3d renderer can't duplicate this effect. So EClark's answer is really the only way to do it. Just fiddle with the intensity until it looks the way you want.

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Blender Cycles has a solution for your problem but they have not done this for Superfly/Poser yet. Yes, you can crank up your ligting and export the image as an EXR but that's a shitty workflow. Have a look at this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9AT7H4GGrA&t=8s

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Thanks for the link Ghostship. I suspect that video's going to come in handy.

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The nearest thing I can remember for lighting was BB's old exposure meter thingy. Never used it meself; I just guess my lights (whaddya mean, it shows?) and trust to luck.

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I've seen that video, and while it is informative for Blender, most of it would fly right over the head of anyone using Poser.

EClark1894 posted at 11:34PM Sat, 04 January 2020 - #4375522

I've seen that video, and while it is informative for Blender, most of it would fly right over the head of anyone using Poser.

Yeah. Like some of the people at the SM forum I'd get frustrated with when they'd post images and claim they were "photoreal" and It would look like a typical flat Poser 4 render.

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ghostship2 posted at 11:15AM Sun, 05 January 2020 - #4375528

Yeah. Like some of the people at the SM forum I'd get frustrated with when they'd post images and claim they were "photoreal" and It would look like a typical flat Poser 4 render.

One of the times I was glad I was not registered at that forum. I was really tempted to give them my opinion.. and it would not have been a nice one :/

SamTherapy posted at 10:30AM Sun, 05 January 2020 - #4375503

The nearest thing I can remember for lighting was BB's old exposure meter thingy. Never used it meself; I just guess my lights (whaddya mean, it shows?) and trust to luck.

Yeah, it worked well for Firefly but doesn't work in SF. That is what the False Color look does in Blender.

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to answer the OP what I would do is use a point light hidden inside the lamp. Set the point light to inverse square falloff so that it behaves like a real world light source. In the example here I am using TrekkieGirl's render room and one of the stock Poser lamp models. I set the lamp shade material to either SSS or translucent so it would transfer light though it. Make sure you have at least 6 diffuse bounces to get the light right otherwise it will be too dark. in the second example I'm using 1 area light facing straight down and situated right under the ceiling in the middle of the room. Area lights always work on inverse square.

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You know... I did not really answer that question, did I. Real world light settings for Poser lights? not really. You'll have to eyeball it. It also matters on your workflow. If you are cranking the lights way up and exporting an EXR then that adds a whole nuther layer of trial and error setting your lights. Yeah, I said "nuther."

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Have you had a look at this tutorial about lighting? It's at least worth a read.

http://www.sharecg.com/v/84810/gallery/3/PDF-Tutorial/Lighting-relationships-in-Poser

One time, I was trying to find some kind of equivalent. The best I could do was I took a candle into a walk-in closet (the only room I have without any windows) and took a picture of the room when it was only lit by that candle. I then recreated the room in poser and used one point light for the light of the candle. I then did several test renders to see what kind of intensity it took to match what was shown in the picture. With the attenuation set at inverse square, I found that 0.5% was very close to the picture. So simply a poser light at .5% is one candle power. The formula I found for converting to lumens is L=C/0.07958 so you might be able to go from there to find how you want to set your lights.

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I still stick by my original answer. What if you can't see that well? Younger people tend to be able to see better than older people for example.

I tend to eyeball lights first, then produce a test render and look at the histogram in an image editor. It's an objective measurement of the values in the image and independent of the hardware you're using, so it doesn't matter what your eyesight is like, whether your monitor is calibrated, what the ambient light conditions are etc etc.

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