It's early December 2007 at Pensacola beach. With surf board under his arm the surfer walks resolutely into the water. With the protective insulation of the body suite he does not feel the cold water temperature. He ventures forth wading now neck deep in the dark water. Watching the waves in the distance makes his body hum and send his senses into overdrive. Alert, he watches and scans the water's surface for footprints and shadowy dorsal fins. Yielding to the water...feather light, floating; going out to the spot where waves seem to break. He watches and waits. Each swell makes his pulse race and his heart beat faster. As the water rolls and grows he paddles out fast as he can not knowing but wishing and hoping this one is the big one. Sometimes he slows down and drifts, deflated, disappointed when promising waves fizzle before cresting. There in the distance another wave forms and sends his heart racing again. "This is the one!" And toward it he goes. Deep down he's driven by the very same forces that pull the tides. Driven to come and seek spiritual release on an adrenalin ride maybe not tonight or the next but it's only a matter of time. Certaintly, there's a big one out there with his name on it.

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Whether or not he caught the big one that night we'll never know. The air was cool and the wind colder. I can only imagine how cold the water was. We stayed long enough only to watch the sunset. But, like the waves, it too fizzled out. So instead, I aimed my camera at the surfer. Thanks for stopping by. Make it a great day!