Forum Moderators: wheatpenny, Deenamic Forum Coordinators: Anim8dtoon
Photography F.A.Q (Last Updated: 2024 Nov 01 10:53 pm)
Remember to not take salad images.The less congested a scene the more effective it is. Try to not shoot the real touristy areas that everyone else would do. Take about 3 in an area from different POV's. I think if water is involved then use only a lot of lake if you are going for reflection shots. Otherwise pick something of interest near the lake and keep only a bit of water in. Long distance shots will give you a lot of haze if not really a clear day. Least I find that. I don't know Jim these are just a few things I have been trying of late. You will excel at it I know.
"The happiness of a man in this life does not consist in the
absence but in the mastery of his passions."
Take a brolly. And oilskins. And a splashproof camera cover. And those little hand warmers that you scrunch together to make heat for up to 8 hrs. And remember, several layers of thin clothing are better than one thick one. And money for tea-shoppes. And send us some Kendal Mint Cake (Which isn't made in Kendal anymore). Oh, and don't forget your wide angle lenses. (",)
Now you are talking my language. I will mail you later, got to go out now, the sun is shining and my shutter finger is itchy.
I think DB gives some great advice...but I also know how you are about the quality and power of your photography. Landscapes can be quite beautiful...but from many professionals opinion can become humdrum. Try and always include some foreground interest as well for framing and leading the eye. Sunsets and sunrises can be tricky...so getting your exposure nailed is a must. Depending if you want the foreground to have detail or be more in silohuette. If shooting water...sometimes long exposures will give movement and make for some really stunning photographs as well. Gosh, I could actually go on and on about this subject. lol. Anyway, I know you will find a way and produce some stunning results Jim! Hope you have a great time!
Know this is a parrot phrase of mine jim.. Art and nature never to be separated..see the Art in the scape use nature.. look at the colour blending together .. highs and shapes of objects..when taking a landscape l think to my self.. would l like this upon my wall.. read plenty of wordsworth before you go.. grins.. dunno jim being a novice dougs advise is Good.. just learnt something my self... basically l feel with the heart and look close with the eye drawing off renouned Artists and poets. and suppose as l,ve told you before.. l think poetically and artistic technical advise l cant give... technical bimbo.. hugs hope your self and the family have a marvellous time.. you need that break...:) hugs nikki
Message edited on: 03/06/2005 14:47
I Discovered the secret of the sea in mediation upon the dewdrop ... Sand and Foam Gibran
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The definition of landscape is broad, but as you probably know, to me a landscape is a wide shot or a telephoto shot picking a detail from a landscape, to many a woodland scene is also a landscape, but to me it is a woodland scene. The equipment I use (apart from the cam) is a combination of the following: Polarizer circular Hoya (linear filters screw up the AF and metering system) Neutral density graduated filter ND4 (Cokin P series) Remote shutter release in conjunction with mirror lock up (especially with a long lens) and or a slow shutter, depending on available light. Lens hood. Tripod. As small an aperture as possible for the largest DOF possible, this is not such a big issue with a wide lens as they have a much larger DOF than a long lens Of course your DOF also depends on the distance from you to the subject, if your main subject is far enough away, the DOF is much greater and f8/f11 is sufficient. Most lenses are at their best at f8-f11 For a wide landscape I focus about a third of the way into the frame @ f16/f22, this can require a slow shutter, if that is so I then also use the remote and mirror lock up, if the light is good, that may not be necessary. If using a slow shutter on a still water scene, this can blur the water, sometimes this works to your advantage and sometimes not. Because there can sometimes be a big difference between highlight and shadow in the land/sky I use the grad filter. I meter without the filter in place and fit the filter to take the shot, this can prevent/help prevent blown sky detail. This will depend on the amount of difference between highlight and shadow, at times the difference is just too great to get a perfect exposure through the whole scene. The grad filter is more important for a wide lens than it is for a long lens due to the wide view, which can include allot of sky. I usually try to pick some foreground detail to draw the viewer into the shot, this is not always possible. Of course with all photography it is better to have the sun behind you but that is not always possible, when shooting onto or across the light, I either use a hood or the grad filter (cant use both together) LP
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Ok chaps and chappess's, This might seem like a dumb question to ya all. Not a newbie at 'tography as you all know BUT, we are going up to the Lake District (UK)...next weekend staying at Steph's brothers house in Kendal...and I wanna come back with shots that dont disappoint :) Now, not a landscape 'tographer like many I admire on here...so, advice, tips...etc etc will be most welcomed. Thanking you all :)