Hiya people!!!! HEEEEELP!!!!! Thought about getting me some filters for the first time, and i dont know anything at all about them. I was hoping anyone of you could help me out and perhaps shed some light to some of the questions i have regarding different filters. These are the 58mm-filters i was looking to buy: * IR-filter (any particular brand you suggest?) * Skylight-filter (or UV...which one do you prefer?) * Close up-filter (+1, +2, +3 or +4....whats the difference?) * ND4 or ND8-filter to get greater shutter-control.... As you can see im totally lost when it comes to filters and can definitly use all the help i can get. I would also appriciate it greatly if anyone of you could direct me to where i could buy these filters (i was thinking Hoya-brand), preferably as a package deal. Been browsing through swedish stores like an idiot but none of them carry all these filters in stock. Usually they have UV-filter but not IR and vice versa. Bla bla bla.... Hope you all had a wonderful weekend, mine was rather okay with some norhtern lights brightening my evenings. Andreas

Im sorry if i asked a repeated question with this thread of mine. Im sure i could find the answers to most of my questions if i did some searching through the archives in here, but unfortunatly my neck doesnt allow me to sit too long infront of this screen so i thought this would be faster. Hope you dont mind.

Cokin makes decent filters and I believe has and attachment that goes over the lens that lets you easily switch out the filters. I don't know though. Of those, I only have close-up filters and have never used them. :) Time to go look at those N Lights...

I think that a polarizer and UV filter is a good start.I have those made by Tiffen.Very happy.As far as IR I really don't have a use for.Yet. Prefer to use a lens for any close ups though, not filters. Not sure how decent they are. Not much help here, but let's hope this thread gets response. I'm always interested in this too.

I have a polarizer and UV filter too. Also by Tiffen and very good. I used to use a Red 25 when shooting IR film. I'm interested in see what kind or response this gets too.

Well darn it...im interested in that too, LOL! Thanks Kort and Doug. I dont have a DSLR so i cant very well shift lenses...sigh. And i dont know what those close-up filters do....just sounded kinda neat, LOL.

I'll throw in my 2p worth

IR - filter no idea about those but Shiela Tvernuccio seems to be having some success so perhaps she will see this and be able to help.

UV - Don't use one don't see the point.

Close Up - 2 part ones of a similar construction to the Canon ones are the best type to have. They are basically just the same as putting a magnifying glass in front of the lens, everything is bigger, so good for macros if you want an even closer pov. The numbers indicate the strength of magnification.

ND4 or ND8 - Doesn't your camera already have an ND filter built in? If you feel this is insufficient or it does not have it then the choice depends on how much you want to slow the shutter down.

I have a Hoya polarising filter and am happy with it. They have a good reputation for making filters so I am sure you would not have any problems with them.

Suggestion: How about getting a polarising filter instead of the UV and ND4, it will serve the purpose of both. It will reduce haze in scenery shots and it will lose about 2 stops of light too.

Message edited on: 09/12/2005 14:43

OOOOH!!! Thank you!!!! That was some mighty helpful information indeed!!!!! YAY!!! A built-in ND-filter you say? One of these days i really need to read the manual, LOL.

GO FIGURE, IT HAS A "ND-FILTER" BUILT IN!!! YAAAAY!!!! Thanks for the tip! More of these please, lol. You just saved me a few bucks. #:O)

If it is the same as mine, which I believe it is then it is worth 3 stops when you use it.

& i'll throw in some maybe helpful or maybe not so links to more discussions...

Michelle A.- To UV or not to UV
here

Michelle A.- Polarizing Filters
here -under Features

Polarizing filter question
here

Message edited on: 09/12/2005 16:46

Attached Link: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=NavBar&A=FetchChildren&Q=&ci=75

There are also more creative filters out there on the market. Like star filters, rainbow filters etc. Where did you buy your camera? That is usually where I buy filters for my lenses. You also might try the site for your manufacturer, ie: if you had a Sony, go to www.Sony.com or if you had a Nikon maybe www.Nikon.com? I am not sure what is available for the prosumer digitals, but I do know they make them.

I personally have sky filters on all of my lenses for protection against breakage, I would rather lose a $15 filter then a $500 lens, they don't guarantee against breakage, but if the camera is dropped and it lands on the edge of the lens you might lose the filter and not the lens. They also help keep dirt off of the actual lens, so you just clean the filter. I buy them whenever I buy a new lens.

Hope that helps some!
Oops sorry forgot the link!

