I have an old photo from a friend who would like a copy made. The photo dates back to WW1 and the paper has a silvery sheen to it in some areas. I want to correct these after scanning the photo but am unsure how to do it.

I would try a search for "Photo restoration tutorial". You will get heaps of tips & tricks from the guys and girls here. But a visual tut might be handy.

Michael.

Thanks I will try that search

Can post the prewiev of the photo. It would be much easyer to reply :)

Tihomir

Most of the tutorials I found on the internet were no use. But after I applied calculations to the photo the silvery area dramaticly improved. Sorry I dont have the picture to post it is on a work station.

Bookmarking this - gonna wait until you have an image to post. See if you can bring it to that wokstation - or post it when you get home tonight, and we'll (forum members) be a lot more precise in any advice we can give.
-Lew ;-)

My only worry is that the picture will be to dark after it is printed. But if so I can mess with the brightness contrast.

What "calculations" did you apply? Levels? Curves? Brightness/Contrast?

Try this:
1 - Create and Adjustment layer above the base layer of Levels or Curves - your tool of preference.
2 - Create another one above it - Hue/Saturation and slide Sat down to 0 - make it B&W.
3 - Creat a new Layer right above the base image - change the mode to Soft Light.
4 - Hit the letter D to make your colors default B&W.
5 - Get a soft brush and lowe the opacity to 30%.
6 - Paint black over the circled areas - this is dodging and burning without the actual Dodge&Burn tools (which completely bite IMO). Paint sparingly and build up density - this is so you don't make it too dark too quickly.
7 - Aso paint over some of the lighter areas like their faces (and maybe portions of the lighter sides of their clothing as well) - to darken them down a bit as they'll blow out in print.

You don't have to stick with only 1 Soft Light layer - you can have several to build things further - either lighter or darker, or to alter small portions in a mass painted area. Did that make sense?

The reason to go through all of this is so that in making all these changes you're not doing anything to the actual image itself. If you look at what you've done so far, realize you haven't changed the base image YET. This is deliberate - if you later decide you want to change somethig BACK, you now can - if you've changed the base image at all, you can't.

Hope this helps-
-Lew ;-)

Before converting to CMYK. Check and corect bad areas. Enable View - Gamut warning to see which areas of the image will be afected with conversion. Next make new H/S adjustment layer and drag saturation slider to the left and grey color should disapear. If needed go trough each channel and drag the hue and saturation sliders. In most cases you`ll need to fix just master :)

Tihomir

scanning silver is extremly tricky because it relects light back into the scanner - some people have scanned glitter and had troubles - - i've yet to be told how to input that into photshop. i wonder if taking a photo of the photo would work, in the right lighting conditions....

I have foundpaint duabs and gausian filter on a top layer to remove the noise and add some artisitc flare to the piece without distroying the intent of reproduction then mask the result and allow the shaper requirment to peak through, like faces and buttons. You do this gently with a soft brush and a mask.