Hi. I'm new to photography, and need som help. I've noticed when I take pictures when it's dark(without flash), the pictures gets blury. Ok, the case is, tonight I'm going to take some pictures of a band while recording in studio. I guess the studio is pretty dark(maybe some spots). I want to take good pictures. So I need some hint.. ISOspeed? Flash? thanx for any help... The camera I'm using is a Minolta Dimage XT.

easiest way is to use a tripod and a cable release

['chelle, is the Dimage XT a digital?] If you are allowed to use flash in the studio, that may be the easiest. I'm not really familiar with your particular camera, so I do not know all the options you may have. The little tiny flashes built into the top of cameras generally give harsh results. Better if it is detachable from the camera. [If it is digital] the ISO speed setting perhaps can be increased for better performance in low light. [With film cameras, can just get faster film.] A tripod will help you to steady yourself, and should work wonders for overall bluring. Camera movement is the #1 killer of good shots. In low light situations you are often forced to use very slow shutter speeds, like 1/30 to 1/15th second. It is generally impossible to hold this steady. If you do not have a tripod, at least try to brace the camera on something steady, like a table top or door frame. It will not keep the moving subjects from bluring, but at least the surroundings will be sharp. [Sometimes having the musicians blur makes an interesting effect.]

Don't use hand-held under 1/60th minimum. if you havent got a tripod, lean the camera against a wall or something solid - (the camera, not you). Remember photography is all about light, the less you have, the more you have to allow for by opening up the aperture and/or lowering the shutter speed.

Oh.. thanx for the help. I took some pics to day, and it turned out pretty good. going to post some of them tomorrow.

Pax - A good rule of thumb for handholding is that you don't drop the shutter speed below the inverse of the lens' focal length. So, for instance, if you were shooting at 60mm, 1/60th of a sec is the slowest speed you would want to use. Of course, with practice and some techniques (bracing your body or camra on a sturdy object, breath control, etc.) you can push the speed down further. Also remember that the longer the focal length, the more susceptible (sp?) it becomes to camera shake. There are 5 main things you can do to get motion blur out of an image: 1) Put more light on the subject (flash, continous light, whatever) 2) Increase your shutter speed 3) Increase ISO (which will allow faster shutter speeds) 4) Use a wider aperture (allows more light in, allowing faster shutter speeds) 5) Better technique (bracing, breath control, etc) -=>Donald

I cannot help You....I just get excited when reading Donald suggesting the "bracing Your Body"..."breath control"...sigh...sorry...I am trying ever so hard to be a good Boy :]

Camera shake is changing... Seriously, the "reciprocal of focal length rule" doesn't apply to every camera. If you're using an SLR, which has to move the mirror out of the way, that's a good rule of thumb. For a lot of other cameras, digital or film, you can get away with a lower shutter speed, as long as you're using good technique to hold the camera. And for a digital camera, just shoot lots of pics. Some will work out.

Antonia - It's not really the mirror "slap" that causes the apparent camera shake. It's the longer focal length. The longer the focal length, the greater the apparent camera shake. Easiest way to think of it is that not only does a longer focal length magnify the image you are viewing, but also magnifies any shake you introduce to the camera. With long focal lengths, any small movements at the camera become bigger movements at the point of focus. Any shake that would be introduced by the mirror actuation should really be absorbed by your hands. Also note that the reciprocal of focal length "rule" is really only a guide. There are many people who would argue that this shutter speed is the minimum for an acceptable shot, but to get a really sharp image the rule should be "~.5 x 1/focal length". So, if you were shooting 50mm, you'd want to set your shutter speed no slower than 1/100th or 1/125th of a sec instead of 1/50th or 1/60th of a sec. -=>Donald

Donald, this argument could run and run... I've shot digital, rangefinder, and SLR, with similar effective focal length. The mechanical vibration does make a difference. So does technique, particularly how you press the shutter button. Been there, done that, got the blurred tshirr. In some ways, the problem resembles accurate rifle shooting, although there are some big differences. And both need a lot of practice to get good results.

Didn't know it was an argument. shrug Everyone should take every fact and opinion with a grain of salt and see what works for them; throw out what doesn't work and keep what does. If you find mechanical vibration is a problem for you, then that's good. You know it's a problem for you and you can compensate for it. I myself have found mech. vib. from the shutter to be negligable when compared with all the other sources of camera shake while handholding and I pretty much ignore it for anything but fine macro work (but then, that's what mirror lockup was made for). Either way, the reciprocal focal length is just a guide. Just as the Sunny/16 rule. Use it as a starting point and modify as your skills/circumstances dictate. -=>Donald