Brenda :)

Message edited on: 09/12/2005 16:51

Thank you Cindy. Ill look into those as well. Thank you as well Brenda. That looks like a good place to get filters, gonna have a look at it right away. You are all so helpful.....YAAAAY FOR ALL OF YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!

*IR-filter (any particular brand you suggest?) Sorry cant help on this one, maybe Michelle or Shelia can help * Skylight-filter (or UV...which one do you prefer?) UV is better at cutting haze than a skylight (yes even with digital) and will also protect the lens, personally I seldom use one unless at altitude, or particularly hazy, either way ie wont cut through very bad haze * Close up-filter (+1, +2, +3 or +4....whats the difference?) Each number is a stronger magnification, for close up, similar effect to a macro lens, but not true macro * ND4 or ND8-filter to get greater shutter-control.... Cuts down the amount of light entering through the lens to get desired aperture/shutter speed/prevent over exposure. Other options Polarizer: Will do the same as a ND filter to some degree plus it will increase colour saturation and darken blue sky (little or no colour saturation effect on overcast sky) See Michelles article in the recourse centre. ND graduated filter: (ND grad 2.4 or 8) Will help to prevent over exposure of the sky in there is a fair difference of brightness between land and sky in a landscape or similar scene. (this is usually a cokin style filter and can be slid up or down to have the graduation on horizon of your composition) What I have and IMO is a very good range for most things. UV (for haze) has a slight warming effect) Hoya ND Grad 4 and 8 (For landscapes) Cokin ND 4 (mostly for slow shutter on water scenes) Cokin Polarizer (Most used filter for landscapes and can also take the ND grad on the front of it. Hoya http://www.cokin.com/ More filter info http://www.2filter.com/faq/filterfaq.html Simon

I got one more piece of info. which maybe useful to you.

Before investing in an IR filter see if your camera is suitable (not all are) and the sensor is sensitive to IR light.

To do this: In a completely darkened room get your TV remote control and point it straight at the lens, set your camera to longest shutter setting and take a pic of the remote. While doing this press the volume control on the remote.

If the sensor is sensitive to IR light you will get a spot of light from the remotes IR led, if not you will have a black image.

Message edited on: 09/12/2005 17:18

THANK YOU SIMON!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wow, i need to bookmark this thread. So much valuable information already. YOU GUYS RULEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!! In sweden you would think our king would rule, but hes so pathetic, the government do all the "ruling"...dont see the point of monarchy anymore....oooops...hows that for random ramble. Sorry.

Ooooh, we crossed replies i think. Now that is also a very useful piece of information Richard. Thank you very much!!!

Attached Link: http://dpfwiw.com/filters.htm

Loads of useful links and information in this thread :) When testing for IR senistivity the brighter the spot the better. If you can get a spot on a faster shutter even better, but try 2 or 3 secs first see what happens. I understand that some cameras have filters on the sensor that block IR light.

I use a Nikon D70 and use a UV on every lens...this is for protection as far as I am concerned and keeps the main lens clean. If I don't have a lens cloth it is easier to gently wipe the uv filter and be clean again without worry about the main lens. Other than that, I have not noticed any problems with using the uv.

I also got a circular polarizer and find this to be very beneficial in certain situations. My mistake was piling it up on top of the uv, making a stack that had more vigneting than I would like.

I am considering a graduated filter to block highlights from blowing an image but must consider the mount for this. That is likely my next purchase but thinking about it and directons in my photography.

As for any sort of magifier "filter", I have not used but would certainly prefer the lens to do the work without an add-on which might degrade performance. As it is, I need all the performance I can muster! LOL Tom.

Let us know what you get to using and how it works for you, ok?

Attached Link: http://www.popphoto.com/article.asp?section_id=3&article_id=1050&page_number=1

Just to clarify the point of stacking filters, putting a screw mount filter onto a screw mount polarizer or visa versa, in not recommended and was discussed in Toms thread. However using the Cokin series filter on top of a screw mount filter can be OK as the mount is different and generally much wider than the lens, I have done this with a 17-40mm @ 17mm, you may get some vignetting, but that is a characteristic of an ultra wide lens and not caused by stacking filters. Complicated in it lol "My Opinion only"

Ok, I have been looking at the Cokin system on the net. Are we talking big bucks here? Are we talking about shots with time to set-up primarily? The system seems great, not having used it. The graduated filters look like something I could use and the Cokin mount is the way to go with that. Is this system worth the investment for a photographer who can't afford the pro lenses in the first place? I do get the impression that a Cokin mount will work well with various mm size lenses. That is a plus. Just the uv filter for my 300mm was quite bit due to the 82mm size. Tom

