Forum Moderators: wheatpenny Forum Coordinators: Anim8dtoon
Photography F.A.Q (Last Updated: 2024 Nov 13 3:04 pm)
Oh My.... That is not going to be easy but do-able. Looks like a full straight on flash. Changing the background might be a good idea but not easy on this picture around the back of the head. Also the jumper will require 'toning' down a bit and the flash bounce back on the face.
Good luck, sorry but I have not time a the moment to play with it, but I'm sure others will with their potato-shop skills.
Steve
Thanks for the suggestion. I like your idea about re-scanning/cropping tighter around the face. It probably would look better cropped around the face. It does look like he got hit with a pretty bright flash. I will probably try to lighten up some of the bright areas with the burn tool.
You are right about it not being easy around the back of his head because it pretty much blends into the background. I already tried selecting with the magnetic lasso and had some problems with that part.
ok.. gave it whirl.. would go with a tighter crop too..
less shirt to deal with... plus the Epsom photo print logo is showing through..
& added a bit to the top as it's too tight there
added a blobbed whirl background with a gaussian blur..
do work large.. feather your selection & smooth the edges
then flattened & converted to a bluish tint b/w
& agree with the highest quality scan possible as you have some banding here
..maybe the hairline will show better too.. i think i gave him a bit more.. lol..
& remember to match the part of the glasses that shows through with your backgd
I was gonna have a go at this, but I believe Cyn has totally nailed this already, and I don’t know what a bobbed whirl is either!
If I was doing this sort of shot in a studio I would choose a background similar to what Cyn has done here anyway. I might be inclined to leave it in colour and do one of each, I still believe that there is no real substitute for B&W film in some respects.
As Steve said this isn’t an easy photo to fix, and I agree that scanning a min of 600dpi , 1200 even better, best still scan the negative if you can. The real issue here is that prints don’t scan well compared to negative or slide. (IMO of course)
Either way it is always better and easier to work on large files
They wouldn’t have made the cane if you weren’t meant to break the rules
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Hello...My friend gave me a couple pictures of his Uncle and Dad that he wants me to scan, fix up, and print for framing to hang on his wall. Both have passed away and I want to make the best prints. Of course I would want to make the best prints possible regardless... Anyways, in this picture of his Uncle we were thinking of replacing the background with something else like a nice scenery or perhaps something madeup in Photoshop like some difference clouds?, and maybe converting it to black and white. I thought I'd post the picture here and ask for suggestions because I could use some...please :-) . And if you feel like it please manipulate this photo.-
Have a good day..-Jeff
p.s. I am aware that 300 dpi is optimal print resolution in most cases...but what about scanning? I scanned these photos in at 300 dpi. This makes for about an 18 MB tif file for the initial scan...I am thinking this should be more than sufficiant for an 8-10 print. Or should I scan at a higher dpi...