Would anyone be interested in a 64k "PZ3" file plus a text file that is set up for rendering Anaglyphs (Red/Blue 3D Images)? It's very simple and can produce stunning results, and a good jumping off point to start you on a road to 3D Anaglyphs. I will include all the instructions needed. All 3 of them. Requirements: Poser 4 A 2D paint program that allows editing RGB channels. Such as PhotoShop, and i believe PSP may do this also. In-a-nutshell: You render left and right eye views in Poser (PZ3 file --just adjust the Main Camera dolly x dial). Save each image, open them up in your paint program and replace the red channel from one to the other. Viola. Example pic here. Left picture is full color Anaglyph, right (Which I think looks better) is just greyscale. James

I am wondering if there is a set, definite degree measurement in moving the x axis or if this varies depending on the object(s) in the window? I ask because my few experiments have turned out less than impressive. And, yes, I would appreciate your tutorial, James. Very much so. DLM

I also am very interested. Marge

OK, I guess I have to start writing it. It should be posted tomorrow. As to your question DLM. Yes the degree on the "X" is extreamly important. it has to equal about the 6" distance of an average persons eyes. And a little trick most people forget. ... Tracking. You must also swivel slightly as you move across. Well all that will be in the text/tutorial file(s). James

Actually I already had written a tutorail for this:) http://www.chemicalstudios.com/tutorial/tut5/index.html FastTraxx

The technique you described only shifts the red channel, so all the "greyscale" information belongs to the green channel. I use another method which you can see in my "The Archeresse - Anaglyph Stereogram" in the gallery. Here's how: 1. Render two images just as you described. 2. Open them in Photoshop and make one image with two layers out of them. 3. Do "Image/Adjust/Hue Saturation" and colorize each layer with 75% saturation and -50 brightness. Use a red hue for the left eye layer and a blue/green hue for the right. 4. In the layers tool window, set the mode to "screen" to combine the layers. 5. Flatten the image and save it. I think this way preserves the information for the left and right eyes better. You decide.

http://www.castroonline.com/temptrash/rgtut/index.html Ok I threw together a tut also. Yours is great FastTraxx. Check it out and see if it works and is even viable. I've included a downloadable "pz3" file that has everything set up including a target prop. And the exact positions of the left and right camera positions. And when you composite the final image, there is no extra fiddling. (It should be fuss free). What's one more tut. It can't hurt, maybe confuse a little. James

very interesting duesentrieb, Ill try that method out, and Im on my way to check yours out to James. FT

Oops, I forgot to mention that you first have to convert both images to greyscale mode (to get rid of the colour) and then back to RGB mode (to allow red and green).

PSP 5 split color channels into three monochrome images (red, green, blue). PSP 6 actually splits into 3 grayscale images; now I see why... :-)