Icebreakers by Chipka
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Description
The Vltava is one of my favorite rivers on earth. It isn’t the longest river in the world. It isn’t the cleanest, though the heavy metals have been removed and drinking its water will not give you the 21st Century version of Minimata’s Disease, or any other metal-born illness. The paper industry has cleaned itself up substantially, and the Czech Republic, taking advantage of its EU membership has…well…cleaned itself up. Well…sort of. There is still a patina of grunge; there are wild hedgehogs like rats ambling through the streets and drawing the cooing attention of Czechs who view them as lucky. Ježek (pronounced Yeh-zhek) is the name commonly given to these creatures; it simply means “Hedgehog” and it’s a common Czech surname as well. Ah, but Czech surnames are intriguing, somewhat sarcastic creations. Prior to the Czech Lands’ absorption into the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Czechs saw no need for family names and well…Austrian insistence on “those silly names” inspired Czechs to simply create random identity markers for themselves. Ježek—hedgehog—among others. A lot of Czech family names translate to "Goose" or "Cream" or even "Elephant Nose." All of this is to say that upon my return to Prague after three months in Dortmund, I wandered along the banks of my beloved river and recalled the hedgehogs I’d seen the previous, sultry spring—little spiny creatures sniffing after worms and other edible things. It was winter, however, there were no hedgehogs around, no snuffling-sniffing noises to mark their presence…no old and jaded men becoming childlike upon the sight of such a creature. Even the most jaded Czechs seem to adore them. Unconditionally.
Now, in the depths of winter in a foreign land, I recall the first day I saw the river upon my return to Prague. I knew that the wooden structures I’d seen served a purpose. I learned, the following summer, that they are ice-breakers: ice barriers, 14th Century style. Something about temperature differentials, wood, and their general orientation marks them as super-sophisticated (low-tech) genius. They do, indeed, break ice and keep water in liquid state around foundations that could easily crack in the presence of ice. It isn’t uncommon to find jagged, icy crinkles surrounding them as they protect ancient stonework from the damage that ice commonly wreaks.
Aside from icebreakers protecting ancient bridges, there are also buildings along the length of the Vltava, many of which have niches carved into their foundations. These are old monasteries, and the stair-stepped niches are where monks would come out to the river in winter (or early spring) and gather ice to chill their beers and their wines. Now, the niches are empty of all but bird poop, and the occasional nesting duck. Intrepid graffiti artists might find them and scrawl their enigmatic slogans in the shadows, and yes, the graffiti in Prague reaches positively cryptic proportions. I have yet to discover the meaning of the countless existential rambles Pavl translated for me; it would seem that they even confuse Pavl—quite a feat since he isn’t exactly in the habit of linear thought.
It is winter here in Chicago, and the river here is icy. There are no 14th century ice breakers, no mysterious scrawls of graffiti. Though most of my friends are far away, I see Corey regularly, and though “Beth’s Chinese Restaurant” is way over in Prague, along with a particular Communist-throwback cafeteria (with tepid potatoes) that doesn’t matter. Corey and I can gorge ourselves on burritos. That’s never a bad thing. And so, in honor of winter, and the warmth of emotion that I experienced among friends during winters past, here is Prague—yet again—on precisely the day that Stepan (in his green and white striped socks) informed me that it was too cold and too foggy to go to the river. I went anyway, and he simply shook his head and ordered another beer.)
Comments (25)
mbz2662
Thanks Chip~ I enjoyed the trip to the Vltava :)
bmac62
Ingenius indeed,...smart old Czechs. Loved your description of the type of last names invented by the Czechs for themselves...kind of up your nose at the Austro-Hungarians huh?! Chip, this piece is tighly written, compact, and easy for me to both follow and read with pleasure. So that means you can add this to your "Czech/German/Russian Stories for Dummies" book due at the nearest book seller to you one day soon. Well done!!! First rate photo image to set this piece up for all of us.
beachzz
I want one of those Czech names, that makes perfect sense to me. I've always liked bears, what is that in Czech? And rivers, oh yes, I LOVE rivers. I live near one, walk along it often. I'd love to see a frozen one, just because it seems so impossible. In the meantime, this little trip to the Vitava was fun, I might have stayed with Stepan for a while, but I would have had to check out the river at some point!!
