So I have been playing around trying to get a good capture of the moon, does anyone have any tips they would like to share?

One of many I got tonight

I used 1D Mk2
EF 500+ 1x4 ext
ISO 200
f22
1/80th
Spot Metered
Manual exp and focus
Mirror lock up
Tripod
Remote release

Jim

thanks alot I am going to have to try that method tonight, all but hte remote release, but a 3sec timer should work.

Dont forget the mirror lock up to further stop cam shake!...these settings worked for my setup.

As per Jim said:  use all you can to stop any vibrations spoiling the shot.  The timer delay should work just as well as a remote as long as you are gentle on the shutter so as not to disturb the camera. 

I remember the exposure as a reciprocal of the ISO speed used. This works at F11 which is the point of optimum sharpness for most dslr cameras.

eg:     ISO 100 , 1/100th , F11.  

Atmospheric conditions can and will alter the exposure, the above is a good starting point for a clear night.

Events like last nights eclipse call for a totally different exposure - the image in my gallery was ISO 100,  2 secs , F8.  This was found by experimentation - altering exposure until I got a result I was happy with.

If you shoot the images in Jpeg set the white balance to daylight, if shooting RAW don't worry, do it in the RAW converter. This is particularly important if you are capturing events like the harvest moon etc and want to show the true colours.
 
Apart from that all you need is Jim's long lens or you will have to severely crop the image.  Mine is a cropped image. 

Moon of day

Make=NIKON CORPORATION
Model=NIKON D50
Orientation=Normal
Exposure Time=10/6400 sec
FNumber=F6,3
Exposure Bias Value=0/6
Max Aperture Value=F5,0
Metering Mode=MultiSegment
Flash=Off, surpressed
Focal Length=300,00 mm
ISOSpeed=0, 200
Quality=FINE
White Balance=AUTO
Image Sharpening=AUTO
Focus Mode=AF-A
White Bias Value=0
Image Adjustment=AUTO
Lens Information=75,0-300,0(mm)  F4,5-F5,6
Color Mode=Mode 3 (sRGB): higher saturation
Hue Adjustment=0
Noise Reduction=OFF
Maker Note=Nikon
Sub Sec Time=80
Sub Sec Time Original=80
Sub Sec Time Digitized=80

Moon on night

Make=NIKON CORPORATION
Model=NIKON D50
Orientation=Normal
XResolution=300,00
YResolution=300,00
YCb Cr Positioning=Co-sited
Exposure Time=10/400 sec
FNumber=F16,0
Exposure Program=Aperture priority
Compressed Bits Per Pixel=4/1
Exposure Bias Value=-30/6
Max Aperture Value=F5,0
Metering Mode=MultiSegment
Flash=Off
Focal Length=300,00 mm
ISOSpeed=0, 800
Quality=FINE
White Balance=SHADE
Image Sharpening=AUTO
Focus Mode=AF-A
Flash Setting=SLOW
White Bias Value=0
Image Adjustment=AUTO
Lens Information=75,0-300,0(mm)  F4,5-F5,6
Color Mode=Mode 3 (sRGB): higher saturation
Hue Adjustment=0
Noise Reduction=OFF
Maker Note=Nikon
Sub Sec Time=60
Sub Sec Time Original=60
Sub Sec Time Digitized=60

Is more complicat to take the moon when you live in the city, fro the noise and lighting on it...

The moon is one of my favorite motives. It has his difficulty. On the one hand movement is in contínu, with what the speed of obstruction cannot be very low; for other, you have not great light (in not very nearby planes), for what you have to work with the diaphragm very open; also, the quantity of light depends on the phase in which he is...You can do is to take the photos when the moon is closer to the horizon, because it has major size and, sometimes, certain orange tones that give him very much delight delight The moon gives a lot of game in assemblies. If you play with double exhibition you can promote his reflection in a lake, or in the sea for example...

With my Nikon D50 I use normaly the chamber in manual approach and to the infinite, punctual measurement (to the moon), diaphragm to 8.0 and speed of obstruction approximately in 1/125, but this one can change if you take in the city or other place or country.

I tested one day this picture with a  Cámara Canon 300D  
Model=Canon EOS 300D DIGITAL
Orientation=Normal
Exposure Time=1/160 sec
FNumber=F9,0
ISOSpeed Ratings=400
Compressed Bits Per Pixel=3/1
Shutter Speed Value=0,0062 sec (1/160)
Aperture Value=F6,3
Exposure Bias Value=0/3
Max Aperture Value=F5,0
Metering Mode=Average
Flash=Off
Focal Length=300,00 mm
Flash Pix Version=0100
Color Space=sRGB
Focal Plane XResolution=3072000/892
Focal Plane YResolution=2048000/595
Focal Plane Resolution Unit=Inch
Sensing Method=OneChipColorArea
Exposure Mode=Manual
White Balance=Auto
Scene Capture Type=Standard
Exif Offset=352
Focal Lengthin35mm Film=2073,53

yup - what everyone else said ;)

Nice shot Jimbo, silky smooth! And yours too Valou, esp that last one. I am not one to offer advice, as can be seen from my poor showing in the other moon thread. ;'P

Kort, I sold my Canon 2x extender (f8 @ 1000mm on 500)...such a bitch to work with!...so made do with the 1x4 ext (f5.6 @ 700mm on the 500)...no regrets though :)

Those are some great moon images!
Never tried it myself, but now I'm curious.
-Lew ;-)

I'd love to be able to hook my camera up to my telescope...but don't think I have the right gear. Whatever you did Jimbo, it looks great.

Kort...you need a T- ring and a T-mount adapter  made for Olympus then you will be able to connect your camera to the telescope. What telescope you have?

seeya  Tunde

You know, I am not sure. I never even set up the drive mechanism to track the celetial bodies. It did not have MAC software so could not hook it up to my computer. Also, we have very light poluted skies where I live so viewing conditions are not optimal. I've used it to view Saturn and the Moon and Mars...that's about it.

Kort,  the secret, imo,  is a sturdy tripod, and when time is on your side...is mirror lock up (most dslr's should have this facilty), and cable release (or use self timer!)..and I used spot metering with manual settings.

ps...the A3 print is ....wonderful :)

I sold the 2x extender as f8 is not good! (would have gave me 1000mm though!)
plus you loose a few more stops over the 1x4 which is what I used on the 500mm @ 700mm (f5.6) on this shot.