Thu, Nov 7, 2:24 PM CST

Renderosity Forums / Photography



Welcome to the Photography Forum

Forum Moderators: wheatpenny, Deenamic Forum Coordinators: Anim8dtoon

Photography F.A.Q (Last Updated: 2024 Nov 01 10:53 pm)



Subject: Some help with long exposure water shots


Melen ( ) posted Fri, 31 March 2006 at 6:12 AM · edited Tue, 30 July 2024 at 4:02 AM

I have a relatively cheap camera, a Canon A80. Before I started reading up on things I was pretty happy with it. I think the increase in knowledge has actually temporarily hurt me :) At any rate, I'd love to take some long exposure shots of some of the local waterfalls. Unfortunately, I think I may be "stuck" and wanted to ask if anyone knew what I was doing wrong. From my reading I understand that the "higher" the fstop, the smaller the aperture (the less light), and combined with the shutter speed this determines exposure. COnsequently, if you leave the shutter open longer, I'm understanding that you have to compensate with a higher fstop. The Canon A80's highest fstop is 8. The picture I recently posted (my second entry for the challenge) was taken where there was a quite a bit of natural light. I had my fstop at 8 and I really wanted a longer exposure. But anything over 1/20 for shutter speed made the entire picture horribly over exposed. So now that I've rambled, my question is... Am I stuck with not being able to take these kinds of shots because the A80 only goes up to 8 for the fstop? Or am I completely missing something crucial here? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Onslow ( ) posted Fri, 31 March 2006 at 6:29 AM · edited Fri, 31 March 2006 at 6:30 AM

To get the shot you are looking for a filter is used to reduce the light input. This goes for any camera, F8 on a small lens is only a pin hole, same as f22 on a larger lens, so no problem with your cam only doing F8.

Set your ISO manually to as low as it goes - less sensitive to light.
I don't know the camera so first thing to check is does it have a built in ND filter? Some Canon cameras do, find it in the menu or manual. Use this to reduce light it could be all you need.
Alternative is a separate filter that either screws onto the front or has some kind of adaptor so that you can fit it. There are methods of fitting them to all cameras though you may have to search for it.
The filter you need will reduce light input.
A polarising filter reduces light by 2 stops or there are neutral density (ND) filters that reduce it by more if needed. They will say when you look at them how many stops lower you will get by fitting the filter.
Shots of water falls etc are usually best taken on overcast days so the range of light from the brightest to the darkest is at its least.
Hope this helps
Richard.

Message edited on: 03/31/2006 06:30

And every one said, 'If we only live,
We too will go to sea in a Sieve,---
To the hills of the Chankly Bore!'
Far and few, far and few, Are the lands where the Jumblies live;
Their heads are green, and their hands are blue, And they went to sea in a Sieve.

Edward Lear
http://www.nonsenselit.org/Lear/ns/jumblies.html


LostPatrol ( ) posted Fri, 31 March 2006 at 6:31 AM

Ok I an not familiar with your camera, (I will try to get a look at the spec sheet later) There are a few things toy can try even with f8. Yes you are right high f number = smaller aperture. 1. Doing the water shots in low light, early morning or late afternoon/early evening when the light is dropping off will help. 2. Getting a polarizer or Neutral density filter for your camera (if available) will reduce the light through the lens. The shutter speed you need is somewhere between sec-4 sec depending on the velocity of the water flow, if the wafer flow is very fast even 1/15 may be slow enough.

The Truth is Out There


Misha883 ( ) posted Fri, 31 March 2006 at 8:36 AM

There's been some very nice shots of waterfalls posted over the last year in LWITG. [http://www.renderosity.com/viewed.ez?galleryid=1185086]. I can't remember all the photographers' names, so hopefully they will jump in here with comments. Working on an overcast day seems to be the real key trick to prevent the water from washing out. Then, as indicated, use a low ISO value, and maybe a filter, to allow increasing the exposure time. Many of the digital cameras do not allow long exposures. Can always put the camera on a tripod and take several frames, then combine them with software.


LostPatrol ( ) posted Fri, 31 March 2006 at 9:05 AM

The A80 has a good selection of shooting modes Av, Tv, M etc. "15 1/2000 sec. 1.3 sec. or slower shutter speeds are available in Shutter-priority (Tv) mode or Manual (M) mode. Slow shutter speeds of 1.3 sec. or slower operate with noise reduction." From Steves Digicams. I was not aware as Richard Pointed out that f8 equates to f22 on a larger lens (learn something everyday) Good link from Misha I would agree that shooting on an overcast day is a good way to get a slower shutter, I however prefer early/late in the day (my preference and depending on the mood you want to convey) 1. Because you can get some lovely warm colours in any foliage. 2. Because on overcast days there is little colour saturation. Its all a matter of opinion and would recommend that you try as many of the methods that you learn as possible.

The Truth is Out There


Melen ( ) posted Fri, 31 March 2006 at 9:37 AM

Thank you all for the suggestions. This is great information, and I very much appreciate it :) I think I'll try more towards the end of the day my next go around and see if that helps... I've also been looking at bugeyedigital.com at their Canon A80 adapters and filters. I know I can get a polarizing filter (with adapter) and I believe a ND filter also. I checked my camera, it has a "Neutral" mode, but I'm thinking that's not the same thing. Thanks again everyone!


Onslow ( ) posted Fri, 31 March 2006 at 9:48 AM · edited Fri, 31 March 2006 at 9:52 AM

I'm not exactly saying they equate photographically, rather that it would not be possible to have a smaller aperture because their physical size equates.
Good point misha a tripod [or somewhere to rest the camera] is essential if you do use a long shutter speed.

Message edited on: 03/31/2006 09:52

And every one said, 'If we only live,
We too will go to sea in a Sieve,---
To the hills of the Chankly Bore!'
Far and few, far and few, Are the lands where the Jumblies live;
Their heads are green, and their hands are blue, And they went to sea in a Sieve.

Edward Lear
http://www.nonsenselit.org/Lear/ns/jumblies.html


danob ( ) posted Fri, 31 March 2006 at 9:52 AM

I cannot offer much better advice than what you have been given esp with regard to the use of a ND filter and tripod.. You will find on your Camera you have a slow shutter speed mode which was designed to capture the very effect you are after if used with the above aids Iam sure you will get the results you want

Danny O'Byrne  http://www.digitalartzone.co.uk/

"All the technique in the world doesn't compensate for the inability to notice" Eliott Erwitt


TwoPynts ( ) posted Fri, 31 March 2006 at 10:27 AM

Looks like everyone else has you covered...some good advice there. Happy shooting Lenny.

Kort Kramer - Kramer Kreations


Privacy Notice

This site uses cookies to deliver the best experience. Our own cookies make user accounts and other features possible. Third-party cookies are used to display relevant ads and to analyze how Renderosity is used. By using our site, you acknowledge that you have read and understood our Terms of Service, including our Cookie Policy and our Privacy Policy.