Karmelitska Street by Chipka
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Description
The sky was ugly and unmercifully gray. The air was cold and damp, as trams hummed along their tracks, dinging their little antique bells at intersections: those odd places in Prague where streets change names. Snow fell, but warmer temperatures turned the fluff into slush, and the slush into puddles.
Pavl walked beside me, in the mood for dumplings and gulaš: Czech gulaš and not that “red” Hungarian stuff. The taste is the same, more or less, but Czechs don’t use as much paprika, and they serve it with thick knedly (bread dumplings with chunks of pork baked in.) It’s good stuff. Those dumplings alone will fill you up for a week. And ah, gulaš is best when you’ve finished it off and there’s half of one dumpling left…just enough to wipe your plate clean and savor that particular gulaš taste that goes so well with cute, eccentric friends…and beer. It’s winter food. And of course, you drink beer when you eat it. Or maybe that’s just a thing with Pavl: you drink beer when you’re with him.
Though I’d learned of the infamous Czech physique, it was Pavl who showed me the most extravagant examples of it. On Karmelitska Street. The Czech physique is easy to spot. Just look for a fat guy with skinny legs…or a relatively thin guy with a beer gut and skinny legs. The gut/leg ratio is what determines this particular physique. It comes from walking everywhere, but consuming massive quantities of Pilsner Urquell, Gambrinus, or even Kozel, if you’re going for cheap and tasty. Czech beer is tasty! It’s amazing stuff. Real beer and not that high-alcohol/fizzy water you get in the USA.
As I walked with Pavl in search of gulaš with, we talked about soviet tanks, Amy Winehouse, and why gulaš made by a surly babička always puts you to sleep. We walked the length of Ujezd, a rather picturesque street. We were heading in the general direction of Prague Castle…more or less, and at some random intersection, Ujezd became Karmelitska. Czech streets do that: “To confuse invaders,” Pavl informed me, as he fished two cigarettes from the pack we were sharing. He held them both between his lips, lit them, then passed one to me, faint moisture on the filter like the most intimate and friendly of kisses. I’ve come to recognize such moisture as a smoker’s kiss, and it’s one of those strange intimacies you share only with friends who smoke.
And so with a smoker’s kiss lingering on my lips, I walked with Pavl along the not-exactly-straight length of Karmelitska Street with the green domes of Saint Nicolaus Cathedral looming ahead. Back on Ujezd, we’d passed Shadow Bar, but it wasn’t open; it didn’t have food, and so we weren’t that interested, despite a rather spooky golem emblazoned on the sign. Instead, we ambled in the direction of the cathedral, our noses alert for the first hints of gulaš scent. We found a place, a long time later. And we stuffed ourselves.
I remember this as if it happened yesterday. I remember this because now, it is cold and Pavl (like Victor) is so far away. He no longer lives in Prague. He’s moved to Brno. But he still eats gulaš and dumplings, still smokes diminutive Czech cigarettes with the unlikely brand name “Start” emblazoned in red on white and sky-blue packaging. I remember this as if it happened yesterday, because I found this picture attached to an email I’d sent to Victor. How odd that Pavl and Victor are connected in this way…but ah…how utterly right as well!
***
As always, thank you for viewing, reading and commenting. And just so you know, in Czech the "š" is "gulaš" is pronounced "sh" and the "č" in "babička" is pronounced "ch." "Babička" is the Czech word for "old lady" or "granny."
Comments (29)
jchristenberry
Beautiful! Reminds me of how much I miss that side of the world.
elfin14doaks
Interesting story that accompanies this really awesome shot. Thank you for sharing this, I love the streets and all the old buildings. This is very cool.
Sea_Dog
Wonderful narrative and image.
ToniDunlap
Nice to feel like I did a little traveling just viewing this great shot.
helanker
WOW! It could have been a street in Copenhagen 50 years ago. It is beautiful.... and wet :-) What an excellent shot. So was the story about it.
kgb224
Outstanding capture my friend.
durleybeachbum
Thankyou for that ramble through this pretty place, Chip, I really felt I was walking with you!
koosievantutte
very fine shot. great perspective.
tamburro
Fantastic shot!!!
blondeblurr
It must be so nice for you, to pick out a photo from your past with memories attached to it and express those old feelings you had then and write about them in details now, as if it only happened yesterday... It seems to me also, that those feelings are getting stronger and more pronounced with each new day that passes and you are not there... Maybe it's a case of being 'home-sick' ? and the grass is greener ? let me know, if I am wrong ? I hope that all your wishes (or perhaps just one) will come true very soon. Cheers my friend BB p.s. I do like your little anecdote about Goulasch and Knoedel, (German spelling) love eating them as well, YUM !
anmes
I recognise this so well! Walked it many times. Prague does take hold of you..I find it a beautiful place to walk around..so harmonious. My first visit was in '82, then a different world, but one that captured me instantly. I have many Cz friends and go to visit several times a year and each season has its charm. I have several pix of the Christmas market to upload and after the New year some other shots from my recent visit. if you're interested, check my gallery!
ladyraven23452
great work.
jac204
Nice picture and narrative.
gypsyflame
Ahhhhhhhhhh, I am a Babička...lol...love the image, I've always loved cobbled stone streets....and of course I love to read what you write...I still think you should be a professional writer!
MrsRatbag
What a beautiful street; looks like someplace I would love to go. In some ways it reminds me of St. Paul, Minnesota. That place has a very European layout, with curving streets and cobblestones in the downtown area (at least when I lived there in the early 1980s), and even has a cathedral that looks much like this one. But of course St. Paul is a much more recent version of those old European cities! And your ruminations are captivating, as always!
MagikUnicorn
Thats Old...very old street...Magnificent shot...Thanks for the Great Info
Meisiekind
Delightful image Chip and your words just take me right into Prague! I love the composition with the green dome at the end of the curvy street. The rain also makes everything appear so clean!!! :))
flora-crassella
wonderful perspective! Great picture!!!
NefariousDrO
That's a beautiful photo, especially the wet and shiny cobblestones. But it's nowhere near as beautiful as your story. The warm, rich description not only of the street, but the companionship of friends on a mission is a true delight to read. I don't think I can possibly get enough of your poetic writing.
myrrhluz
As I sat down with my breakfast just now, I'm a night-owl and it's Saturday, I remembered that you had posted an image and knew I had good reading material. As usual, you didn't disappoint. Czech gulaš sounds delicious, though I couldn't have it properly as I don't like beer (a failing, I know). I loved your descriptions of place, physiques, food and smoker's kiss. Your insights are fascinating. Beautiful image! Love the POV, wet cobbled street and the variously colored buildings.
JaneEden
Well I feel like I know Prague so well after your intro Chip, and as for the photography it is so pristine and so sharp, I feel as though I am standing in that street. Superb all round my dear friend, and I am also sorry for not getting to your gallery as often as I would like. I was sorry to read that you had to part with your beloved cat, but you did the right thing and I am sure the best thing. Thanks for your visit to my gallery I sincerely appreciate it, your comments were all very inspiring, hugs Jane xx
mbz2662
Wonderful :)
auntietk
You make me miss places I've never been ...
kasalin
Beautiful story and an outstanding capture, dear Chip !!!!!!!!!!!! Hugs Karin:)
blinkings
A really nice urban scene my friend. I love trams!
faroutsider
Great photo, but it's the writing that transports me there... Superb wordsmithing (if there's such a word :o)
romanceworks
I'm glad you have such fine memories of the friend you miss so much. And such an interesting photo. Prague is indeed from another world. CC
jascorpio
beautiful memories!!!!
EBSPhotographic
So much to look at! You caught the train perfectly.