Tom The Cokin Mount ccme in two main sizes: A series (for lenses with a filter thread of 36-62mm) P Series (for lenses with a filter thread of 48-82mm) There are also x pro and z pro series, no need to mention theme here. The P series will probably cover all the more common lenses. Cost: Not too bad, basic set up approx 20-30 GBP so probably about the same in USD?! What you must have is the filter holder and a lens adapter in the diameter of the lens. The filters are all sold separately and the cost depends on the type of filter, in the same way the screw in filters do. There are some starter sets available which include the filter holder and two or three filters, the lens adapter will depend on the lens thread diameter. For example if your lens has a 58mm thread then you need the 58mm adapter, the lens adapters are interchangeable so if you have 3 lenses, say, 58mm a 67mm and a 77mm you need three corresponding lens adapters, but the lens holder and filters will fit them all when you change the lens adapter ring. OMG hope that all makes sense. Anyway it is a very versatile system that you can add to as you need/want to. Yes it does take a bit more tome to set up a shot using this system; I guess that is a pros and cons issue. IMO worth the effort. Simon

Just as a foot note there is over (well I dont actually know) lots and lots of filters. They are a plastic resin based filter so care in needed handling them. As Darth Vader may have said, I can feel a sense! "That this thread will be printed" May the Force be with you lol

printed? why, of course young lostpatrol one.

Ok, the resin component of Cokin filters: If this is like the plastics used in eyeglasses(what is the Brit word for those things? LOL), then optical properties are fine. I suspect that optical properties of Cokin are fine, since such would not sell otherwise. ? Just how delicate are these filters? The mounts and accessories seem reasonable in price. Other brands are out there with apparently similar systems. Do you recommend a system rather than a brand? Hummmm...IM is ok for that answer. As for gradient filters, is there one that might be the most useful to start? I suspect in my work the gradient(gray?) would be best. I show my ignorance here. Peerhaps Zacko and all of us may benefit from the experience of others. Great thread, Zacko, btw.

yep! noted to put on the link/tutorial page.. :]

Tom I will answer here as it will help everyone and it is sort of on topic, even though a little hijacked lol In sure Zacko wont mind. Eyes glasses! Um probably just Glasses or specks (as in spectacles) anyway I understood. They are pretty durable, I have never ruined one, they dont have an outer frame as such so dropping them on a hard surface (pavement sidewalk lol thats 1-1) isnt a great idea. Not to complicate things further some on the Cokin filters, such as a polarizer are round, and do have an outer frame so that they can be turned in the holder. The Cokin system comes with a book that lists all the filters and their use. At least it does here, so assume that would be she same there. The system is a good one, I cant honestly say if other brands are equal as I have not used them, but I would think that they are at least very close to Cokin or they wouldnt be there long. IMO the best starter filter would be Neutral Density (ND) graduated, being colour neutral, even thought they appear to be grey they dont effect the colours in the scene. Of the different variants I would think ND grad 4. This will of course depend to some extent on the light differences in the climate that you live in, only you can judge that. However if the difference in light is slight and ND grad 2 may be enough if the difference is quite harsh you may need ND grad 8. 4 being the middle ground and is the one that I use the most. Whilst you have my attention you can also get a hard edge ND grad, the difference being that as its name suggests the transition from the light part of the filter to the dark is very small where as a normal ND grad the transition cover about a third of the filter. A hard edge filter is more useful for a scene that has a difference between shadow and highlight is along a defined line such as the horizon across water/ocean, for example shooting a sunset out to sea would be a good use for a hard edge filter. OK its 3:50 AM here, damn time difference lol LP over and out.

Re: Cokin Filters

My experience has been that the P series graduated grey (I have the P120 & P121S) produce a magenta colour cast.
My understanding is that is why Cokin call them 'graduated grey' not 'neutral density' filters. It is not their quirky nature, it is a fact the filters are not neutral in colour.
This is not the same for their X or Z series filters which are made of C39 organic glass, not the resin used in the A & P series.
Since my discovery that my skies had a magenta glow when I used these filters, I have found out it is a common problem associated with them, people live with it and postwork it out. However there are alternative makes about that fit in the Cokin holder and are neutral so shopping around is a good idea.
IMHO you get what you pay for with filters. Cokin's X & Z series are good, so are many of the other makes out there who produce true ND filters. I have learned putting a bit of plastic in front of even my humble camera does not give the same result as getting the right tool for the job.

Message edited on: 09/13/2005 00:02

WOOOOOW!!! This thread has really exploded while i was sleeping!!! Sooo much useful information!!!!! Better read it all again. THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!! YAAAAY!!!!

