Hi... I've been scannins some negatives and fixing them using the standard SWOP Profile for pre press... the problem i m getting is that the print-shop does not have any of the computers calibrated and they do not intend to do it... so all my scans are too dark and color shifted... is there a way to scan them in a more "standard" way so i do not have this problem or minimize it? something like NO color correction or stuff? I'm delivering 32bit JPG ultra high quality 124 in scans... Thanks in advance... Rick

i don't know how they can call themselves a print-shop without any (or lame attempt at) calibration, find out what they print with, and use that profile, i've never done neg's, but i know i always have to adjust the highlight, midtone and shadow areas, to suit my printing conditions (not my monitor) i use grey ballance tecniques. one you have a profile you can use the info pallette to see the % of cmyk values of 5%, 50% and 95% values in greysale (black) use those numbers to adjust the highlight, midtone and shadow areas,of your image, for each ink,
Each image may have different densities, so actions aren't really an option, unless you can make a script that scans for the darkest area and non-specular hilights...

this is just a small sample of somthing resembling assistance

Message edited on: 01/04/2005 20:10

Thanks a lot.. but considering that I need to scan still about 200 Negatives and they are now trying to calling it quits... i think I'll spend my sanity at World of Warcraft or Sims 2 instead of a scanner... I corrected 2 images and sended to them... if anyone of those do not work.. KAPUT this dumb job... it takes forever to scan and I would need to spend about 1 week scanning just so they can complain again... Thanks agian

for scanning all you need to do is capture the difference between hilight and shadow densities, once the scanner is set resonably right - you can correct, or compensate it's smaller errors, with practice, with photshop - is not just hilight shadow of 'RGB' it the curve of R, the curve of G and the curve of B you must change, you can save all changes you make to all colour curves, if the shots are consistant, re use it. open up the info and make the numbers of a higlight area match, say R:12 G:12 B:12 and a shaddow area R:250 G:250 B:250 CMYK is slighly more complicated but it's a worthy challenge.