I need to soften the highlights on a number of photos I am working on. The sponge tool isn't really what I need. I need a softer result. I remember I could read somewhere of a method for softening highlights that implies use of levels (like, duplicating the level and performing some editing/compositing with different image modes). Do any of you remember about this, or other similar methods for softening highlights that can give professional quality results? Thanks much in advance Orio

I'm not sure exactly what effect you seek to accomplish, but I'll send you a "cut 'n paste' from my personal 'Techniques' file.

Make a Models Skin Look as Smooth as a Plastic Mannequin's. Part 1
Try this:

1. Duplicate the layer with the persons face.
2. Apply Gaussian Blur of 3-5
3. Set the duplicate layer to Softlight or screen and pull back on the opacity.

Using this technique allows you to add a layer mask to the blurred layer and paint back the person's eyes to keep them sharp.
(author: Katrin Eismann)

Part 2. A Similar Approach For Nice Softening of a Person
Something you cannot do in camera.

1. Duplicate the layer
2. On the duplicate layer apply Gaussian Blur - apply more than you want, maybe even lots more.
3. Adjust the opacity of the blurred layer to taste (depending on the amount of the blur the opacity may be as low as 10-20%)
4. Open a mask on the blurred layer
5. "Erase" (apply black at 100%) to the areas you want sharp - eyes, eyebrows, lips, teeth, jewelry, etc. You may want to apply some to the hair.
6. Flatten the image

This allows you to adjust, on screen, the exact amount of the softening. Even more important you can have part of the image sharp and some diffused. You will be amazed how much softening you can have on the face if the eyes, eyebrows, mouth, teeth, and earrings are sharp and have it look really good. In fact, after masking the parts you want sharp, you can again adjust the opacity to taste.

I hope this helps.

Thank you Vdallas for your reply. I already knew the duplicate/blur/softlight technique, but the problem is, it's great for general equalizing (and above all for mildening large shadow areas), but the problem is, the localized highlights are much brighter than the range this technique is useful for. I mean that the extreme settings it would require, would cause a number of negative side effects in the highlight area itself - and on top of that, the highlights would not go completely away anyway. I'd swore I have read of a different technique for highlights, using layers, but I can't just recall where...

Well... I don't know if it's been the fish I had for dinner, but... I just could recall an important part. it was not the matter of DUPLICATING the layer, but of CREATING A NEW LAYER. So working from this piece of recalled memory, I tested two ways: 1- pick a color that represent the correct luminosity, then paint in the new layer with a soft brush above the highlight area, being denser on the brighter spots. Then set the layer blend mode to "multiply" and adjust layer opacity for a smooth blend; or 2- use the clone tool with the "all layers" checked, and clone with a soft bruch on the highlight area, in the new layer, same way (denser where brighter). Then set layer blending mode to "darken" and adjust opacity. Both of these do work good actually! Much better than the dodge tool. BUT - I am pretty sure that in the original tutorial there was a "secret touch" to make the things even better... now if I only could recall that part, too! LOL... I started with a question and ended up with a quasi-tutorial! :-)

I used to soften every highlight I encountered, only when they were too high to reach... I did select the color of the hightlight (which was white most of the time), do a 'color range' selection and fill a new layer with the selected color. Or something even brighter, And then blur that new layer after selecting. And experiment with blend modes. This trick was also possible in the pre-layer era, but then one had to feather the selection before filling it with color. Those were rough times. With only one 'undo'...