Forum Coordinators: Kalypso
Carrara F.A.Q (Last Updated: 2024 Nov 21 9:55 pm)
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Ken, You might want to crank up the interpolation precision a bit. I've not had problems quite this bad but similiar. I have found that the filter sharpness and interpolation precision can have a big impact. You might want to also up you photon count a bit. As for the previous post, I have found that full raytracing is in fact NOT required if you're doing HDRI only and there are no lights! I'm finding myself becoming very lazy in my lighting because HDRI can produce some very nice reflection and lighting effects. As most of my images have been boring green product shots I do a quick low res render to check the ligting intensity and then leaving it rendering over night with all the settings high. There are some nice HDRIs on the C3 disk 2 that work well. I'm hoping to have time over Xmas to learn how to create my own HDRIs which at this time of year in Calgary will have a lot of snow in them. Andrew *<:=
I decided in the past that interpolation was the big evil-doer. Turn it up high or turn it off (and get some sleep for free, because it takes a lot longer to render). And planes and infinite planes are the first to show this kind of artefacts. I suppose the interpolation works the same as, for instance, the jpg compression method, where calculations are made for a larger part of the surface. The lower the interpolation number, the larger the chunks that are treated as one 'lighted area'.
I understand your setup. The reflective objects will reflect the background whether it's an background image or HDRI image. I was asking because the plane (which is not very reflective) is very dark as though it was not receiving light. I have tried to create an HDRI image and it looked great with reflective objects. But once I added non-reflective objects, it showed me that my HDRI was not generating any light. That's why I was asking you to put in non-reflective objects to see how much light you are really getting from the HDRI image.
I have only a rudimentary understanding of HDRI lighting so maybe this question will sound off base but... If you just convert a spherical camera rendering to *.hdr file don't you end up with a "LDRI"? Low dynamic range image? Wouldn't this only approximate true HDRI lighting when used in C3? Would it be possible to "expand the range" of the C3 "LDRI" with different "exposures" in C3.? I think I've seen this talked about somewhere. Sorry for all the quotes! Ed
Ed, very perceptive and very true. I'm not at all sure how I would go about simulating exposure settings in C3, but I'm sure it can be done. Right now I only use one image to set up the shot, so I guess, yes, it would be LDR. For what it's worth, though, it seems to work just fine for what I am looking for. But for specifics, I am VERY sure that by using GI images to create the HDR file (whether HDRI or LDRI) it is a better approximation of natural lighting than just adding in a straight ray trace without GI. Maybe I'm rambling.... ?? Ken
If you are making your own HDRI images from digital photos, either from a probe, or just a straight picture, one exposure will work, but will be a LDI(low dynamic image). It will light the scene but only in a very general way, but will provide good reflections. Try bracketing the main exposure with shots 1 or 2 stops up and down, or as many stops as you like. Then combine them in HDRIshop. The lighting will become more scene specific, shadows will harden where they should, espcialy if there is a sun in the shot! Don't forget to use a tripod, as the frame must register.
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