Osper
Interesting subject. Thanks for the explanation!
auntietk
So many levels! First of all, that is a kick-ass shot. Fantastic as a photograph, regardless of anything else. Second, the ice breaks are an amazing idea, one I've never heard of (it not being cold enough here to worry about such things), and a fascinatingly simple solution. Wow! I love learning things, and you always come through. :P Third, your memories of Prague and of this day are engaging, and I loved every word. What a wonderful combination of words and image!
Meisiekind
Today is not a good day for me, so my words are few! Just to let you know that I LOVE the image and your words as always sooths and entertains! :))
helanker
It is a fsntastic shot, Chip. I like the bridge to the right. Wonder if you have closer a shot of that. But in all I like this shot alot.
Hendesse
Beautiful view and colors. Fantastic shot.
Djavad
Toutes les tonalités hivernales d'un Brueguel y sont réunies - Superbe panoramique
MrsRatbag
I love the thought of hedgehogs milling about the streets...I haven't ever seen one, not for real out in the world. No wonder old men go goofy when they see them! Another great little storylet, and the image is just gorgeous; what a lovely place it must be!
0rest4wicked
Great image! Amazing how simplicity can be so effective!
nikolais
Reading your stories, I at times find their resemblance with "A Moveable Feast" by E. Hemingway, which is one of few best of him. I often reread it, hence remember well. In yours is a different time and a different place, but the same feel is present and I really like it.... It's not easy to describe life in a few words,but you do it! Amazing. Would Ernest have taken pictures if he'd had a digital? Guess he would.
durleybeachbum
The photo is a stunner on its own, and the explanation fascinating. And then we are once again whisked into your past and your mind and your present, engrossed!
flora-crassella
wonderful view!!! Great picture!!!!
wingnut55
interesting stuff, the Czech love of hedgehogs was unknown to me.
belasebok
Interesting photo, the explanation is excellent.
romanceworks
Really a lovely photo, especially with the buildings and bridge, and the greenish tones. And your rememberings are always so fun to read. CC
MagikUnicorn
BEAUTY
elfin14doaks
Actually this is a really great shot. I don't think it's not to foggy. I thinks it is very expressive and gives the photo mood.
waldodessa
Great picture!!!!
anahata.c
another poetic vision of the small things of a city, and how they connect to large tracts of past & culture & humanity...all done in a few paragraphs of your typically multi-layered prose. And the photo...where did this talent come from? I mean, your photography has become lusher & more mysterious & more beautiful & more layered with each month since you started uploading. This is a beautiful city-w-fog shot, the yellowish green fog is just amazing, the linear detail---the sweep from front piers to the back city line against the water, etc---masterful & simple; and the fogged-out background just beautiful. A beautiful shot once more, I keep waiting for a plain shot, but it's not going to happen. I want to go to these cities you've seen, and see them the way you have. Another beautiful & inspired upload from you, Chip...
kgb224
Wonderful capture my friend.
myrrhluz
Beautiful image! Where your next one is aggressively golden. This one's golden hues are refined and subdued. The buildings seem in conversation with each other, low, just out of hearing. Excellent color, reflections and atmosphere! What a wonderful window your words give to the Czechs! It shows us a rich and peculiar people. I like the word peculiar as it means both odd (which is generally a complement in my book), and distinct from others or special. It is our peculiarities that make us interesting and likable. Certainly, their history of last names, a mixture of stubborn anti authority sentiments and humor, and their devotion to hedgehogs are both fascinating and endearing. As always, I enjoyed seeing the world through your words and image! And I forgot to say previously, your new avatar is wonderful!
blondeblurr
When I looked at this photo, I thought: is this a row of barbwire, where the seagulls are resting on, surely not ? until I zoomed in; what a picturesque city, even on an overcast day. I just cannot believe, what you said about the history of surnames, are you having us on ? it wouldn't surprise me...you are such a believable writer ! Cheers BB
faroutsider
Superb photograph, informative (there's always something to learn in your posts) and great reminiscence. This has it all!