Zacko, thank for starting this thread. The info is great.

Youre telling me? Im bookmarking this thread, lol.

Message edited on: 09/13/2005 07:15

Attached Link: http://www.sturm.org/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=22&mode=thread

You mentioned IR filters so I looked in my camera's manual about it and it plainly said I can't do IR with my camera. That seems kind of weird because my camera is film.

Richard

Yes the Cokin filters are grey but do specify ND? Which to my mind means colourless. So I stand corrected.

I have never had any issues with a magenta cast though, I wonder if certain conditions cause that to happen!

EDIT: I have had some images with a magenta cast in the sky in some lighting conditions (usually over cast) both with and without the grad filter, so this is maybe an issue with sensor rather than the filter. What to you think? Sorry a bit off topic but hey it happens!

Message edited on: 09/13/2005 11:54

Maybe: different conditions, different cameras and different styles of use. I can only say what I find on my camera the way I use them.

It occured to me, this is purely conjecture from observing others, that some people push the filter down a long way so the gradient is covering the foreground and fades all the way through the whole pic (more or less). If they do this and they did get a colour cast it would not be noticed as much because they probably correct it in setting a white balance and don't even notice. Then a lot of people use them on sunrise/set shots and you will probably not notice it there either.

But come to Essex which is flat as far as the eye can see with big skies and put one on when there are white fluffy clouds on a blue sky and I get magenta tinted clouds. Adjusting the white balance/Tint then upsets the colours in the foreground, so it is a right pain.

EDIT: Don't think so with mine Simon because it is most noticeable in the conditions above. I stay indoors when it looks like rain :D

Message edited on: 09/13/2005 12:13

Is anyone familiar with Soligor-filters??? Thats the brand i usually come across whenever im looking here at swedish stores. They are cheaper than Hoya and Cokin, thats for sure.

Great thread Andreas,since I know absolutely nothing about any of this!You did us all a service! And here I was,thinking I could just run out and buy an IR filter...yeesh!

No experience of those Andreas - have heard of their lenses but that about it.

Ha ha Now that is interesting and a few points worthy of note, I have been to Essex and understand what you mean, I am from southern Hampshire which is much the same. Here is the exact opposite, almost nothing is flat for more that a few hundred yards, I live in a valley with the Pentland hills as a backdrop. Anyway back on topic a little. Richards point about how you use the filter is a good one and is something I was going to mention last night but it was too late and I was shattered. Using a grad filter in IMO it is important to meter the scene without the filter, so that the land is correctly exposed and the white balance (if using digital) is correct. Once that is done the grad filter should be inserted in the holder and pushed down until the point of graduation starts where land meets sky. This is approximate it is not always possible to get is exact depending on the terrain. Doing it this way reduces the light from the bright sky whilst not affecting the land which is mostly midtone and shadow. Funny that something so simple is so hard to explain, I do this all with very little effort, as I do it so often it just a matter of working habit. I thing also it would be prudent to mention that there are many variables to using filters, therefore there is a certain amount if trial and error needed. Excellent thread, I have leant a fair bit as well as offer my opinion, a credit to this forum and its members. Simon

Attached Link: https://secure.soligor.com/

OOOOH!!! Thank you Simon!!! I will definitly have a look at that site before i place my order. AWWWWW!!!! I cant belive how incredibly nice and helpful you all are!!! You even googled for me...AWWWW!!!! I do belive i have decided on some filters. I will post my decision here before i press the "Buy-button" though. This has got to be the most active thread i ever posted, LOL.

Okay, so this is what im leaning towards buying: Hoya IR-filter 58mm (072) Soligor Skylightfilter 58mm Soligor NDx4 58mm Hoya Polarization cirk 58mm HMC Hoya close-up +3 58mm HMC At a total of 145 USD....a rather good price dont you think? Not sure if i should go for a UV-filter instead of the skylight-filter. Not a difference money-wise. So what do you think people??? Am i closing a good deal or what?

I prefer UV to skylight as I feel that it is better at cutting out atmospheric haze (my opinion) 145 USD seems to be a pretty good deal for all that lot to me. Simon

Well that does it then...changing to UV now. #;o)

Quick phone the Guinness book of records! lol Might get an entry for the worlds best forum thread he he!!

Yep polarizers are good Great choice Andreas let us know when you make shots with them .

LOL!!! Its definitly one of the longer forum threads at least. #:O) I just hit the "Buy-button" and i will have the filters in a few weeks....didnt have them in stock go figure. Ill keep ya posted!!!! Thanks alot for all your help, sure answered quite a few questions.