Hey. I remember there was some ways for this but I could not find with some research here and there. Anyone can help me? Thx!
There is crossfitter. Older versions of Poser came with Wardrobe Wizard, but unless you got the supporting figure files already, you won't be able to use that because it's no longer sold. Newer versions of Poser come with the fitting room. Here's how to use that. This was written for Mike 4 to L'homme, but unless indicated, the steps should be the same
1.
1. Load figure. Turn off IKs. Use Figure>zero figure. (for L’Homme make sure the L’Homme size dial is set to zero.) Hide posing chips/control handles if applicable.
2. Load clothing
3. Move and resize the clothing so it is close to fitting your figure. You might also use the pose dials or scales for individual body parts of the clothing.
4. Make sure your figure isn’t subdivided. With the clothing selected, open the morph tool and don’t panic. (there’s always undo) Create a new morph and call it something unique like custom_morph. It really doesn’t matter what it’s called. It’s a temporary morph.
5. Select the Loosen fit brush and set the goal to your figure. If you don’t see your figure listed then you probably have it selected and are working with the wrong thing.
6. Set the magnitude to .1 or .05. The loosen brush is very sensitive and this is the strength of the brush so you want it low. The size is your choice. I usually find the default too small. Use whatever your comfortable with.
7. Working from the edges of the poke-through inward, stroke brush over poke through. Work only on one side. Later you can mirror the morph. Be patient as you work. Higher poly garments are slower to work with.
8. Once there are no more poke-throughs go to display>figure style> wireframe (or press ctrl-alt 3) to check for places where the clothing is too far from the figure
9. If you find places that need to be fixed, use the tighten fit brush. Set the Pokethrough margin to about .001or so. The smaller the number, the closer to the figure the clothing will get. .5 is good for the magnitude and your choice of brush sizes.
10. Stroke the places you want closer.
11. For tight areas, like between the legs, you can hide the body parts that are in the way.
12. Make sure no parts are touching other parts, like in between the legs. The fitting room may get confused and mix up polys.
13. Use the smoothing tool for any place the polys are bunching. You may need to use the loosen brush
14. At the bottom of the morph tool click on mirror and copy the morph from the side you were working on to the other.
15. Go to display>figure style>use document style (ctrl.alt 0) and look for areas that need touch ups.
16. When you don’t have any more. close the morph pallet
17. Save your work. You don’t want to go through that again.
18. Go into the fitting room and create a new session. For the object choose the clothing you are converting. Make sure the zero figure is NOT checked. Choose your figure for the goal. The zero figure can be checked here.
19. Ignore all the fitting tools because they don’t work right and the clothing is already shaped how you want it.
20. Hit create figure button
21. A window will pop up with a chance to name the clothing. You can use the suggested name or another. Click okay
22. In the transfer figure popup window, click on the checkbox to deselect everything and then select only the body parts you need. You don’t have to select every part individually. You can select the extremities (neck, forearm, shin, or foot) and everything between that and body will be selected.
23. Click on select to choose which morphs you want to copy.
24. If the grouping is similar, you can choose to try to use the original grouping of the body parts, if they are different (such as having other parts) check auto group
25. Click okay and go back to the pose room
26. Hide the original clothing and select the new clothing
27. Go to figures>copy joint zones from and choose the figure you are fitting it to.
28. Conform and test
29. Save file
30. Save the new clothing to the library
Available on Amazon for the Kindle E-Reader Monster of the North and The Shimmering Mage
Today I break my own personal record for the number of days for being alive.
Check out my store here or my free stuff here
I use Poser 13 and win 10
Thx for the guide. It's always so painful to work with cloth at Poser. As I wanted to make an armor, I guess this kind of stuff would break many details.
Do a google search for Evilinnocence's Crossdresser. It's free and supports many figures. You only pay for the license of the figure you want to convert TO and not FROM. There are several free licenses too so you can try it out first. It's fast, comes with a variety of options and is usually reliable. The Fitting room needs a lot of adjustments IMO that I have yet to fully understand. Usually the clothes just shrinkwrap for me and look nothing like the original, may be good for tight-fitting items but not for everything with my mediocre skills.
That's why in my instructions, you use the morph brush. Step 19 even says to ignore the tools in there. You only use it for the final conversion.
Available on Amazon for the Kindle E-Reader Monster of the North and The Shimmering Mage
Today I break my own personal record for the number of days for being alive.
Check out my store here or my free stuff here
I use Poser 13 and win 10
V4 and M4 have the same mesh topology. You can therefore load V4's mesh as an FBM into M4. You can then copy the morph to the clothing.
Results may not be optimal, but a good start. The morph brush can be used to correct any quirks.
Bone topology is also the same, so you can let the centres follow the morph.
